Will Silicone stick to wood and stainless steel?

[Clarence Martinn]

Making a wood travel mug with the stainless-steel liner. Want to have the liner permanently inserted into the wood travel mug, AND make sure no water slips in between them. Will regular Silicone stick to the wood and the steel liner, if I just put a bead around the outside the liner and slip it into the wood mug?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Silicone is a versatile and heat resistant adhesive. I think it's a good choice. I would get the fish safe aquarium version.

[Andrew Seemann]

For external use at least, I have never found that silicone adheres well to wood. It sticks well initially, but after repeated expansions and contractions it frequently releases. Whether that would also affect a coffee cup, I cannot say though.

[mreza Salav]

It would stick but might not last especially with heat from hot tea/coffee. I would use heat resistant caulking.

[andy bessette]

Silicone caulk will probably be OK.

[Greg Parrish]

If worried about heat, go to your local auto parts store and grab a tube of high temp gasket sealant. There are silicone versions that are red in color and made for making engine sealants.

https://www.permatex.com/products/gasketing/red-gasket-makers/permatex-ultra-red-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-3-35-oz/

[Gordon Stump]

One of my biggest fails. I was commissioned to make large letters for a sign for a music store. I bought red plexiglass and asked the supplier how to glue it onto plywood. He said silicone. After a few weeks up on the building the plastic came raining down one at a time just missing pedestrians below. I did it over with construction adhesive. The owners WERE friends!

[Bob Riefer]

If I'm understanding correctly... In the case of the OP's design, the metal sleeve fits snugly inside the wooden 'jacket'... Without any adhesive at all, suction will want to keep those parts somewhat together. With silicone applied as OP mentioned, it seems to me that a whole lot would need to somehow go wrong for it to come apart (i.e., the silicone doesn't need to do that much work as compared to other applications you could think of).

I'd try the silicone, thinking it will do fine... and knowing that any unlikely future failure really isn't too hard to remedy.

[Frank Pratt]

Silicone, contrary to popular belief is not particularly versatile and is not, with a few exceptions, even a good adhesive. There are almost always better choices. It will not adhere well to wood. A polyurethane caulk will seal well and stick it together permanently.

[Tom M King]

I don't know what Lexel is, but I've had better luck with it sticking to various surfaces, for much longer, than silicone, and it's perfectly clear. I would think there is a particular adhesive just for this purpose, but I have no idea what it is, or where to find it.

[Greg Funk]

In this application the adhesive properties are less important than sealing. Silicone is flexible and if you can ensure decent coverage it should provide a good seal that will stand up to any expected movement of the wood. FDA approved silicone sealants are inexpensive and typically good to 350+F. Seems like a good choice.

Polyurethane construction adhesives (e.g. Loctite PLMax, PL400 etc) typically have a much lower temperature rating (around 160F). Not sure what happens to them at high temps but I'd stick (NPI) with silicone.

[michael langman]

I don't know what Lexel is, but I've had better luck with it sticking to various surfaces, for much longer, than silicone, and it's perfectly clear. I would think there is a particular adhesive just for this purpose, but I have no idea what it is, or where to find it.

When my chimney was rebuilt the Mason that did it told me to use lexel and skip the silicone for caulking the flashing. I had never heard of it. Lexel is so much more long lasting then silicone. It is unbelievably that good.

[Mike Kees]

I have used silicone to install the really cheap three piece plastic corner showers. Also have installed mirrors onto drywall that is already painted. These two applications work really good. Just ask the drug dealer who was my tenant and punched the mirror four times. I ended up having to cut the drywall out to remove this mirror for replacement.

[Frank Pratt]

When my chimney was rebuilt the Mason that did it told me to use lexel and skip the silicone for caulking the flashing. I had never heard of it. Lexel is so much more long lasting then silicone. It is unbelievably that good.

It also has many times the stretch and recovery of silicone. It's better than silicone in most every way.

[Mark Gibney]

What a nightmare! Seems you can now see the funny side.

[Greg Funk]

It also has many times the stretch and recovery of silicone. It's better than silicone in most every way.Except it's made with toluene so not food safe. I wouldn't use it on a coffee mug

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Silicone is one of the few sealants that will be food safe.

483695

[Frank Pratt]

Except it's made with toluene so not food safe. I wouldn't use it on a coffee mug
It's just to secure the liner to the outer shell. The interior of the mug is not going to be smeared with sealant. And the toluene evaporates as the sealant dries and cures.

[andy bessette]

It's just to secure the liner to the outer shell. The interior of the mug is not going to be smeared with sealant. And the toluene evaporates as the sealant dries and cures.

No. The sealant is at the interface which will come in contact with the user's mouth.

[Frank Pratt]

No. The sealant is at the interface which will come in contact with the user's mouth.

If that's the case, then Lexel is out. I've never seen one of those mugs and am not familiar with the details.