Wrong size cool blocks

[Mark Hollingsworth]

I recently ordered some cool blocks and received the wrong size(too big). I'd rather grind them to fit but before I open the package to put them on the disc sander just wanted to know if anyone knows why this wouldn't work? Thanks, Mark

[Scott Loven]

Cool blocks are a graphite impregnated phenolic resin block, should grind fine if you can figure how to hold them safely.
Scott

[Mark Hollingsworth]

Thanks Scott, I'll probably hold them with a pair of small vise grips. Mark

[roy knapp]

hi Mark

Mark what i use for cool blocks is OAK (hardwood).

Mill the oak the as the cool blocks (1/2 sq.) and cut them off to the length needed and soak them in a light oil.

I stand them on end and let the oil wick up though them.

they work as good as the cool block and dont cost a thing.:)

[Mark Hollingsworth]

Wow Roy, That sounds like a great way to do it. I never heard that before. Wish I had before I bought these. What oil do you use? Mark

[roy knapp]

Mark i used #20 oil and stood the oak blocks in jar cap in oil and dropped oil on the ends let sit over night and dryed them off with a rag, put them in the saw.

the extras i have in a tin box with oil on them for when i need them.

i have not chaged them in about 7 months.:)

[Jim Becker]

Roy's method is a very good and economical idea. "Real" cool blocks may be a little more forgiving if you are going to bury the blade in the guides, such as when using very narrow 1/8' and 3/16" cutters, but otherwise, folks have been using wood for a very long time for this purpose.

[Bob Noles]

Roy,

Thanks for reminding me of that trick. I think I'll go ahead and cut/soak some now for when I need them down the road.

How's that lathe decision coming along? :D :cool:

[Jeffrey Makiel]

Mark,
I have an unusual size guide block holder that is 3/4" square. I use 1/2" square cool blocks that I cut in half and epoxy to the existing metal blocks. In short, they cut, sand and glue easily. I'll probably go to the wood/oil method suggested above when they wear out, or upgrade to ball bearing guides.
-Jeff

[Mark Hollingsworth]

Thanks for all the responses. They were very infomative and helpful. Jim, you answered another question before I even posted it and that was how in the world I can set the guide blocks behind the kerf on a 1/8" blade. Evidently I don't! Thanks again

[Jim Becker]

Jim, you answered another question before I even posted it and that was how in the world I can set the guide blocks behind the kerf on a 1/8" blade. Evidently I don't! Thanks again

If you have a 14" saw, depending on the brand/model, you might also consider a Carter product that is designed specificaly for scrolling with a narrow blade, like a 1/8" cutter. It provides support at the rear, but doesn't encumber the sides outside of a little bit of the backing that rides in the grooved bearing. I've heard nice things about it and seen impressive demos.

There is no reason you have to be constrained to one kind of guide on your saw...setting up right for a particular kind of work is a good way to get superior results.

http://www.thebestthings.com/newtools/graphics/stabilizer.jpg

[Steve Stube]

I have used Maple blocks boiled in oil and they work fine. I use the same method to prepair the cam chain tightener block for my snowthrower. I see the mention of Oak in this thread and wonder how the White Oak (being a closed cell structure) will (or won't?) soak up the oil. Has anyone actually used oiled White Oak blocks?