Drilling holes in Red Oak Stair Rail

[Len Rosenberg]

Greetings Creekers! I'm replacing the spindles and rails of a set of stairs in my house. The parts are all Red Oak, very hard, very dense. The angle is 50 degrees. I need to drill about 20 11/16" holes at a 50 degree angle into the underside of the 6010 handrail. I made a jig using the Rockler angle drilling unit, but the Red Oak is so dense that I can't get the drill bit to bite into the wood and drill at 50 degrees. I could rig this up on a drill press but the hand rail is 11 feet long, and I have a low ceiling in my shop. Any suggestions on how to drill these holes accurately?

Thanks,

Len

[Jason Roehl]

I would maybe use a smaller bit, like a 1/4” bit to drill a small dimple in the right place (perpendicularly) first, then go back with the correct bit and drill the hole. Perhaps even a center punch would make enough of a depression to get the bit to bite.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Things I imagine trying, make your own guide for a brand new aircraft twist brill bit, or create a custom spade bit with a point long enough to get the center started before the rest of the bit starts cutting.

484586 484587

[Walter Plummer]

Years ago when I installed handrails we used spade bits to drill the holes. The older spade bits had longer points than the newer ones. The longer point lets you get on the center mark and still be plumb. Sometimes I would have to start at a slight angle to get the point to start then bring the drill bit plumb. We installed the rails first and drilled by hand in place after plumbing up the center marks. as long as you keep the spade bit sharp it drilled well. Good luck.

[Lee Schierer]

I did a quick google search and found this jig that looks like it would do the job. Bore Buster (https://www.woodstairs.com/using-the-bore-buster-to-drill-handrail/) It is a bit pricey at $1095.95, but there may be a used one out there. There are at least two used ones on the big used stuff web site. With 20 holes to drill and the cost of your materials and time it could be a bargain.

[Steve Demuth]

I did a quick google search and found this jig that looks like it would do the job. Bore Buster (https://www.woodstairs.com/using-the-bore-buster-to-drill-handrail/) It is a bit pricey at $1095.95, but there may be a used one out there. There are at least two used ones on the big used stuff web site. With 20 holes to drill and the cost of your materials and time it could be a bargain.

A bit pricey? That might be the Sawmill Creek understatement of the week.

[Steve Demuth]

I would build a one-off jig from hardwood the same width as the rail, with plywood sides that slip over the rail and which can thus be used to clamp the jig firmly to the rail. A guide hole in the hardwood core should hold up for 20 uses. But if you're concerned that won't be the case, oversize the guide hole in the wood, and put in a bronze bushing - you should be able to get a 3/4" ID bushing at your local hardware store.

[Robert M Richardson]

I've used end mills from time to time. You might try spotting your holes with https://drillsandcutters.com/11-16-x-1-2-hss-4-flute-single-end-end-mill-qualtech/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwxveXBhDDARIsAI0Q0x0SrKqHx0Z4aSu7OmN B8I6Lc_3r3AoNsbqPlz_n98A-FJLdfmX14m0aAkXxEALw_wcB and then finish drilling the holes with another bit. This one seems cheap but might wor.

[John Kananis]

Just dimple the rail with a nail set wherever you need to drill a hole and it should work just fine from there.

[Paul F Franklin]

I'd try a brad point or forstner bit since they can start cutting from the rim of the bit before the center hits. A wood block with the hole at proper angle should be all the guide you need.

[Dan Friedrichs]

I built a jig for this, once, and it was not difficult at all.... Just a block of wood with a hole drilled through (at the drill press) and some "flanges" to clamp. I think you've got something weird going on. Is your jig really tight and well-clamped? Bit new and sharp?

[Bill Dufour]

Check the drill bit for sharpness. Try it on some scrap at 90 degrees. Might try a aircraft step drill for a hole length pilot. Use a bushing in the jig for the smaller starter drill.
Bill D.

[Mel Fulks]

I built a jig for this, once, and it was not difficult at all.... Just a block of wood with a hole drilled through (at the drill press) and some "flanges" to clamp. I think you've got something weird going on. Is your jig really tight and well-clamped? Bit new and sharp?

My first impression of that pic was “why is that guy in the chair …up in the air ? And …I don’t trust that proctologist!”

[Jim Dwight]

I'm with Walter. I put in a couple short runs of handrail when I rebuilt one of the staircases in my house. The handrail is red oak, the spindles are black steel. I just drilled the holes with a spade bit after the handrail was in place. Eyeballing the angle should get you close enough if you are careful. No harm in starting at a bit lower angle and rotating into the angle you really want. The hole should be a little oversize. At least 1/16th. You can pin wood spindles with a 23 gauge pin to avoid any rattling.

[Len Rosenberg]

Thanks to all for the great suggestions! I'm sure one or more will work.

Len

[John TenEyck]

As a couple of others said - spade bit. I've done it a couple of times and the long-pointed ones work at pretty extreme angles. I had an odd size hole to drill, too, and took a larger spade bit and ground the sides down to get the size needed.

John

[Len Rosenberg]

My first thought was “50°?!” They must be tiring stairs to climb.

You are correct. I re-measured, and got 43 degrees (these are basement stairs, tight space).

[Ronald Blue]

I would get a drill bushing and a brad point bit to bore the hole. The brad point bit is a little expensive in that size. So you could also use a smaller bore drill bushing and brad point bit. 1/2" is readily available and would create a flat that you could then start the 11/16" into. Just another way to approach it. Even with only 20 holes the drill is going to wear into the side of the wood in your guide.

https://www.mcmaster.com/Drill-Bushings/for-drill-bit-size~11-16/

https://www.mcmaster.com/brad-point-drill-bits/

[Tom Bender]

I built a jig for this, once, and it was not difficult at all.... Just a block of wood with a hole drilled through (at the drill press) and some "flanges" to clamp. I think you've got something weird going on. Is your jig really tight and well-clamped? Bit new and sharp?

Dan I like your simple jig. I think it would not work with a spade bit but should work well as you show it or with a forester bit. I might add a clamp or two across the handrail. And I might make two or three bore holes in case the first one started to wear. And wax would help.

[David Bassett]

You can search this topic on the Lost Art Press blog. Chris has written about bits for drilling holes at arbitrary angles used in his chair making. IIRC- old spade bits work well, but newer ones have all sorts of issues. it seems like he's now settled on one of the WoodOwl auger bits, but double check as they have several models.