how to remove this?

[Albert Lee]

The Delta RJ42 I have is very loud (100dB running idle) and I am going to give it a try by replacing the bearing, if by doing this the noise still there then I will get myself a new buzzer.

I have removed most of the bolt/nut/pins, now the cutter head assembly can be lifted, but I cant lift it out because the infeed/out feed table is in the way, I have lowered both infeed and outfeed table as much as I can, but I need maybe another 5-10mm or 3/8 inch to take out the cutter head.

I dont think I can tap the bearing out while the cutter block is in the machine?

what am I missing? what am I not doing right?

I cant remove the fingers, it seems the fingers can only be removed after the cutter block is removed.

484827484828

[Jerry Bruette]

The pulley end of the cutter head would have the held bearing and the other end would have the floating bearing. I would replace the bolts that hold the held bearing end and try tapping the the floating bearing block with a block of wood and a hammer. Tap it evenly on all sides to prevent binding.

[Bill Dufour]

A socket or piece of pipe, metal or plastic, that just fits is another choice for a tool to tap it out.
Bill D

[Tony Shea]

As others have said, tappy tap tap tap. You're going to want a little bit of help and maybe some heat.

[Kevin Jenness]

http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/23183.pdf
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/1141/6828.pdf

You may be able to drop the tables lower (and farther apart) by removing or adusting the depth limit stops shown on p.6 of the manual. You may also have to remove the lock handles to maximize the table movement. The problem with separating the pillow blocks from the cutterhead while mounted in the machine is supporting the head from below so it doesn't drop during the process. I guess you could remove the tables by driving the pins out of the eccentric bushings, but that would be a radical solution.

[Ronald Blue]

Maybe I'm missing something here and I think this is what Jerry and others suggested. Tap the shaft out of the bearing or bearing out of the block on the end away from the drive pulley. Then just continue out that side with the assembly. It will be heavy in a cutter head that wide so as was said help might be a good thing. You don't want the inserts banging against any steel and chipping them. I don't think they designed it to come out vertically but I might be totally wrong.

[Albert Lee]

I managed to remove the cutter block by removing 4 rows of knives. a little wiggle here and there. the cutter block is out.

The bearing on the operator side is completely stuck maybe from dust? I removed the bearing and put in new. the drive side of the bearing is still good.

I turn on the machine this morning and use the dB app on my phone ( the same app I used before), measuring at the same location, the drop in the noise is 20dB!!

[Ronald Blue]

Grease in ball bearings will eventually fail. The oil in the grease will over time dissipate. Because the bearings may have only had shields and not a rubber seal it can happen faster. Especially when a machine sits for lengthy periods. Regular use and it keeps it mixed together. There isn't a large quantity of grease to start with in ball bearings.

[Tom Bender]

Congrats on a successful repair.

[Eric L. Severseike]

Congratulations on the fix.

If it were mine, I'd replace both bearings while you had it apart - the other bearing (and the lube inside it) is almost certainly as old as the bearing that failed. In my mind, the cost/benefit analysis on replacing a $10 (or $20, or $100) bearing vs. potential future downtime or damage when the bearing eventually gives up the ghost (and you have to take it apart again) is pretty easy to justify.