Please Share Your Experience with…

[Rich Konopka]

I have a big project that I am about to start where I will be planing and sanding over 800bf of 12 inch 6/4 poplar. This will be for painted builtin’s and custom closets.

I never processed this much wood because I Typically use sheet goods. I have a 13inch DEWALT DW735x and just ordered a new Oneida mobile Supercell DC.

What I need to complete the job before is a drum Sander. Im looking at the Jet and Supermax Drum sanders.

What is your experience with either one?
Have you had any tracking issues?
Reliability Issues?
How is support?
How difficult is it to change out the sandpaper from rough to smooth sanding?
Would a double drum sander be my best option?

Thanks in advance for answering!!

Cheers

[Keegan Shields]

I bought a used SuperMax 25-50 and it’s been great. Early on I was having issues with the material stopping mid sanding. I called SuperMax and spoke to a knowledgeable tech rep based at their headquarters in MN, who helped me return the pressure rollers back to factory spec. The whole process took less than 5 min. Great experience overall.

The drum sander is great. Fast paper changes, good dust collection, clear manual do aid in initial machine setup. As long as I take lite passes (~1/8 turns) it performs great.

[Kevin Jenness]

Unless you enjoy the gruntwork have a millwork shop do it.

[Rich Konopka]

I bought a used SuperMax 25-50 and it’s been great.

Actually, I am considering the 2550 because it will allow me to easily handle 16” wide pieces. How long does it take to change the paper?

[Rich Konopka]

Unless you enjoy the gruntwork have a millwork shop do it.

Kevin, You are absolutely correct it is grunt work!! However, I have waited 6 months to have this wood milled and kiln dried. With the worlds labor shortages, back logs, supply chain issues, and…. I don’t want to delay this further. I am a hobbyist and enjoy the grunt work rather than sitting at my computer on zoom calls. Maybe I’m a glutton for punishment.😬

Do you have any experience with either the Supermax or the Delta?

[John Lanciani]

My experience is that poplar tends to get fuzzy when run through the drum sander. Are you expecting to get finish ready surfaces directly from the sander? Also, do you have a jointer for initial flattening of the stock?

[Rich Konopka]

My experience is that poplar tends to get fuzzy when run through the drum sander. Are you expecting to get finish ready surfaces directly from the sander? Also, do you have a jointer for initial flattening of the stock?

I do have a jointer and I was not expecting fuzzies. I’ve only worked with poplar in small trim pieces in the past.

How did you overcome the fuzzies during sanding?

[Jim Becker]

Rich, one thing the drum sander isn't is "fast". It's a finesse tool, IMHO. For 800 bf, I'd consider finding a local shop with a wide belt to run the lot.

Then again, I'm curious about why you're using solid stock for this kind of project rather than edged plywood, especially given it will be painted. The sheet goods would be more stable, require less surface preparation, etc. Is this a job for someone else that's requiring the solid stock? Again...just curious

[Keegan Shields]

Less than 5 min once you’ve done it a few times - that includes getting out the box of sand paper. I usually keep 80 or 120 grit on the drum and go to the ROS after for the finish prep.

[Keegan Shields]

I agree with Jim. Baltic birch plywood shelves with maple edge banding would be my choice for painted closet built-ins. But I’m sure you have your reasons.

I guess I’m to much of a goon to work with poplar. I always seem to damage/dent poplar before the project is done.

[Rich Konopka]

Rich, one thing the drum sander isn't is "fast". It's a finesse tool, IMHO. For 800 bf, I'd consider finding a local shop with a wide belt to run the lot.

Then again, I'm curious about why you're using solid stock for this kind of project rather than edged plywood, especially given it will be painted. The sheet goods would be more stable, require less surface preparation, etc. Is this a job for someone else that's requiring the solid stock? Again...just curious

Normally, I love cabinet grade plywood and would use it. However, i had to take down several large poplar’s and I want to repurpose the wood. The wood is going to be used as shelving for laundry room, butler pantry, MBR, and other closets.

Should I burn 🔥 it 🥵

[Jared Sankovich]

It's going to need r/o sanded after the widebelt or drum sander. You might as well skip that and just joint, plane and hand sand. Poplar is fast to sand. You should be able to hit it with 150 off the planer and be done.

[Richard Coers]

I have yet to see a hobby drum sander that I would want to feed 800 board feet through. With 12-16" stock, you have to measure material removal with a digital caliper and a stop watch with 5 minute increments. Maybe an exaggeration , but when looking at a full pickup load of lumber it will feel that way. Not a lot different with the Dewalt planer you have. Another big vote for hiring that work done at a shop with industrial equipment!

[John Lanciani]

I do have a jointer and I was not expecting fuzzies. I’ve only worked with poplar in small trim pieces in the past.

How did you overcome the fuzzies during sanding?

As others said, RO sander after the drum sander. Your jointer is big enough to handle 12" wide stock?

[Kevin Jenness]

Hey, fill your boots. I don't want to discourage using solid wood. Just be aware that, as Richard said, that is a big pile of lumber to process through the machines at your disposal and a lot of time involved. Keep in mind that a 25" wide belt sander would typically have a 10 hp motor and planing all that is going to produce a dumpster full of chips no matter what surfacer you use.

[Gary Petersen]

Actually, I am considering the 2550 because it will allow me to easily handle 16” wide pieces. How long does it take to change the paper?

I've had a SuperMax 16/32 or three or four years and love it. Sandpaper changes are quick, maybe five minutes to remove and wrap one sandpaper strip and install another, other than occasionally not getting the last end properly secured in the clip that holds it. I miss that every now and again and have to retry. I've done a bit of work with poplar and haven't run into fuzziness with it. It has been a while, however, for that wood.

Do yourself a favor and come up with some way to indicate what grit of sandpaper you have in it. I wrote the different grits I have in stock on a Post-It note which I taped to a metal piece of the sander and put a small rare earth magnet over the number currently installed.

Jim is right, the drum sander isn't fast. It does work well, however.

Gary

[Warren Lake]

Never had fuzz issues with poplar if we are talking yellow tulip. Maybe a bit of fuzz one board in 40 say. John dont know about tend to fuzz on the drum. I have a pro drum wide belt machine but dont use it as learned sanding on a stroke and its better. You dont talk lengths or paint process but that would be no big deal on the stroke. Paid less for a pro stroke than you would pay for a drum sander.

[Jim Becker]

Normally, I love cabinet grade plywood and would use it. However, i had to take down several large poplar’s and I want to repurpose the wood. The wood is going to be used as shelving for laundry room, butler pantry, MBR, and other closets.

Should I burn  it 掠
Absolutely don't burn it!! Use it for the projects because you have it and it's "paid for"...other than any potential prep you might decide to farm out, such as leveraging a local wide belt. "A board in hand is worth...", well, you know...a lot. :)