Well now I gota crack

[Jim Dunn]

In the ambrosia maple. I'm wondering when to seal it? Now as I rough it out or after it drys. Oh yeah it's in a box I'm making on the lathe. Rather smallish at as roughed 3" long and 3" in diameter.

Oh and what to seal it with? I have cya glue, but do I pry open the crack just a little to get it in there farther? As this lathe green wood stuff is completely new to me I'm gonna have lots of ?'s

Where is John Hart when you need him??? Oh yeah, putting up hay for "Princess the Horse":):)

Jim

[Ernie Nyvall]

Jim, you mention prying the crack apart. Does that mean it goes all the way through the walls and up through the rim, and in green wood? If so, I'd toss it. If not, I personally wouldn't pry it apart, but use some thin ca glue and soak the crack, and above and below the crack in the direction it is running.

If you are going to put a green turning up in a bag to dry, then use anchor seal on the end grain right when you finish turning.

Ernie

[Jim Dunn]

Ernie the crack is about 1/2" long running with the grain. I can flex it a little and thought the CA glue would maybe not run into it all the way. I seem to be wrong as the CA ran right in and set up stabilizing the crack. At least that is what it seem to have done. I'm soaking it overnight in DNA to remove the moisture. I'll check it again after it has drained but before I wrap it.

Your suggestion about the anchor seal leads me to another question. If the entire blank is anchor sealed does it ever completely dry. Does anchor seal allow moisture to ecsape? Does the anchor seal stand up to DNA?

So many questions so little time:)

Jim

[Ernie Nyvall]

Your suggestion about the anchor seal leads me to another question. If the entire blank is anchor sealed does it ever completely dry. Does anchor seal allow moisture to ecsape? Does the anchor seal stand up to DNA?

So many questions so little time:)

Jim

Jim, you didn't mention DNA in your first post and you asked about sealing it, so I was explaining what to do if you were going to dry it in a sack. It wouldn't be the entire blank anyway if done this way...just the end-grain.

You don't use the anchor seal if you do the DNA, and you do go ahead and seal the crack with the ca glue. When the glue is dry though... a couple of minutes later, you should put it in the DNA.

You have also raised a question with me. If you can flex it to open the crack, how thin did you turn it? Green wood needs to be left about 1/2" thick for a 3" turning to account for cutting the warp out when it dries.

Sorry for the mixup. Hope this clears it up.

Ernie

[Andy Hoyt]

....Your suggestion about the anchor seal leads me to another question. If the entire blank is anchor sealed does it ever completely dry. Does anchor seal allow moisture to ecsape?....

Jim - 99% of the time, you only anchor seal the end grain. The purpose is to slow down the moisture leaving through the end grain to the point where it (in theory) matches the rate at which moisture leaves through the side grain.

If the moisture departs the wood evenly all the way around then the chances of splitting or checking or shaking are markedly reduced.

I have no experience as to the interaction between anchor seal, DNA, and CA glue. That's way too much science for for me.

[Jim Dunn]

Well Ernie it's about 3/4" thick and it's going to be the edge of the lid, hopefully. Hey if it breaks I'll make a lid out of walnut. Should look good with that ambrosia maple.

Jim

[Jim Dunn]

Thanks Andy but you give yourself to little credit for glues and such.:) How else you going to make your device go off?

Jim

[Cody Colston]

I have cya glue, but do I pry open the crack just a little to get it in there farther?
Jim

I'm sorry, Jim, but that line struck me as awfully funny. :)

I'd put thin CA glue on it right away and then let it dry. Keep your face shield on while turning, though. ;)

[John Hart]

I didn't see this thread til just now....I was out tending Princess. ;)

I'd like to throw something else in here....just as an observation of course. I was having a heck of a time with blanks cracking when I was sealing just the ends. So then I started sealing the ends and a little bit down the sides, and that seemed to work better. It seems that along the edges, moisture escapes fast enough to get the crack started.
When I send blanks to people, I coat the whole thing...but for my own...I just do the ends and a little down the side.

Cody...That was too funny! :D