Bessy I-Beam clamps

[Robert L Stewart]

I am considering a purchase of these: Bessy I-Beam 48 in. Capacity Heavy-Duty Industrial Bar Clamp.

I was able to use a set recently and found that Titebond II glue stuck to the beam. It was
very time consuming to remove. It felt like I was removing epoxy. Has anyone found
a material besides temporary tape to remedy this?

Perhaps a good coat of buffed out paste wax.

Robertr

[Kevin Jenness]

Paste wax.

[David Zaret]

i use these clamps for large glue ups (passage doors, countertops, etc.). wax the bars. wire wheel on a grinder removes stuck-on glue. sometimes these slip... .if they do, put a flap disc on the grinder and just impart a small cross-hatch on the bar, and they won't slip anymore.

[Jim Becker]

Waxing the bars can help. The alternative that many folks use is to adjust the clamps close to the needed adjustment and apply tape to cover the metal that's under the material being glued. This method can also help protect against staining as some wood species can be reactive to certain metals when moisture is present.

[glenn bradley]

The nature of these clamps means that waxing the bars will not cause any problems. That being said we all know where we are going to put glue and where it is going to obey gravity. We learn this during our assembly dry run. I just stick bits of tape where the glue joint will be. :confused:

483599

I apply the tape during the dry run and it is just there when I do the real glue up. I do not notice glue sticking to the I-Beams any more than other clamps. TB-III can be quite gummy if it gets into things. The same quality that makes it great for stress joints makes it tenacious when it gets where it shouldn't.

[Patrick Kane]

Hey Robert, I have the Jorgensen version of that clamp, and the majority of mine are used. And not gently used, either. These suckers are probably 30+ years of industrial use. I love them, and they will last the rest of my WWing life. Not to say the bessey revo k bodies won’t, but they are two different animals.

As far as excess glue, I don’t bother with it unless it interferes with the movement of the clutch. When that happens I have a POS beater chisel that is as blunt as the day is long. Hit the dried glue with enough force and it shatters off the bar. It’s somewhat impossible to hurt the bar, so you can use excessive force.

[Bryan Hall]

I sloppily cover mine in paste wax when I first get them, don't wipe the excess off, don't buff. Just let it dry on them. Have been using them for years and have never had glue stick to them that can't be easily peeled off by hand. No tape necessary.

[Philip Glover]

I use strips of wax paper, whatever length is needed, to cover the bars.
The strips run perpendicular to the bars.

Regards,
PCG

[Alan Lightstone]

I asked a similar question here 9 years ago (as have many others) on how to remove TBII or TBIII
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?210798-What-s-the-easiest-way-to-remove-glue-from-parallel-clamps&highlight=glue

Heat guns, vinegar, acetone, all sorts of chemicals suggested. Wire wheel and scraper too. But the best suggestions, were how to avoid getting there in the first place, which seem to be paste wax (except now you can't get Johnson's Paste wax as it's been discontinued), masking tape, wax paper, etc... I like Brian's suggestion above to coat them with paste wax when purchasing and don't remove the excess when it dries. Wish I had known that.

Personally, I now use wax paper. Except when I forget :(

[Mark Wooden]

Gulf Wax canning wax, availible at the grocery store. Just rub it on the bar once in a while. Lubes the clamp, doesnt have evaporative spirits in it, wont transfer into woodwork unless you heat it.
Also good for the bottoms and runners on crosscut sleds and the worm gears and trunnions on tablesaws. Lubricates and doesnt draw/hold dust