A couple little boxes

[Ben Ellenberger]

We had a family vacation this summer and I saw some relatives I hadn’t seen since the start of the pandemic. One aunt organized the whole thing. I decided to make a couple small boxes for my two aunts that were on the trip. The first box is getting close. I’ll make second one with tops and bottoms captured in the sides, then cut the top off. That will save making frames and panels and should make it go a bit quicker.

The first one needs the hinges put on and some final sanding/clean up before finishing. I’ll most likely wipe on some BLO/varnish/mineral spirits.

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[steven c newman]

Looking good...

[Jim Koepke]

Very nice, the dovetails almost disappear.

jtk

[Ben Ellenberger]

Got the lid on. Since I’m using hinges with built in stops I had to cut away a little notch on the back of the lid to give the hinges clearance. I had to do this because I left a quarter inch overhang all the way around. I guess you could leave the back edge flush, but I prefer to have it symmetrical.

I’ll make the second box, then finish both at the same time.

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[Ben Ellenberger]

Got the stock broken down flattened, thicknessed, and the ends squared for the second box. This will be based on Paul Sellers keepsake box design. It will have rounded sides. I’ll do through dovetails, but put a rabbet on the end of each side so the grooves for the top and bottom don’t show. I was able to use one piece of wood for all four sides, so I’ll keep the grain running continuously around.

i have one #5 set up for rougher work and the other set up with hardly any camber on the blade and a tight chip breaker. I probably use these two planes 80 percent of the time I’m using a plane.

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[steven c newman]

Sounds like a plan..
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They are fun to build..
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This is where it gets a bit tricky...
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Had to carve that finger lift...
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End view...

Have fun!

[Ben Ellenberger]

Since everyone’s talking about dovetails, here are some dovetails. These are a little tricky because the baseline of the tails is angled. The rabbet on the tail board makes lining up and transferring lines much easier. I also use blue tape on cherry to make the lines more defined. The first joint wasn’t as tight as I’d like it to be, so I cut the second set of pins just a tiny bit fat. I’ve got some other things to take care of today, so I’ll come back one evening this week to finish up the remaining corners.

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[Mike Allen1010]

Nice way to celebrate great occasion. Well done- look forward to seeing with finish. Thanks for posting!

[Mel Fulks]

Well done, and they are something that everyone loves to get ! I do think they have a bit more grace when made of thinner wood. Don’t
think people need the Western “strong boxes” anymore ! But no one will ever turn down any of them !

[Ben Ellenberger]

I agree, thinner boxes look nicer. The sides of the second will be curved after the joinery is finished, so they will be thinner than this when the box is finished.

I have to thickness by hand, and I do admit to a little laziness on the first box. I though about making the stock thinner, but wanted to get on with it. I may get a planer one day. That would be luxurious!

[steven c newman]

Details...
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Curves...were planed with the No.4...before the lid was sawn off...
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Which is why Sellers had a WIDE dovetail ..
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So that these 2 pins would look the same size...

Hardest part for me was..
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That finger lift detail....shop doesn't have much in the way of gouges..

Also, I used different feet for my box..

[Ben Ellenberger]

I finished up the joints. As always, the last corner came out the best. because the pins get trimmed to account for the angled baseline, it’s important to make sure the backs of the pins are square. If they get fat at the bottom they keep the joint from seating fully. A little combination square is a good way to check after I trim the back of the pins with a chisel.

I got the grooves plowed for the top and bottom. The top is made, probably needs a little bit of fine tuning for fit, but it is close. I cut the bottom, but made a mistake and didn’t account for the depth of the grooves when I cut it to width. So, that piece goes in the scrap bin. I decided that was it for joinery for today, but I got the curves roughly planed into the sides.

After I get the bottom made the whole thing goes back together for a final dry fit. Then I’ll trim the pins and tails and take it apart for glue-up. The final rounding of the sides will happen after glue-up, but before I cut the top off. This will be a busy week and my mom is coming to visit next weekend, so this may sit for a bit before I can get back to it.

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[steven c newman]

BTW...there is a plan that can be downloaded...
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From Paul Sellers Masterclasses

I just got in a couple 1 x 6 Maple planks...and will try to make one of these in Maple...
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Something for me to do in October..

[Ben Ellenberger]

I had cut the bottom too narrow. Instead of making a wider panel, I decided to add slips. I made my sticking board several years ago out of whatever was within reach of the bench at the time. I’m sure I’ll make a better one eventually, but this one still works. I just clamp a scrap piece of wood down for a fence. In this case, the sides were already curved, so I had to clamp the piece down to put the grooves in.

The sticking board also worked well as a planing stop for beveling the bottom to fit in the grooves. The scrap I clamped down as a fence let me push sideways when planing.

Gluing this box up is a little exciting. It’s impossible to do a complete dry fit, because you can’t get it apart again. So, you have to check and double-check everything before gluing it up. The glue-up went pretty smooth. Once the glue drys I’ll trim the proud dovetails and pins, then finish curving and cleaning up the outside before cutting the top off.

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[Ben Ellenberger]

I got all excited and trimmed/flushed the tails on one side. There is still some clean-up to do before I cut this apart, but I think it will come out well.487215487216

[Jim Koepke]

A little combination square is a good way to check after I trim the back of the pins with a chisel.

Ben, of all my combination squares, my small one is the most used. For dovetails it is nice to have an even smaller square. I made one for checking the square on the sides of tails and the vertical sides on pins:

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It helped so much it brought me to a decision to purchase a small double square from Lee Valley > https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/hand-tools/marking-and-measuring/squares/72730-lee-valley-small-double-square?item=15N0501 < Currently out of stock but expected to be available by the end of the month.

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This gets used on every dovetail project and on other small work that needs to be square.

My shop made square was given to my grandson when he made his first dovetailed box.

jtk

[William Fretwell]

The back overhang produces a huge leverage against the top screws when the lid is open. A piece of continuous hinge or at least 3 hinges would provide more strength. Sizing the screws and heads will be very important. I prefer slot screws visually in such a box.

[steven c newman]

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I guess that is why we install a chain on such boxes?

[Ben Ellenberger]

I’m using Brusso hinges with built-in stops. So, the back of the top does not lever against the box.

I agree it is a little disappointing that the hinges come with Phillips head screws. I considered getting slot head screws to replace them, but the people I’m making these for won’t have any opinion or reaction to the screw heads.

[Ben Ellenberger]

Got the box cleaned up and cut apart. In the home stretch!

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[Jim Koepke]

Looking good Ben, I like the high top panel.

jtk

[Ben Ellenberger]

I spent last weekend visiting my brother and his family and going to my niece’s 5th birthday party. If you ever want to see absolute unbridled joy, just watch 5 year-olds walk around a corner and see a bounce house waiting.

I wiped the boxes down with a mixture of BLO, mineral spirits, and spar varnish. One box still needs another coat. I’m giving the other box another day for the finish to cure before a final coat of wax, but I couldn’t resist getting the hinges on now. I may stick with shellac for cherry from now on. I’m ok with how this finish came out, but I think I prefer a clearer finish that doesn’t darken it so much. I do like how cherry naturally darkens over time and the color evens out, so It will be interesting to check back on these boxes in a few years and see how they look.

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[Jim Koepke]

They look great.

jtk

[Christopher Charles]

Nicely done and good call leaving the spar varnish on the outside only (don't ask me how I know that's a good idea).

Hope you enjoyed the bounce house!

[Ben Ellenberger]

So I’m calling these done. I got the lids on both and wiped them down with a soft wax. I think my aunts will appreciate these.

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[Jim Koepke]

They look great Ben.

Almost everyone enjoys a box or two for holding keepsakes and other prized possessions.

jtk