Locks for Lipped Drawers

[Carl Eyman]

I have four drawers under construction fitted with 1/2 mortise locks. The design of the locks puts the bolt within about 1/16" of the drawer lip. Like an idiot I didn't think of this when choosing the hardware. My problem is this puts the mortise for the strike plate awfully close to the front edge of the drawer divider (the horizontal piece that goes from side to side of the case and separates the drawers).

One solution is to cut a mortise in the divider that comes out the edge. A rabbet so to speak. Then put a thin brass strike plate on the face of the divider. By keeping the height down to 3/8" it is hidden behind the lip pretty well.

Who has a better solution? If I'd chosen a face mounted lock it would have put the bolt further in and I'd have had no problem.

[Dave Richards]

Carl, is there any chance the design of the piece would allow for a little bit of trim to be added to the dividers? Or how bad would it be to redo the drawer fronts?

[Carl Eyman]

Dave, I guess I could start over with the drawers, but the drawer fronts are veneered with veneer from the same flitch so they all have the same grain pattern and are otherwise complete ( drawers all glued up). As to the application of a molding in the strike plate area, that is an option, but I can't visualize how it would help. One would have to leave it high enough so the drawer lip has clearance to get under it. In that case the lock bolt wouldn't be long enough to reach it. Am I misreading your suggestion? Thanks for responding.

[Dave Richards]

Carl, you probably aren't misreading my post. I was thinking of inset drawers. I gather yours aren't?

I suppose the key hole is already cut, too. Is there any chance of removing the lock, filling the lock rebate and then installing surface mount locks? Could you use the existing key hole?

The top edge of the drawer face could be rabbetted to accept a filler piece so you don't have a little rectangular filler piece showing.

Another idea that just popped into my head is to fill the lock rebate as above and then make a holder for the existing lock that would mount on the inside of the drawer. I could zip out a sketch if that would help.

[Carl Eyman]

Thanks for that thought. I've mocked up the brass strip striker plate, and looking at the work involved in remounting the locks and the asthetics of having them exposed inside the drawers, I'm inclined to bite the bullet of having a piece of brass on the drawer dividers. particularly since it'll be hidden when the drawer is closed. The only real good solution is have inset drawers. I'll know next time. Only there probably won't be a next time. This is probably the last major piece I'll ever make. Getting too old. Problems like this one hasten the process.

[Dave Richards]

Aw, Carl. This'll just toughen you up more for the next one. ;)

Don't forget to make your offering to appease the Picture Police. :D

[Rob Millard]

Carl,

Every piece of period furniture I have seen, has only a mortise for the lock bolt and no strike plate, so maybe you don't have a problem.
Rob Millard