Lifting a table saw top with a hoist

[Bill Dufour]

I have a rockwell 12/14 inch tablesaw. This is basically a 30% larger unisaw. The top weighs around 160-200 pounds by itself. I have to get it off the base cabinet to get it out a 36" door. Easy enough to remove four bolts but how for one guy to rig it and lift it? I will use an engine crane hoist for the actual lifting force.
My plan is to cut a piece of plywood the size of a zero clearance blade insert and sandwhich that top and bottom with some 2x6 and screws. Then use a single eyebolt through all three pieces as a lift point. That seems stronger then trying to chain around the attaching bolts. I believe they are 5/8 bolts so too big for me to easily hook chain to. Too big for a simple clip and too small for a clevis.
Bill D

[Thomas Wilson]

I use straps, like adjustable ratchet straps, and clamps on the tool as spreaders for the straps to create a lifting triangle such that the center of rotation is well above the center of mass. This ensures the piece hangs without pivoting as it is lifted.

[Patrick Kane]

I popped the top off an oliver 232 and a Powermatic 72 with an engine hoist. Having a load leveler is helpful to balance things. I think I looped three lifting straps from the outside of the table through the throat opening.

[William Hodge]

Use lifting straps, not ratcheting load straps. For whatever reason, the ratcheting load straps say "Do not hoist with these" on the package.

If the table is less than 35" with the wings off, you can pry the table top up, put 2 x 4s under it, and slide it on to a cart that is the same height. I use the 2 x 4 method to work on the inside of saws.

A chain hoist from a secure pick point on the ceiling works great, too.

[Alex Zeller]

I agree with Patrick. Get yourself an engine lift balancer (load leveler). You can then use the chains that come with it. Most likely the table has an edge that will work with a hook.

[Bill Dufour]

I think I looped three lifting straps from the outside of the table through the throat opening.
I never thought of lifting straps through the throat. That will work well since it needs to stand on it's side to get it outside anyway. I have a two ton load leveler already. Helped. a lot for moving my planer.
FYI my load lever is the kind with slots to hold chains. On mine one slot was too narrow for USA size chains. I had to file it slightly wider and taller so the chain would lock in. Or I could have ground down the weld flash on every link of every chain I own or will ever buy.
BilL D

[Marc Fenneuff]

Appreciate the tips in this thread. I have to lift an assembled cabinet saw with an engine hoist and move it to a new mobile base soon and I'd like to do it safely.

[Paul Haus]

I had to lift my cabinet saw to put it onto a new mobile base and here's what I did. I took the wings and fence off to prevent damage. I got some chain along with some of the circular foam strips you use to insulate pipes that's split up one side and slipped the chain into it. One chain under the front of the top and one on the back. Brought the chains up and used 2 of the threaded C shape chain splices like this: chain splices | McMaster-Carr (https://www.mcmaster.com/chain-splices/oval-shaped-threaded-connecting-links-not-for-lifting/) Each one formed a loop and brought them up to hook onto a chain fall. I also used a couple of strap clamps to hold the chains so they wouldn't spread while lifting. I could adjust the length of either one to keep the saw level and it went without a hitch.