Box #3 (replacement)

[Derek Cohen]

Here is the third box (replacement). It is all Hard Maple - case, all drawer parts (with the sole exception of the Ebony drawer pull). This made it a little more challenging as the wood is hard and can be brittle, and any errors will be evident immediately. There is no compression for dovetails, and all need to fix exactly. But the result is spectacular - although I was working with offcuts, I chose clear sections with just a little interesting, subtle figure. This is a box for my son's Godmother, and I was seeking a feminine touch. No adornments.

Case construction, as will the other boxes, is mitred through dovetails. The case is 175mm wide x 165mm deep x 70mm high. 10mm thick.

https://i.postimg.cc/02G7Q7F9/1.jpg


https://i.postimg.cc/jSZN6tR9/2.jpg


It is only when you open the drawer that you find strong figure ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Jz1ZBGCZ/3.jpg


Finally, all three boxes. The Walnut box is for my son's Godfather, and the Makore box (with the Aboriginal message) is for his In-laws.

https://i.postimg.cc/6QqZYg3Q/4.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek

[Derek Cohen]

Wait, there is more! A box for the wedding bands. Here ... inside this drawer ...

https://i.postimg.cc/XJ2DtTKD/1.jpg

Two boxes, both in Fiddleback Jarrah, both 80mm in length and 40mm wide. One is 20mm high and the other 15mm high. Case sides are 3mm.

Yes I know that they look like blocks of wood. That is the idea https://www.festoolownersgroup.com/Smileys/default/smiley.gif

https://i.postimg.cc/636mj9Zv/2.jpg

Open the boxes (like a matchbox), and there is a leather-covered recess for two rings/bands ...

https://i.postimg.cc/nrgShBP4/3.jpg

The aim was to build the smallest box possible., one that can fit in a pocket without creating a bulge. I made two as I was not sure which size will be preferred.

I know that someone will ask how these were made, so I have preempted this with a pictorial ...

First, find a nice piece of wood and slice it up into 3mm thick "boards". The boards include a section for the top abd bottom, and the two sides. I kept these all in a single piece, and later cut them to length. This way the widths will remain constant.

The most difficult and most important part of the build is creating accurate mitres. This was done on a shooting board with Donkey's Ear ...

https://i.postimg.cc/05BBn1yz/4.jpg

The Donkey's Ear is precisely 45 degrees. The Veritas LA Jack uses a 62 degree cutting angle as we are planing interlocked edges ...


https://i.postimg.cc/RVJbbpWX/5.jpg

Care is taken to ensure that the bevel is taken evenly to the side edge ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Nj1CQy7X/6.jpg

... and then measure the width down the length to ensure all is perfectly parallel ...

https://i.postimg.cc/hvf3npp4/7.jpg

Alternate sides. I was not concerned about achieving a waterfall pattern.

https://i.postimg.cc/RZrbr1f9/8.jpg

Lay packing tape across the back of the butted boards, and flip them over ...

https://i.postimg.cc/Dznj02BM/9.jpg

Add glue ...

https://i.postimg.cc/25GHBPt8/10.jpg

And now roll it all up and secure the last end ...

https://i.postimg.cc/0QNVGVgG/11.jpg

The drawer is simply a carefully hand planed solid section, with two round mortices made with a forstner bit. Drop in fitted leather.

Done.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Jim Koepke]

Wow!

jtk

[William Fretwell]

Beautifully precise work. The majority of the end gain on the top surface does look a little weird, is that the fashion at the moment?

[Derek Cohen]

William, which end grain?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[David Hardy]

I think William is referring to the "clamp". It is just clear tape...

[William Fretwell]

The end grain of the dovetails in the larger boxes.

[Derek Cohen]

I thought that was what you meant.

There is no way to avoid endgrain when using through dovetails. The pins and tails could be reversed, placing the endgrain on the side. An alternative could have been using half-blinds or a mitred edge.

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/a7daab41-4858-44f9-afe6-a9411545c6f6

Regards from Perth

Derek

[William Fretwell]

Yes clearly through dovetails have end grain. When the majority of the end grain is clearly visible on top the top wood grain flow is compromised compared to the side where the grain area is much smaller. I had the impression the top wood grain was the primary focus of the piece.

Fashion plays a part, the ratio of the pins and tails used to be closer, now that has changed along with the number of cuts to be made.

The larger end grain area on the side would seem to fit more with my perceived design aim of the piece.

[Derek Cohen]

William, I agree with you. I would place the tail board on top if doing it again. The current orientation is "correct" for strength, insofar as preventing the sides "falling off" the top.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Keegan Shields]

Beautifully executed Derek, thanks for sharing!

[Clifford McGuire]

Stunning.

Q: How do you avoid/remove layout lines often created by a marking guage to indicate the depth to saw?

[Jim Koepke]

IMO, end grain can look just as good as face grain.

jtk

[Patrick Whitehorn]

Jim,
I agree. I don't quite understand the fetish for hiding end grain.

Patrick

[Derek Cohen]

Stunning.

Q: How do you avoid/remove layout lines often created by a marking guage to indicate the depth to saw?

Thanks Clifford.

On the faces, where gauge lines will be seen, they are scored very lightly - enough to be removed with a single shaving. On the unseen side, the line is scored deeply.

The dovetail lines (angles) are pencilled in, and then the gauge lines at the base line are deepened.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Christopher Charles]

Fabulous work as usual and appreciate the effort to share the process. And inspiring-happy to report that I need to make a ring box as well for an upcoming event ;)

I'm positive the boxes will be cherished by all the recipients.

Best,
Chris

[Clifford McGuire]

Thanks Clifford.

On the faces, where gauge lines will be seen, they are scored very lightly - enough to be removed with a single shaving. On the unseen side, the line is scored deeply.

The dovetail lines (angles) are pencilled in, and then the gauge lines at the base line are deepened.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks for the explanation Derek. That's the level of detail that takes your work to the next level.