Wiring a cyclone. Help!!

[Gary Jacuk]

I'm a pretty basic electrical guy where black goes to black, white to white, and ground to ground. Well I've got a Clearvue cyclone hanging on the wall and I tried to put a cord on it yesterday without much success.
Anyone out there who can tell me the wiring scheme? There are two groups of two yellow wires and one single yellow wire. It's a Leeson 5 hp motor.

Thanks
Gary

[Ken Garlock]

Gary, go to the Lesson webwsite and search for your motor by model. You will be able to find your wiring diagram there. On my Lesson, the individual wires have identifiers like T1, T2, etc., the diagram will refer to those labels.

[Jim O'Dell]

What Ken says! I've got to wire mine too. What are you using to turn your's on and off with? I will eventually make one of Dennis' remote units, but even with that, and until then, I want a button disconnect or handle switch to pull.
Let us know how you like your cyclone. Jim.

[Bert Johansen]

Jim, see my posting on Creeker's Weekend Accomplishments regarding using a 240-volt contactor, activated by a 115-volt rocker switch.
Bert

[Gary Jacuk]

Ken,
Thanks for the advice on the Leeson sight. I was there yeaterday, but did not think to search by model number. I'll give that a try. And yea the leads are identified as t1, t2, etc.
Jim,
I actually bought a remote control from a company called Fernbrook. Found them on the web. I'm not sure if it will work although it's rated for 20 amps at 220 volts. Ed Morgano seemed to think I might have to upgrade to a bigger relay, whatever that means, for a few more bucks. It's X10 technology, again, whatever that means.
Thanks for the help and I will certainly keep you all posted as to the results

Gary

[Bert Johansen]

Gary, for my DC system I used the same "contactor" described earlier along with a simple remote system from my local hardware store (about $20). I used a carabiner to clip it to my shop apron, and it's right at my fingertips when I need it. Works great.
Bert

[Ken Garlock]

Gary, I looked up this page at Electric motor warehouse where I bought this motor. (http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/120554.htm) It has the wiring options for CW and CCW.

This may or may not work for you, so use this information at your own risk.:eek:

[Gary Jacuk]

Ken,
Thanks for the feedback. To give you an idea of how basic my lack of understanding is, are L1 and L2 the black and white leads on the power cord?:confused: And I 'm still not sure where the ground from the power cord goes.:mad: I just don't get it. Sorry.

Regards
Gary

[tod evans]

Ken,
Thanks for the feedback. To give you an idea of how basic my lack of understanding is, are L1 and L2 the black and white leads on the power cord?:confused: And I 'm still not sure where the ground from the power cord goes.:mad: I just don't get it. Sorry.

Regards
Gary

gary, save your motor and find an `lectrician......02 tod

[Jeffrey Brown]

Gary,
L1 and L2 correspond to the power connections that need to be made on the motor wiring leads. They usally are found on a small j-box that is attached to the top side of the motor housing. For the ground, it should be located within the same wiring housing that the motor lead are in. There should be a green "grounding" screw located in there also. Look around and see if you see a symbol that looks similiar to this,
_|_
--
-. That should be your grounding point. Also, look through the directions for the "Cyclone". There should be a wiring diagram with it.
Is the system rated at 220V single phase or 220V 3-phase?
Hope this has helped a little. Jeff

[Gary Jacuk]

To all of you who have offered feedback, thanks very much and ultimately I was successful in getting the dc up and running. For now the remote I purchased from Fernbrook seems to be doing the job quite adequately, although I may end up taking Bert's suggestion and making my own.

Tod, I know what you mean about "find an electrician", but I've found that I never learn much in life by letting someone else solve my problems. I've seen you're work and I doubt you reached the skill level you're at by "hiring" someone when a job got a bit too dicey for you. I always say you just have to be smarter than the material you're working with.

Thanks again to everyone who has jumped in here to answer.

Gary

[tod evans]

gary, glad you got it done! i aint one to give up or hire out either, but you kinda skeered me with the "it aint sinking in" note:) keep pluggin` and don`t test circuits with your tongue.....02 tod

[Gary Jacuk]

Tod,
That makes two of us that were scared.:eek: For some reason I must have eaten a larger than usual portion of "stupid" this past weekend and the L1, L2 thing just wasn't making sense.:confused: We're much alike with regard to the "hiring out" thing. Sometimes you just got to wait for the proper gears to engage in the old brain.:rolleyes:

Thanks
Gary

[Chris Padilla]

For now the remote I purchased from Fernbrook seems to be doing the job quite adequately, although I may end up taking Bert's suggestion and making my own.
Gary

Gary,

All you really need is a simple 120 V "remote controlled lamp light". You know, plug one end of the box into the wall and plug your lamp into the box. Now you can use your remote to turn the lamp off and on.

The DC remote works on the same premise but in order to control the larger motor, you need to use a contactor. Contactors are wonderful simple devices...they have all kinds of inputs in order to control all sorts of outputs.

For example, the contactor could be a 24 Vac input (like what a sprinkler system works on) and have a 120 Vac output.

For the DC, usually you'll want a 120 Vac input to control a 240 Vac output. You simply wire the input of the contactor (120 Vac input) to the output of the box. Then you plug the box into the wall. Now you can use your remote to turn the contactor off and on just like you would a lamp off and on. Only this time, it isn't your lamp...it is your DC!.

Contactors really have 2 inputs and 1 output. One of the inputs is as I've described already. The other input, for the DC example, would be the 240 Vac. So you wire 240 Vac to one side of the contactor and you wire the other side to your DC motor. Now you can use your remote to turn the DC off and on. The contactor makes a rather loud clicking sound as it engages and disengages and may even hum a bit while engaged. It is basically a relay for all intents and purposes.

One thing to be sure off when getting the contactor (eBay is a good source) is to get one able to handle the current draw of your 5 HP Leeson motor. 30 A should be plenty.

Holler if you need more help.