Accurate Jobsite Saw?

[Derek Arita]

So...I'm thinking about downsizing and selling my PM2000. I'm a hobbyist, have all the Festool stuff and I really haven't been using that PM2K for anything but ripping narrow boards. Thing is, I want a roll away saw that will make accurate and repeatable cuts. What are my chances of finding that in a jobsite saw?

[Jim Becker]

I seem to remember there may have been a similar conversation here not long ago. In the end, it comes down to the fence and as shouldn't be surprising, the higher end "jobsite" saws will have the best chance to provide that. But here's a thought....strip the PM2000 down and put the wings, etc., in storage after preparing them to resist rust. Make or buy narrow rip rails. Put it on a simple mobile base if it's not already on it. You now have a smaller machine for your ripping that you know and trust that takes up about the same footprint as most, if not all of the higher quality jobsite saws. :) And since you still have all the parts to restore the cabinet saw to "full figure", when someday it needs to be pass on, everything will be there.

[Jonathan Jung]

Why not just put your saw on wheels and remove the auxilliary tables, even cut down the fence? It may not take up much more floorspace than a jobsite on wheels.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

Ditto Jim and Jonathan. Our construction company has several good Dewalt jobsite saws, and I do recommend them. We also have several others that I would not. The jobsite saws are the same footprint as a cabinet saw without the outfeed tables and fence extensions, but with less power as more noise. Jobsites also have a shallower table so it's even more important to use a helper or stands. That's a good trade off for a saw that has to be on site for a few days then moved elsewhere, but it's annoying in a shop. I personally have a bit of a tablesaw collection problem, so there are plenty of options when I need a saw. I use a cabinet type saw over a jobsite saw 100% of the time if it's an option.

[Randy Heinemann]

I have the Sawstop Jobsite Saw since it came out a few years ago. I love it and, with a one-time adjustment to the cursor on the rip fence, I feel that it is very accurate (maybe not as accurate as a cabinet saw though). I use it mainly for small rips (sometimes longer with a temporary outfeed support). I have used it for cross cuts and they work fine but not with the included miter gauge.

It does what you seem to want. While it does take up about the same space as a big saw while in use, it can easily be folded up and moved out of the way, which I do quite a bit when I'm not using it. I have never felt it is under powered for what I do and I have ripped 8/4 maple and oak. It does fine but the feed rate needs to be a little slower than with a cabinet saw. After all, it's a 1 1/2 HP (maybe 1 3/4 HP) saw, not 3 HP.

The only drawbacks on mine were the short distance in front of the blade, bad miter gauge (which can be upgraded with any number of after market gauges). My saw, the original version, had a molded throat plate which never was perfectly level but I upgraded that with an after market plate.

The newest Jobsite Pro has more depth in front of the blade, a better finish on the table, and a much better flat throat plate. I believe the miter gauge still sucks but, . .

While this saw clearly isn't meant to be a clone of a cabinet saw, it is a great saw; maybe expensive, but still a great saw for my use. I have even considered selling mine and buying the new version of the Jobsite Saw just for the improvements.

[Derek Arita]

Thanks Randy. I'll look into this.

[Derek Arita]

I seem to remember there may have been a similar conversation here not long ago. In the end, it comes down to the fence and as shouldn't be surprising, the higher end "jobsite" saws will have the best chance to provide that. But here's a thought....strip the PM2000 down and put the wings, etc., in storage after preparing them to resist rust. Make or buy narrow rip rails. Put it on a simple mobile base if it's not already on it. You now have a smaller machine for your ripping that you know and trust that takes up about the same footprint as most, if not all of the higher quality jobsite saws. :) And since you still have all the parts to restore the cabinet saw to "full figure", when someday it needs to be pass on, everything will be there.

Jim, do you think I could still use the Beis fence on it?

[Jim Becker]

Jim, do you think I could still use the Beis fence on it?

Yes, the actual fence should be useable...just consider making or buying na ew short-short front rail so you can preserve the originals. Biesemeyer (tee square) fence rails are pretty simple to fabricate from steel angle and 2x3 rectangular steel tube. I was actually going to do that for the PCS I had in my temporary shop to make the rails longer as a previous owner had cut it down significantly, but decided that the new slider would be the only table saw in the new shop.

[Brian Holcombe]

Mafell Erika85 might do it. I’ve been considering it for job site work since most job site saws are junky, but Mafell stuff is pretty good. It has a sliding table and also a double miter.

[Derek Arita]

Well, the Mafell is waaaaay over my budget, however I am looking very hard at the Sawstop Jobsite Pro. From what I understand, it's been out since '15, so I'm wondering if a new version is coming soon?

[Randy Heinemann]

Well, the Mafell is waaaaay over my budget, however I am looking very hard at the Sawstop Jobsite Pro. From what I understand, it's been out since '15, so I'm wondering if a new version is coming soon?

The current version of the Sawstop Jobsite Pro is the updated version which came out around a year (maybe 2) ago. I have the original which was first available in 2015. The current version, the Pro (as the first one wasn't called Pro) has more distance in front of the blade, a better finish on the table (at least the ones I've seen in stores does), and has a better insert. I doubt Sawstop will come out with a new version for awhile, but you could call their support number and ask. I have always found Sawstop support to be responsive.

[Derek Arita]

Thanks Randy. Just what I needed to know.

[Scott Clausen]

+1 for the Saw Stop Jobsite pro. It is accurate and safe. I need the wheels so I can roll it out of my small shop for longer rips. I have been very happy and will keep until I have a shop big enough to dedicate a fixed spot for a TS.

[jerry pepper]

I’m about to pull the trigger on the SS Jobsite Pro too, I keep reading conflicting things about the fence accuracy, it moving when it locks - can either of you weigh in?

[Scott Clausen]

I’m about to pull the trigger on the SS Jobsite Pro too, I keep reading conflicting things about the fence accuracy, it moving when it locks - can either of you weigh in?
I don't use mine all that much but like the fence and have not had any movement issues.

[Derek Arita]

I’m about to pull the trigger on the SS Jobsite Pro too, I keep reading conflicting things about the fence accuracy, it moving when it locks - can either of you weigh in?

I think the same thing happens with my Bies as well. All I do is move the fence to line up the measurement on the cursor and give the lever a nudge to square up the rest of the fence. Then I do some taps to get a final lineup of the cursor. I've also read that all you have to do is push the front of the fence to the rail while lining up the cursor. Either way, I'd anticipate no problems.

[Derek Arita]

Well, the PM2000 sold in 1 hour on CL, so I'll be going for the SS Jobsite Pro. Hopefully, it'll be just what I'm looking for. Thanks all for the feedback.

[Greg Parrish]

Well, the PM2000 sold in 1 hour on CL, so I'll be going for the SS Jobsite Pro. Hopefully, it'll be just what I'm looking for. Thanks all for the feedback.

Dang, congrats. What sort of price and condition did you have to sell it that quick? Just curious.

[Randy Heinemann]

I’m about to pull the trigger on the SS Jobsite Pro too, I keep reading conflicting things about the fence accuracy, it moving when it locks - can either of you weigh in?

I have the first version of the Sawstop Jobsite so I can't address concerns about the current Pro version. I have never had a problem with the fence not locking. During the first month I owned the saw I did make a minor adjustment to the cursor on the rip fence to make it more accurate when compared to other proven measuring tools I have. After that, I haven't made any adjustments to the fence. I have found the cursor to be as "right on" as is possible. When I rip a board I always joint the edge to be sure it's really square, smoothe, and flat. Therefore, for most rips, I add a tiny bit more than I need, usually less than 1/32", run it over my jointer twice, taking off just enough to bring it to the final measurement with 1 passes, and I have never had problems. However, whenever I check the actaul result against the desired rip width before jointing, it's always right on. So, the simple answer is that I have not had any problems with either rip fence accuracy or the fence staying locked down. I also have not had problems with the fence deflecting on the backside since the mechanism could possible allow that. I would imagine that if you put a lot of side pressure on the fence it would deflect some but, when ripping, some pressure is exerted sideways to keep it on the fence but I think more is exerted downward and forward. Feeding the board firmly from the back corner (until you get up to the blade) keeps the board against the fence without a lot of effort. (Not sure if I answered the question.)

[jerry pepper]

Thanks Randy! the issue i heard about wasn’t that the fence would not lock but that when you lock it, it moves slightly, making accurate measurements frustrating. From what I can tell from the other posts it seems like there’s some truth to this, but you just have to know how to best adjust / square the fence before locking and then the movement is not an issue?