Building a steady rest

[Robert Hayward]

Ordering parts and materials to build a reaonably heavy duty steady rest using steel. How many wheels is enough?

I have a Oneway two wheel steady that is of excellent quality but does not always dampen the vibration. I also have a small homemade wooden steady that works well for small stuff that has the ability to use five wheels. The new heavy duty steady will be made using a McMaster-Carr duct flange to fit my 3520b. Plans are dated 2010 and by a Creeker, JD Combs. Pictured are my current steadies and a screen shot of the drawing I am getting ready to build.

[Brice Rogers]

Looks like a nice design.

But I'm wondering if there any benefit to having four wheels versus 3? If you intend to you a laser or camera system for hollowing, with 3 wheels don't create as much optical obstruction.

[Dwayne Watt]

In my opinion, a four wheel design is a bit easier to build geometrically and still get the wheels to align well. I built my steady rest with the arms inset into the frame for support strength, so it is only as thick as the plywood frame itself (~1.5 inch).

[Peter Blair]

Looks like a really robust steady. I always found that the solid rim got in the way of my laser and now my camera. I built mine with a gap so I no longer have to fight that issue. I do not do any deeper than about 12" so mine lighter one works just great. I do think that having one wheel just about right at the cutter works really well both for deflection of thinner forms and will dampen the vibrations well. Just my 2 cents worth!

[Ricc Havens]

Looks like a really robust steady. I always found that the solid rim got in the way of my laser and now my camera. I built mine with a gap so I no longer have to fight that issue. I do not do any deeper than about 12" so mine lighter one works just great. I do think that having one wheel just about right at the cutter works really well both for deflection of thinner forms and will dampen the vibrations well. Just my 2 cents worth!


Peter, any photos or drawlings available for your open steady rest. I have been wathcing these kinds of discussion topics for a while and looking for ideas since I use a camera. It might be of interest to the original poster on his build and also to others.

Thanks
Ricc

[Robert Hayward]

Looks like a really robust steady. I always found that the solid rim got in the way of my laser and now my camera. I built mine with a gap so I no longer have to fight that issue. I do not do any deeper than about 12" so mine lighter one works just great. I do think that having one wheel just about right at the cutter works really well both for deflection of thinner forms and will dampen the vibrations well. Just my 2 cents worth!
Maybe too robust. Not sure how much this will weigh when done. The duct flange will be here tomorrow according to UPS so I will be able to guess the weight better then.

The solid rim got in the way of the line of sight? Or the arms holding the laser or camera?

I also would like to see a photo of your design, if possible.

I am going to build this new one with the arm holder for what the plans call a platter steady. If I make one extra bowl steady arm I would be able to put the extra arm at the cutter location.

[Robert Hayward]

Peter, any photos or drawlings available for your open steady rest. I have been wathcing these kinds of discussion topics for a while and looking for ideas since I use a camera. It might be of interest to the original poster on his build and also to others.
Thanks
Ricc

Have never used a camera for turning. Is it really that much better than a laser?

A camera most likely would have allowed me to achieve a better finish on the inside top of my most recently finished project. I turned and finished the sides and a tiny portion of the top before I glued the top rings onto the base. Was not able to get anything inside the vessel to smooth the inside of the top portion. Cannot be seen and just barely felt, unless you have small hands with long fingers. Which has already happened and I got called out for it by a neighbor lady. I was not able to get a finger in there to feel the roughness or I would have done something to eliminate it.

[Peter Blair]

Hey Rick. I only use my laser now to set up my Oneway Easy Core. The way I have my camera and tv it takes less time to get it than to set up the laser. Here is a link to the Steady I made there are a few changes I would make if I were to make one today. The wheels should be on the tailstock end to allow them to be positioned closer to the top of the item, https://wordpress.com/post/woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/178. And here is my take on a camera to aid in hollowing. https://wordpress.com/post/woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/852 Please feel free to ask any questions you might have.

[Ricc Havens]

Hey Rick. I only use my laser now to set up my Oneway Easy Core. The way I have my camera and tv it takes less time to get it than to set up the laser. Here is a link to the Steady I made there are a few changes I would make if I were to make one today. The wheels should be on the tailstock end to allow them to be positioned closer to the top of the item, https://wordpress.com/post/woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/178. And here is my take on a camera to aid in hollowing. https://wordpress.com/post/woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/852 Please feel free to ask any questions you might have.


Peter, thanks for sharing the links. But, when I click on them it's asks me to log in to the account. I don't have a wordpress account.

[Peter Blair]

Oh rats so sorry. As I get older I seem to make more mistakes of this sort. if you have time please try these links.
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/2017/11/11/video-hollowing/
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/tag/wood-lathe-steady-rest/
It used to be much easier when I was younger!! LOL
I sure hope these links get you to my blog.

[Ricc Havens]

Oh rats so sorry. As I get older I seem to make more mistakes of this sort. if you have time please try these links.
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/2017/11/11/video-hollowing/
https://woodbowlsandthings.wordpress.com/tag/wood-lathe-steady-rest/
It used to be much easier when I was younger!! LOL
I sure hope these links get you to my blog.

thanks Peter!!!

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I built to the Combs plan several years ago using a large flange (for my Robust AB - 25" swing). I used three wheels with them offset about 7 degrees from vertical so they wouldn't interfer with laser or the camera I use nw. Its very solid, and works well. I don't think I needed to go to four wheels. The final unit is huge but the overall weight is very manageable. These are very good plans with great directions as I recall.
Here's a very old photo when the build was finished - about 10 years ago (before we moved and built a new shop) The angle makes it look even larger than it really is...
485299

[Peter Blair]

Robert I found the frame got in the way. I intentionally put the three wheels away from the line the laser took but now I use a camera and find the unobstructed view great but I am sure you will get used to whatever you make. If you want to see more check the links in the SECOND post I sent to Ric in the post above.

[Robert Hayward]

Jeff, that is a big flange. I went with a 22" for my 3520b and now realize I could have used a 20" with no problems. Do you get much vibration with those long wheel support arms? Three wheels is probably enough but I am not taking a chance about wishing I had gone with four. Just too much trouble to cut it apart and reposition the arms to add a fourth wheel. If I build it for five wheels and position them properly I can still use it as a three wheel steady. My small wooden one is made that way.

Peter, the open frame style looks like it would have advantages. My small wooden steady is made with an open frame. For ease of attaching the steady to the lathe though rather than with a laser/camera in mind. The open frame allows me to rough turn then install the steady without removing the work piece from the centers/jaws.

[Brice Rogers]

I think that in an ideal world, that a turner would have more than one steady. One smaller and one bigger.

Consider making a steady that can handle a 24" dia. piece ... but you typically turn smaller things like long spindles 2 " in diameter. Does it make sense to make the steady handle the max dia. that your lathe can handle? So the length of the metal piece holding the wheel is around 8 or 9 inches...hanging out there. If a person had a smaller one ... say to handle a 10" piece or even smaller, the length of the metal holding the wheel would be only a few inches.

It is easy to make a really robust and solid smaller steady. To make a much larger steady doesn't scale exactly the same way. The arms holding the wheels are longer. The thickness of the steel may be fairly thin (think 1/4" steel thickness that is 24" diameter versus a 1/4" thickness steel that is 10" diameter - - which one will vibrate or flex more?).

So, my advice is to make a steady that is geared to the size of the pieces that you are likely to turn. If, at some future time, you need a bigger steady, then just build a new and bigger one. They really are pretty easy to build.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Jeff, that is a big flange. I went with a 22" for my 3520b and now realize I could have used a 20" with no problems. Do you get much vibration with those long wheel support arms? Three wheels is probably enough...
It is big, but I haven't found vibration to be an issue. Three wheels have been sufficient for my needs, and the length of the arms does not seem to be a problem, but then the angle this was shot at has probably made the proportions look a little out of whack. I'm glad I rotated the wheels from vertical - allows the camera free range - I changed from the laser a few years ago.

[Robert Hayward]

The flange has been cut, the steady arm holders cut, the flange base platform cut and the bottom clamping block has been made and painted.

Notice my full scale drawing. No CAD here, hand drawn on the bottom of the box the flange shipped in. I will make this to accommodate six arms as you can see on my drawing. Will most likely build only three arms plus a patter steady arm. I have enough steel on hand to to make six arms if I get ambitious while working. I had almost enough material on hand to build this steady. Everything except the flange, the 1 1/4" tube and the wheels. My total cost will be well under $100 not adding anything for material on hand.

The 1 1/4" steady arm holders had to have the interior weld seam smoothed so the 1" arms would slide smoothly. Easy work with a die grinder and a carbide burr. My base platform is 1/2" thick steel because that is what I had without making a trip to the steel supply house.

I tacked a thin piece across the bottom of the flange to hold the flange shape after it was cut. I did not know if there would be tension on the flange. This will be removed after the base platform is welded on. Cutting the flange with a Sawzall leaves a crude surface. I cut back of my line and used a right angle grinder to get closer. Then the edge sander to get to final dimension and insure the two cuts were in the same plane.

After reading Jeffry Smith's comment I will not have a steady arm at 12 o'clock hopefully avoiding some the the interference for a laser or camera.

I have a neighbor that is a professional welder that specializes in stuff that the welds show when complete. He does some of the prettiest welds I have ever seen. I can weld but I would be embarrassed to display my welds next to his. Once all my pieces are prepped I might see if I can persuade the neighbor to do the welding.

Looks like it is going to rain most of the day so I am off the project as I do most dirty metal work outside. Do not like metal chips all over a wood shop.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

I wish I'd had a prof welder for a neighbor when I built mine. I hadn't welded since college (over 40 years ago) so the welding is, at best crude but serviceable. After a little grinding and paint, its tolerable. Even with the crude welds it has held up beautifully and works fine. Overall, this is a great design.

[Robert Hayward]

Making progress, albeit slowly. The arm holders are positioned, clamped and ready to be welded. The base platform is complete but did not make it into this picture. After the arm holders are welded I will clamp the base and true it up square and centered to the ring. The bolts holding the arms in the arm holders are temporary. I have star knobs for the final version. I did not want to take a chance on melting the plastic knobs with splatter.

[Robert Hayward]

The arm holders have been welded. By an impatient me. The neighbor would have done it but I would have had to wait almost a week. In the attached picture I am checking the alignment of the base to the flange ring as I am setting up to weld the base to the flange. I first leveled the lathe ways over the length and width. Then placed the steady assembly on the level bed ways. By adjusting the location and pressure of the two clamps I was able to get the flange within a couple hundredths over 1/16" from perfectly vertical using a plumb bob to determine that. That seemed close enough for what I do with the lathe. If it ever stops raining here I will make the final welds.

[Robert Hayward]

All welding is done. The entire assembly including the arms were painted today. The pieces are hanging right now letting the paint dry. It will be a couple days before the paint really hardens. Then attach the wheels and the assembly is ready for work.

[Robert Hayward]

Had two wheels left over and had the correct size steel on hand to make the platter steady. So with nothing to do this afternoon I made the parts for the platter steady. Tell the truth it was not much fun cutting those four notches with hand tools. Hand filing the cuts to the line was not fun either. The three notched pieces are made from 1/2 X 1 flat bar. They came out pretty good. Welding the center of the three piece platter steady to the arm is next.

[Robert Hayward]

The platter steady with adjustable arms is welded, painted and complete. The entire steady rest is complete and it is time to get a large blank and try it out.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

Robert - nice job on the fabrication. Before you get too busy using it, may I suggest you chuck up a well-trued piece, use it to very lightly drive your wheels and use a sharp scraper at reasonably low speed to true the wheels. You should only need to true them once, but it can make a big difference to how smoothly everything runs at speed.

[Robert Hayward]

Jeffrey, thanks for the tip. I will try it when I put the steady on the lathe for actual use. I am in the process of gluing up a blank for a 12" platter. Did not work on it for two days while I prepped for hurricane Ian. For three days the track showed the storm coming ashore right were I live. Everyone in the area was really nervous. Then the storm turned onto land about 120 miles south of me. It has been over 100 years since this area has had a direct hit by a big storm.

[Jeffrey J Smith]

glad to hear you dodged that bullet. From the news, it looks like it hit hard.