Best Set of User Chisels? [Archive] - Sawmill Creek Woodworking Community

Mike Evans

09-13-2022, 9:18 AM

I have been using a set of the Schaaf chisels recently and they have served me quite well. They suit me better than my Narex set. An alternative is the green handled Woodriver chisels from Woodcraft when you can catch them on sale. Truth is, I like the handles on the Schaaf set better and I do like the tool roll that comes with them for storage.

Monte Milanuk

09-13-2022, 10:01 AM

Wood By Wright - Chisel Test
https://youtu.be/13CLeUz9upc

Jeff Roltgen

09-13-2022, 10:10 AM

+1 on the Narex. Have standard and mortising sets - super nice fit/finish and performance to cost ratio.

Jim Becker

09-13-2022, 11:08 AM

Narex like Jeff mentioned are very reasonable priced. I have a few of those plus Ashley Iles (regular handle) and Woodriver (short palm type handle) and like them all.

Bernie Kopfer

09-13-2022, 11:54 AM

I’m sure that some handles feel better than others depending on who is holding them, but once you have a set you get used to the feel and learn to make them work for you. I have a Narex set because the price was right and I could not justify the cost of a premium set. But I would suggest that you also get a basic set of stubby chisels, I’ve been surprised at how useful they are and I always have a 3/4 stubby in my apron, saves going to the drawer and getting a long one.

Rob Luter

09-13-2022, 12:10 PM

I got a set of Blue Handle Irwin Marples for cheap from a Rockler affiliate in about 2006. They were still made in the UK at this point. They required a fair bit of flattening and prep, but they hold an edge well and are comfortable to use. I use them for coarse work but they will cut just as well as my LN set. Link below. $62 for six chisels is a low risk proposition.

https://www.amazon.com/Irwin-Tools-Marples-Woodworking-M444SB6N/dp/B000RG2Y56

Alan Schwabacher

09-13-2022, 12:18 PM

Keep in mind that the way you sharpen can make a large difference to the advantage of high quality steel. Look up David Weaver’s “unicorn“ sharpening profile that can make even mediocre steel edges last a long time.

Warren Lake

09-13-2022, 1:30 PM

have some old Berg which are respected. favourite ones i bought in Austria then found the same here think Stubai or close to that. As much as the berg are respected the steel is harder and I do fine with the Stubai softer steel, hones up super fast. Have others stanley far past when I would buy stanley. All work fine dont like short stuff and prefer wooden handles. Used to keep four or five sizes in the tool belt.

Brian Tymchak

09-13-2022, 2:14 PM

I got a set of Blue Handle Irwin Marples for cheap from a Rockler affiliate in about 2006. They were still made in the UK at this point. They required a fair bit of flattening and prep, but they hold an edge well and are comfortable to use. I use them for coarse work but they will cut just as well as my LN set....

Yep, same experience for me. I bought the same from the borg 15+ years ago. Thought I was being smart and bought the whole set of sizes which turned out to be a waste of money. I only use at most 4 or 5.

...so now I feel compelled to go put a decent edge on those. It's been a while since I gave them some love...

Rob Luter

09-13-2022, 2:53 PM

Yep, same experience for me. I bought the same from the borg 15+ years ago. Thought I was being smart and bought the whole set of sizes which turned out to be a waste of money. I only use at most 4 or 5.

...so now I feel compelled to go put a decent edge on those. It's been a while since I gave them some love...

I get it. But for the price I'd rather have it and not need it than need it and not have it.

Ben Ellenberger

09-13-2022, 10:48 PM

David Bassett

09-13-2022, 11:25 PM

... the best set of user chisels....

First, no such thing as "best". Chisels are a pretty basic design, but each implementation makes different choices. How they feel, how they balance, how delicate or robust they are, how easy to sharpen, and how long they hold an edge will differ between each model. Which is "best for you" will depend on how you perceive and rank these, and other, characteristics. That is likely different for each of us and as we tell you which is "best for us" there will also be a large component of what we're familiar with.

I have no doubt there are many chisels I could be happy with, but for myself I've settled on the Ashley Iles Mk2 Beveled Edge Chisels TFWW imports and sells. I find them to be easy to sharpen, well balanced in my hands, and with comfortable handles at a price that doesn't rule them out.

There are cheaper I bet could live with and I would have considered the more expensive LV Veritas PM-V11 chisels, because I do think PM-V11 has the best tradeoff between sharpening and edge longevity of any woodworking steel, but chisels are so easy to sharpen that wasn't a priority. (You don't have to take them apart and then reassemble and adjust them.)

I noticed the point being made above that with sets you may get sizes you never use. But on the other hand sets usually provide a discount over the per chisel prices. When I was thinking about this I noticed the basic 4 chisel sets (almost?) never include a 3/8" chisel. Because I need to feel balance etc, I now have more 3/8" chisels in different brands than is reasonable. (Theory was I'd find which model I wanted and get a 4 chisel set and be done. Turns out Ashley Iles aren't typically sold in sets, so the theory wasn't really tested.)

Anyway good luck and have fun in your quest! :)

Derek Cohen

09-14-2022, 9:13 AM

Hi everyone,

Looking for recommendations on the best set of user chisels. Willing to pay more for quality, but the plan is to use them hard for all shop joinery tasks! (So need for anything too fancy, just good steel and edge retention.)

Best,
John

Best steel and edge retention? Get a set - or several - basic (inexpensive) Japanese oire nomi.

A quick Google brought up these: https://www.woodcraft.com/products/fugikawa-chisel-set-6pc?via=573621f469702d06760016cd%2C5763289c69702d3 1fb000992

I must add that Japanese chisels are not for absolute beginners. They also need to be sharpened by someone with a little experience. But they will reward with superior performance.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thomas McCurnin

09-14-2022, 11:33 AM

I would buy a set of chisels which are easy to sharpen for the method I intend to use.

I will note that many chisels have very short blades and are impossible to sharpen on a Veritas Grinding Jig or Tormek is that is what you are using. Of course, if you hand sharpen everything, the size of the blade is irrelevant.

No matter what method you intend to use, I find using a Rikon + Veritas Grinding Jig for reshaping the blade is more or less a necessity, as I don't have the time to do this with a 250 Grit Diamond Stone. I also use a cheap portable belt sander with 80 grit paper and a wooden jig to hold the blade for this.

Monte Milanuk

09-14-2022, 1:51 PM

No matter what method you intend to use, I find using a Rikon + Veritas Grinding Jig for reshaping the blade is more or less a necessity, as I don't have the time to do this with a 250 Grit Diamond Stone.

+1 on this. Maybe not the specific brands, but definitely a powered bench grinder of some sort. 6", 8", high speed, low speed, WorkSharp, Tormek, whatever. I spent way too long trying to grind bevels by hand. Yes, I can, and have. No, it's not worth it, to me.

Mike Evans

09-14-2022, 3:03 PM

just saw that Schaaf has their set of four on sale right now for $29 on Amazon and that includes a tool roll for storage.

Richard Coers

09-14-2022, 5:49 PM

The best set would be some vintage chisels from a flea market. $5 each and you get the opportunity to restore them.

Prashun Patel

09-14-2022, 7:43 PM

Most chisels are users. Even the pricier ones are used for heavy tasks. If you mean you want abuser chisels to open paint cans and pry and scrape wood, that’s a different story.

All chisels are meant to be used hard - but to be used properly. There’s no way to be gentle with a mortise chisel - but there are abusive things you can do to it.

Descending from soap box now.

Anyway, I really like my Veritas bench chisels in pmv11. They hold an edge well, are balanced in my hand. Any socket chisels (I have a few) feel too dainty in my hands and have a tendency to fall out of the handles.

I owned narex chisels first they were fine but I hated the handles. Too clunky.

Not saying that premium chisels are better than what you can find in a flea market - just that they are not any more precious and are going to be good out of the box with no fixing.

Tony Wilkins

09-14-2022, 8:15 PM

I‘ve had and used vintage, Blue Spruce, Lie Nielsen, Japanese, Veritas PMV-11, and recently got a 2” Ashley Iles. The oire nomi was the first I got (first hand tool period actually) but never found the handle comfortable. As much as I like the others, the Lie Nielsen are the most comfortable, easiest to use, and best balanced. Haven’t had a chance to use the Ashely Iles yet.

Derek Cohen

09-14-2022, 8:23 PM

Hi everyone,

Looking for recommendations on the best set of user chisels. Willing to pay more for quality, but the plan is to use them hard for all shop joinery tasks! (So need for anything too fancy, just good steel and edge retention.)

Best,
John

John, the question you should have been asked at the start was ‘how much experience do you have with chisels (and do you have any at present), and how do you plan to sharpen them?’.

Any chisel can be sharpened and made to work well. Some blades will have better or worse steel, which affects edge holding, but all will work. As a rule of thumb, cheap chisels need more initial preparation than expensive chisels - that is one aspect you are paying for. Handles are a personal matter. One man’s meat is another man’s poison, and all that. How you use chisels is relevant - predominantly with a mallet or hammer is different from pushing only. A chisel for morticing is different from a chisel for dovetails.

Tell us about this.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Jim Koepke

09-14-2022, 8:26 PM

Hi everyone,

Looking for recommendations on the best set of user chisels. Willing to pay more for quality, but the plan is to use them hard for all shop joinery tasks! (So need for anything too fancy, just good steel and edge retention.)

Best,
John

It really depends on many things.

A bit more information might be helpful.

Are you looking for a "full" set from a single maker?

Would a few sizes fill your needs?

Are you looking for one set to do it all?

Just my opinion, having multiple "sets" (not necessarily all by the same maker) is more convenient for various types of joinery.

My paring chisels have low beveled edges and sharpened at a low angle. Yes they do need sharpening more often. (these are Buck Bros. socket chisels purchased over time on line or at estate sales and such)

There is also a set of butt chisels used for some work. (this is my eclectic set, there may be only two by the same maker and those may have been under different names)

Mortise chisels, naturally for cutting a mortise. (another eclectic set, my 1/4" Narex works fine, if a set was needed today a set of these might be my choice)

Also a set of square edged chisels for mortising, tenon work and on lap joints. (these are mostly Witherby with a few others)

jtk

Tony Wilkins

09-14-2022, 8:52 PM

II’ll admit to being a chisel addict. I like having a variety of sizes to always have the best one, as well as having a backup if that one is not sharp :roll eyes:. I also like having chisels setup for tasks, especially my long Blue Spruce paring ones.

Reed Gray

09-17-2022, 12:06 PM

Well, to me, the main considerations are the metal, and how the handles fit my hands. I am still getting into this. Not all metals are the same. The 'old' chisels can be highly variable in how good their metal is. A2 seems to be considered one of the standards. My main experience with A2 was with some turning tools from a lathe manufacturer who is no longer in business. It would not keep any kind of edge, and a friend wanted them so I gave them away. Handles can be highly variable as well. I have to see what my 'new chisels will feel like. I opted for the Kimmons chisels. Chatted back and forth with him a lot. His do appear to be the most expensive ones out there, and I am lucky to be able to buy what I want. When they get here, I will find out. His handles are 'stabilized' and pressed into some sort of epoxy, so being socket type chisels, they will not be able to be tapped out if I decide I don't like them. Time will tell. My set I currently have in the shop are some of the old blue Marples Chisels. They work fine. At least they work far better after I found out about correct angles and sharpening methods.

I was surprised to see chisels made from V11. The V10 and V 15 turning tools have been around for a long time. I would think that the V15 would be too brittle for bench chisels. Not sure about the V11. I am surprised that no one has used M42 high speed steel for a bench chisel. You could use any grinding wheel out there on them and not lose any of the temper in your metal. They may be more difficult to sharpen on standard matrix type oil or water stones, but diamond or CBN lapping plates would be no problem.

I am learning.....

robo hippy

Tom Bender

09-17-2022, 9:06 PM

These are my chisels

486283

I sharpen by hand.

There are several from my earlier experiences and I still use them when the task calls for one or another. The two on the right are great when a long reach is needed. The two with all steel shanks are risk takers (might hit a fastener) Not shown are stone chisels and I have a huge slick that was a waste of money.

But about 15 years ago I sprung for the set of Japanese 'white steel' 'mid priced' chisels. They required a few hours of fettling, or rather we needed that time to come to a working arrangement. My sharpening skills improved and the chisels got consistent and sharp. Since then I have become committed to them and use them for most everything.

Derek Cohen

09-17-2022, 10:07 PM

….

I was surprised to see chisels made from V11. The V10 and V 15 turning tools have been around for a long time. I would think that the V15 would be too brittle for bench chisels. Not sure about the V11. I am surprised that no one has used M42 high speed steel for a bench chisel. You could use any grinding wheel out there on them and not lose any of the temper in your metal. They may be more difficult to sharpen on standard matrix type oil or water stones, but diamond or CBN lapping plates would be no problem.

I am learning.....

robo hippy

Reed, Veritas PM-V11 is not similar to V10 or V15. The name is made up, and does not refer to a commonly sold steel composition. Actually the name is a joke made up by Rob Lee: PM stands for powdered metal. V stands for Veritas, and 11 is a reference to “going up to 11”.

Nearly a decade ago I compared PM-V11 with other steels when struck …

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/FourChiselSteelsCompared.html

Regards from Perth

Derek

Mel Fulks

09-18-2022, 12:23 AM

Derek Cohen

09-18-2022, 1:26 AM

Mel, you know that it is proper to leave the axe in the skull to show that it was hand chopped :)

Regards from Perth

Derek

Mel Fulks

09-18-2022, 1:56 AM

[QUOTE=Derek Cohen;3213894]Mel, you know that it is proper to leave the axe in the skull to show that it was hand chopped :)

Of course! It stimulates new growth ! And stops “iron deficiency anemia” !

Tyler Bancroft

09-18-2022, 8:30 AM

Derek, I know that the human skull has those funny squiggly joints. My question is, after you “ get into someone’s head” how do you close
the skull back up? Dovetails ? or do you “ knit” them “ just like the originals” ? And , of course, “what kind of glue do you use ?”

I believe Dr. Maturin preferred to tack on a silver coin flattened into a plate. But try getting your HMO to pay for that.

Tyler Bancroft

09-18-2022, 8:34 AM

I got a couple Lee Valley chisels with plastic handles so I don’t need to bring my nice chisels out for boat projects. The steel on them is really good and they hold a good edge. They are under $20 each.

Assuming you're talking about the ones with yellow butyrate handles (made in Japan), I agree on the steel. I find these hold an edge substantially better than the comparably-priced Narex ones. I don't care for the handles (I find them a bit small for my hand), but ergonomics are very personal. (And if one don't like them, Popular Woodworking published an article on how to replace the handles: https://www.popularwoodworking.com/article/making-your-own-chisel-handles/).

Jim R Edwards

09-19-2022, 2:44 AM

I chose the LN chisels due to how well they fit in my hands. To me they were the most comfortable chisels. If you are doing a lot of chisel work I think its important for the chisel to be comfortable in your hand. I dont factor in the steel too much. All chisels at some point need to be sharpened.

Jason Buresh

09-19-2022, 10:06 AM

Here is how I would go about selecting chisels.

First, how do you plan to use them? If you are cutting lots of dovetails you are going to want chisels with smaller lands (side bevels) or if you are paring you want low angle or if you are mortising you want some beefier or a dedicated mortise chisel.

Second, what do you have for sharpening equipment? If you are using a hardware store whetstone I wouldn't opt for A2 steel. If you have diamond stones or good quality water stones you can get away with better steels.

Third, what is you budget? It is true you get what you pay for but even budget chisels can be made to work. Chisels are an inherently simple tool.

I think the important thing here is to buy the tool that best suits your needs.

Patrick Kane

09-22-2022, 8:42 PM

I’m also a bit of a chisel addict. It’s strange, because I’m not a big hand tool user, but there’s something about chisels that makes me buy them. I have maybe 40 chisels of differing makes, sizes, vintages, and continents. As basic as rubber handled Dewalt chisels from Lowe’s up to pmv11’s and various vintage Japanese chisels. The PMV11’s are really exceptional. They hold an edge well, the backs come very close to flat, the handles are nice, and the shoulders are laser sharp. The vintage Japanese chisels also hold an edge for a long time. I’ve also grown somewhat accustomed to hitting the living heck out of a Japanese chisel with a metal hammer. They are onto something there. I think my best bang for buck users were a set of timber framing chisels by CA Strelinger. Most likely turn of the century maker from Detroit. Anyway, I bought them as part of a box of 12-15 chisels on Craigslist. Sold the excess 7 to basically break even on the deal and kept the set of strelingers. And that would be my best recommendation for a beginner on a budget. Vintage chisels from previous craftsman should come reasonably flat. The fit and finish of the 100+ year chisels is quite good. For whatever reason, I’ve found vintage chisels to still be a steal. They didn’t follow the same path as vintage hand planes.