Wavy Cut With Jobsite Saw...Help?

[Derek Arita]

So my new SS JSS has slight wavy looking cut. When I hold a straight edge on the cut, I can see there's light coming thru parts of the cut, however it's too little to get a feeler gage under. It happens with both thin and regular kerf blades. What's the cause? Is this very common?

[Greg Parrish]

So my new SS JSS has slight wavy looking cut. When I hold a straight edge on the cut, I can see there's light coming thru parts of the cut, however it's too little to get a feeler gage under. It happens with both thin and regular kerf blades. What's the cause? Is this very common?

Man, I feel for ya Derek. Since selling the PM2000 and getting the SS JS Pro it looks like you’ve had quite a few issues. I don’t know the answer on this but do hope you get it all figured out and working for you. Nothing worse than a new tool that doesn’t meet expectation or provide adequate results. Good luck!

[Maurice Mcmurry]

This sounds normal for a job site saw to me. This is the 2nd post about these saws in 2 weeks. I need to see and use one to be properly informed.

[Robert Hayward]

I started out a several years ago with a Bosch jobsite saw thinking it was all I needed. Probably would have been if I was on a construction site doing framing or such. My Bosch made the same kind of cuts you are describing. I never was able to produce a flat straight cut when trying to do really nice work. It looked to me like the motor mountings would flex, just a tiny amount. Talking to Bosch about it I was more or less told you did not buy a cabinet saw what did you expect?

I found a buyer for it without losing too much money from original price and bought the very saw you just got rid of, a PM2000. Could not be happier with the quality of the cuts now.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Motorized (direct drive) saws will always have limitations.

[Andrew Hughes]

I’ve found the fence to be the weak link on job site saws. I had Bosch gravity rise for a couple years I sold it easily when I didn’t need it anymore.

[Derek Arita]

Man, I feel for ya Derek. Since selling the PM2000 and getting the SS JS Pro it looks like you’ve had quite a few issues. I don’t know the answer on this but do hope you get it all figured out and working for you. Nothing worse than a new tool that doesn’t meet expectation or provide adequate results. Good luck!

Greg, actually, my feeling is that both types of saws have their advantages and disadvantages. Now that I'm downsizing, I'm really happy with the convenience of this saw, as I don't have to clear away a bunch of stuff just to use it and it's working out to be a pretty good little saw and is exceeding my expectations in many ways. The waviness is only detectable with that straightedge against lite and I doubt it will have any real effect on glue-ups. If it's a known with this type of saw, then I want to try to minimize it, if possible.

[Lee Schierer]

It sounds like play in the tilt mechanism. Be sure to use the locking lever for the tilt if there is one. Also since it is a new saw check to insure everything under the table was properly tightened at the factory. With the power disconnected see how much movement there is in the arbor. Then have a conversation with the manufacturer and/or distributor.

[Tom M King]

To get a straightline off a table saw, I think it's going to take one a bit stouter than a jobsite saw.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

First suspect is a blade, but sounds like you've checked that. Second is something flexing. Could be the motor, trunnion, the top, fence, whatever. Try being extremely consistent with feed pressures and see if that changes anything. You may see a pattern. One of the bad contractor saws I've had around actually had quite a bit of play in the thrust bearings in the motor that caused something like you describe. The more marginal the capacity of the tool for the task, the more important proper form becomes.

[Malcolm McLeod]

So my new SS JSS has slight wavy looking cut. When I hold a straight edge on the cut, I can see there's light coming thru parts of the cut, however it's too little to get a feeler gage under. It happens with both thin and regular kerf blades. What's the cause? Is this very common?

I can get similar results on a cabinet saw by combining a tough cutting material, a dull blade, horsing the feed, and stopping to reposition my hands. With cherry, the blade will flex sideways and burn the cut edge black. If I slow and/or stop feeding to reposition hands, the blade centers back up and magically the burning stops too.

Sounds like you've eliminated the dull blade as a source, so what is the pitch of the wave - measured peak-to-peak? Do you only get the wave on long stock (>30" or so)? Do you see it on short stock? Do you feed all stock - long or short - in one continuous, steady-pressure motion? Or, do you stop to reposition hands? If the latter, does the pitch length match up to your push stroke? Does wave get worse if you push harder/feed faster?

As per other's comments, likely something is flexing, but a slow, steady feed can perhaps compensate? ...the compromises of a smaller saw.

[Keegan Shields]

Are you using a rip blade or a combo blade? I found that a thin kerf 24T blade helped improve the cut quality on my Dewalt jobsite saw. Less resistance when pushing the work piece through the blade means less flex in the arbor mount/blade tilt mechanism, frame, etc.

Part of the benefit of a large cabinet saw isn't just the mass, but the rigidity of the trunnion design and where/how its mounted.

Hope that helps.

[glenn bradley]

This sounds normal for a job site saw to me.
Agreed. A job site saw is just what it is. Expecting it to approach even decent contractor saw performance is just unfair. If a job site saw worked like a cabinet saw we would all buy job site saws and spend the extra money on lots more wood :-)

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Are you using a rip blade or a combo blade? I found that a thin kerf 24T blade helped improve the cut quality on my Dewalt jobsite saw. Less resistance when pushing the work piece through the blade means less flex in the arbor mount/blade tilt mechanism, frame, etc.

Part of the benefit of a large cabinet saw isn't just the mass, but the rigidity of the trunnion design and where/how its mounted.

Hope that helps.

I have one weird rip only blade, it'll behave perfectly fine in some circumstances, but another pass on the same board it can deflect like crazy. Full kerf, Felder brand, expensive blade, sent it back for sharpening to try to get the demons evicted, no luck. Just saying because even fool proof sharp blades can have some underlying issue they just can't get past.

[Keegan Shields]

I have one weird rip only blade, it'll behave perfectly fine in some circumstances, but another pass on the same board it can deflect like crazy. Full kerf, Felder brand, expensive blade, sent it back for sharpening to try to get the demons evicted, no luck. Just saying because even fool proof sharp blades can have some underlying issue they just can't get past.

It's a good point Steve. When troubleshooting, you need to use known-good components where possible.

[Derek Arita]

Points taken. I've never owned a jobsite or contractor saw. I was fortunate enough to start out with a cabinet saw, so I have no comparison and that's why I'm asking. I was just hoping to mitigate the issue as much as possible.

[Derek Arita]

So here's what I did...I put a straight edge flat on the table, up against the fence. I ran a piece of plywood against the straight edge and guess what? I got a flat cut! I guess a flat fence really does matter. So, what can I use against the fence face to help flatten it? I even considered scraping the high points on the fence.

https://i.imgur.com/K6jCSVl.jpg

[Bryan Lisowski]

Derek,

Not super familiar with your saw. 1) can you remove the white facing of the fence from the “body” of the fence? If you can you might be able to shim the low spots. 2) if you can’t remove maybe you could sand down the high spots, provided the material machines well. My only thought is the white facing looks thin so you could introduce other issues. 3) you could build a fence sleeve that fits over the existing, this could be a PITA if if you are switching back and forth between rips and cross cuts without being permanently set up like a cabinet saw.

[Randy Heinemann]

First if I understand you and the rip fence face is wavy call Sawstop. If it’s a new saw it’s under warranty. I bought the SS Jobsite saw just after it first came out and have never gotten a cut like that. The Jobsite Saw is certainly not a cabinet saw but my guts are essentially perfect. I have been a woodworker for over 40 years and am a perfectionist so would notice that. I would imagine that if you force 8/4 hardwood through the blade there would be deflections but I’ve cut maple, oak, and other woods but never with that result. I have always found Sawstop support very good.

[Derek Arita]

First if I understand you and the rip fence face is wavy call Sawstop. If it’s a new saw it’s under warranty. I bought the SS Jobsite saw just after it first came out and have never gotten a cut like that. The Jobsite Saw is certainly not a cabinet saw but my guts are essentially perfect. I have been a woodworker for over 40 years and am a perfectionist so would notice that. I would imagine that if you force 8/4 hardwood through the blade there would be deflections but I’ve cut maple, oak, and other woods but never with that result. I have always found Sawstop support very good.

If I don't have success with flattening, I'll be calling them on Monday. I did call them on a out-of-flat table issue and they basically said it's a jobsite saw, not a cabinet saw, albeit very nicely said. Apparently there is no tolerance number for the JSS Pro.

[Derek Arita]

Solved the problem by sanding the fence face. I used a reference slab, with 220 paper and went slowly. Now I have an ugly, but flat fence face that eliminated the wavy cut. It also eliminated the vertical cup in the fence face. Stoked, I am. No more wavy cut and no need to add another face.

https://i.imgur.com/D1FKLNO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xZooCtt.jpg

[Ron Selzer]

Solved the problem by sanding the fence face. I used a reference slab, with 220 paper and went slowly. Now I have an ugly, but flat fence face that eliminated the wavy cut. It also eliminated the vertical cup in the fence face. Stoked, I am. No more wavy cut and no need to add another face.

https://i.imgur.com/D1FKLNO.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xZooCtt.jpg

Glad you got it worked out
Ron

[Greg Parrish]

Nice. Who cares how it looks as long as its a nice flat reference surface and it gives you accurate cuts. Good job.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Nicely Done! The appearance clearly shows what you were up against. If you re-do the laminate you could use Colorcore Formica. It would look nice but your work at flattening would not show.

[Randy Heinemann]

After thinking about this for awhile, any waviness, if it exists on my Sawstop Jobsite saw, is probably removed by jointing. I can't think of any rips that I haven't jointed before using in the project. I generally run the rip over my jointer once or twice after ripping, thus removing any residual saw marks. My guess is that, if any waviness exists on my saw, it's minute and is removed with the saw marks.

[Derek Arita]

After thinking about this for awhile, any waviness, if it exists on my Sawstop Jobsite saw, is probably removed by jointing. I can't think of any rips that I haven't jointed before using in the project. I generally run the rip over my jointer once or twice after ripping, thus removing any residual saw marks. My guess is that, if any waviness exists on my saw, it's minute and is removed with the saw marks.

You're doing what you should do. I, on the other hand, am lazy and prefer to go from saw to glue-up, so I try to adjust to the best sawn edge that I can get.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I just received a response from Beaver Tools about the Job Site Pro.





Answer: Hello! The Jobsite saw is a mixture of aluminum, plastic, and metal. The table top is coated aluminum, as are the fence rails. The fence itself is plastic, as is most of the body of the saw. Most of what's under the table like the trunnion, etc, is metal. They seem to be very resilient, and hold up over quite some time. I hope this helps. Thank you for your inquiry!

[Derek Arita]

I just received a response from Beaver Tools about the Job Site Pro.





Answer: Hello! The Jobsite saw is a mixture of aluminum, plastic, and metal. The table top is coated aluminum, as are the fence rails. The fence itself is plastic, as is most of the body of the saw. Most of what's under the table like the trunnion, etc, is metal. They seem to be very resilient, and hold up over quite some time. I hope this helps. Thank you for your inquiry!







Actually, the main part of the fence that comprises the melamine faces, is an extrusion. It's black and looks like plastic, but if you scrape thru the finish, the aluminum is exposed.