Tru Grip clamp slipping

[Mike Tempel]

Does anyone know if there is a way to fine tune or tighten up a Tru Grip clamp? I am trying my new dadowiz but the clamp that came with it (40") is slipping causing me cut a curved dado. I tried another one that I have (50") but it too slipped. Am I doing something wrong or can I somehow tighten up the clamp more than the flip handle once it is on the board? I don't think I was applying too much pressure to it as I was making the cut as I only tried to stay within the guide but it is impossible to see the edges of the bit when cutting.
I am using a PC 690 router with a 3/8" spiral cutter and yes, these are the only two size Tru Grips that I have.

[Dan Oliphant]

Mike,
If you have any pony or bessey type clamps the slippage will go way. True grip type clamps always have the tendancy to slip in my openion.

[Lee Schierer]

I've had mine slip as well. I find that if I need something held quickly the Quick grip clamp works well, but it will slip. For secure non-slip grips I use C-clamps. Harbor Freight sells them from time to time in various sizes for just a few bucks and they work quite well for wood working.

[Chad Pater]

Did you know there are two "clicks" when tightening a true grips? I didn't realize this at first and encountered some slippage. The first "click" the lever is straight out, after the second "click" it gets tighter and is at 90 degrees to the true grip.
Hope this helps as I don't think it would be possible to slip after it is fully tightened (at least on mine).

[Anthony Anderson]

Mike, as Chad pointed out make sure the clamp is fully engaged. In fact the Tru-Grips that I have lock in three settings. The first setting is straight, or 180 degrees to the top face of the clamp, then at about 235 degrees, and at about 270 degrees. Totally unlocked is with the handle straight up about 90 to the top face of the bar. First, Make sure to slide the end pad (can't think of a better name) tight against the workpiece. This end pad, the part that slides, is also in two parts. The first part fits against the workpiece, and is 1 3/8" wide and has three gold color anodized plates fitted to it (Let's call this "Pad A") . The second part is 2 7/8" wide (PAD B). I put the clamp on the work piece, then slide Pad A tight against the workpiece, then I slide Pad B up tight against Pad A, next I lock the handle straight, and make my cut. I used to have the slipping problem until I figured this out. I now only have to lock the handle straight out. But if you worry about future slippage then lock at the second or third setting. But if you have Pad A &B set properly, then you will really need to muscle the clamp to get to the third setting. I never go to the third setting, and rarely the second. I hope this helps. That is a bad feeling to know that you just ruined a good piece of wood. If you have any other questions, or if I didn't explain it clearly, just ask. Regards, Bill

[Steve Clardy]

I have three sizes of them. Never had one slip I guess.

[Tyler Howell]

They hold real well when you use 2 more clamps to hold it down:mad: . I have a few of those curved dados around. Even with the double click I've had slippage.

[Mike Tempel]

Thanks for all the responses. Unfortunately when using a dadowiz C-clamps are out of the question as it has to slide unimpeded down the length of the clamp. I will try the second or third lock setting though that sounds like it might work. I may even put a second clamp on for the other end of the dadowiz in case I am applying too much pressure when pulling the router against the guide. Thanks and sorry Tyler, no pics on these screwups.