Travisher design

[chuck van dyck]

Hey all

So I've fallen hard for the chair thing, thus I figured it was time to get a travisher. That eventually lead me down the path of building one. I went with the blade Elia sells, and it seems very nice. I do wish the ends with the screw holes were recessed back because as is it seems like a real recipe for chips jamming, but I can take care of that with a belt grinder.

After a few attempts that I wasn't happy with I've decided to attach the sole after roughing out the body, then shape the whole thing. This got me thinking, what if I put some threaded inserts into the body and slot the sole where it mates with the body so it is adjustable. This would accomplish two things. Make the depth of cut adjustable while also getting rid of the possibility of a worn out sole. I don't wanna add a brass sole. I like the wood on wood vibe.

Those of you who have made one a few of these, any reason you can think of to not make the sole adjustable? Its kind of a no lose situation because if it doesn't work I can just glue it on and shape from there, but I won't be able to work on this for a few days and would love to know other's thoughts before I get back into it. Not trying to recreate the wheel here, just thinkin.

Thanks for lookin!


489196

[Derek Cohen]

Chuck, I've made a couple. Fixed bases with different angles ...

https://i.postimg.cc/WzSCdgtj/5a.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/W3LQCsQR/2a.jpg

The depth of cut is determined by a combination of the design of the sole and where you place pressure.

The toe should taper away about 2-3 degrees. This allows the sole to rock forward and back. Forward pressure deepens the cut, while rocking back lightens it.

You could probably get away with just one travisher, such as the one in front. Think of this as a jack plane and the one at the rear as a smoother.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

A bit more ...

Making the blade (from O1 steel) ...

https://i.postimg.cc/6qsFZ1gH/3_Curving-jig.jpg

https://i.postimg.cc/J7Jf8MHS/4_Compressing-curve.jpg

Springback ...

https://i.postimg.cc/sDrtDqpx/5_Springback.jpg

Heat-treated, and cleaned up ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Twb4TJ1n/9_Finished-blade.jpg


The back of the blade has a (natural) shallow, which makes it easy to flatten the back of the edge. Then simply hollow grind and hone.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bryan Lee]

Very nice, Derek.

[chuck van dyck]

Chuck, I've made a couple. Fixed bases with different angles ...

https://i.postimg.cc/WzSCdgtj/5a.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/W3LQCsQR/2a.jpg

The depth of cut is determined by a combination of the design of the sole and where you place pressure.

The toe should taper away about 2-3 degrees. This allows the sole to rock forward and back. Forward pressure deepens the cut, while rocking back lightens it.

You could probably get away with just one travisher, such as the one in front. Think of this as a jack plane and the one at the rear as a smoother.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek, thanks for the reply and apologies for my delay. Very handsome work!
I get what you are saying regarding depth of cut. I've made a few since my op and I'm ready to take the advice of many and use the brass sole. In a way I guess the brass sole is kinda adjustable as you could always shim it with some paper. Earlier today cut a piece of 1/8" brass down to 5x1 and was looking forward to seeing if I can get something performing well, but now I'm seeing 1" is much too long of a sole. I'll rip it down to 1/2" tomorrow. Previous incarnations worked, but not well. Walnut edge grain turns out to be pretty fickle to tune as a plane sole. And thanks for the tip on making the blade. I think I'll give that a shot if I find need more than one. I've never seen much less used a travisher, so building one from photos is interesting.

[chuck van dyck]

Would also just like to add I found your blog regarding the build, it is quite helpful.