s l o w glue

[John Tarro]

Good morning folks.

A number of months ago I had seen an article reviewing a number of wood glues and their properties. I don't remember if it was in a periodical or if it was in this forum.

I have usually used yellow glue with GREAT results. This time I need a glue with a longer working time. I am working with pre-finished pieces so squeze-out needs to be avoided.

What do you folks know of that will give me as much as a true 20 to 30 min. working time and still have really good bonding properties. The finished joints will be under significant stress.

Thanks for the help!

OH . . there was a thread a while ago from someone who had bought an Incra miter gauge (1000 SE). The discussion touched on adjusting to 90 the fence and using shims between the metal support bracket and the aluminum fence. NOT NECESSARY . . the three set screws behind the metal bracket can be loostened, the fence adjusted and the screws re-set. Works great. I have had the fence for about a year and have found it better than touted. It is stable, rigid, and makes cuts perfectly repeatable.

[Dave Richards]

Epoxy would be a good choice. With a slow hardener and normal room temperature or lower, you'll have plenty of pot life and open time. You will also get lots of strength. The epoxy can be mixed straight or with fillers added for gap filling. Some fillers such as fumed silica will improve the strength of the joint and if you mix in enough, it won't sag or run.

I've had excellent results from Raka epoxy which can be found at Raka.com.

Edited to add, epoxy doesn't need huge clamping pressure so don't haul down on your clamps like you're used to. Just pull the joints closed.

[David Abel]

Good morning folks.

A number of months ago I had seen an article reviewing a number of wood glues and their properties. I don't remember if it was in a periodical or if it was in this forum.

I have usually used yellow glue with GREAT results. This time I need a glue with a longer working time. I am working with pre-finished pieces so squeze-out needs to be avoided.

What do you folks know of that will give me as much as a true 20 to 30 min. working time and still have really good bonding properties. The finished joints will be under significant stress.

Thanks for the help!

OH . . there was a thread a while ago from someone who had bought an Incra miter gauge (1000 SE). The discussion touched on adjusting to 90 the fence and using shims between the metal support bracket and the aluminum fence. NOT NECESSARY . . the three set screws behind the metal bracket can be loostened, the fence adjusted and the screws re-set. Works great. I have had the fence for about a year and have found it better than touted. It is stable, rigid, and makes cuts perfectly repeatable.

i'd use plastic resin glue.
http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/All_About_PPR_Glue.html

[Jim Becker]

Hide glue, some of the epoxies and plastic resins, as mentioned. There are some "longer working time" PVAs, but even they are not all that long in working time. White glue also works longer than yellow PVA in many cases...

[Joe Chritz]

The article is probably the one in Sept 04 WOOD magazine. I happened to be looking at it last night reference the Hipurformer hot melt system. (Looking for something for picture framing)

Anyway they show open times of 45 minutes stronger then the wood in edge to edge joints using any of the commonly available polyurethane glues. 12 minutes all PVA's were stronger and at 20 they all failed.

If a poly would work for you it is an option.

Joe

[Earl Kelly]

John,
You need a PPR, powdered plastic resin, or a urea resin type glue. The only drawbacks are having to mix it up and the work area/piece needs to be 65 degrees or above for the entire curing period. Depending on temp could be from 1 hr @95 degrees to 8hrs @65-70 degrees.

[Steve Cox]

Epoxy or Weldwood (plastic resin) would be my first choices although both have issues you may not be used to working with PVA. Epoxy has a great open time usually (depends on environmentals and how you mix it), squeeze out cleans up with white vinegar, and it is very strong. You CANNOT clamp with the same pressure you use with PVA. For strength epoxy requires more to remain in the joint than yellow glues. This will result in a more visible glue line than you are used to. As for Weldwood there is the opposite problem. The joints must fit very tightly and use the same pressure you would with PVA. Weldwood dries dark which shows up in the glue line. Great if you're working with walnut, not so good with maple.

[Bobby Nicks]

I used Titebond II "Extend wood Glue" when I need the extra working time. It comes in a white bottle and I got it at Woodworker's Supply.

Bob