Shop Cabinet Drawers Bowing

[Paul McIntyre]

I made 3 plywood boxes and put plywood drawers in them for my shop. Built them probably 10 years ago. I used cheap slides for them. Something similar to these:

https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-7212-Drawer-Slide-Kit/dp/B00E8AF0OE/ref=asc_df_B00E8AF0OE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193166724913&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=15203563872790937063&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014895&hvtargid=pla-340513059084&th=1

For the last few years it appears that the sides of the boxes have bowed out and the drawer slides fall off of the track or slide on the cabinet side. Is this simply because they are cheap slides or issues with my construction? Can I fix it by replacing with decent slides?

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

Replacing slides without correcting the overriding issue doesn't sound like the best plan. See if you can reinforce the cabinet carcases so they are once again true or close to true and then make a decision about the slides.

[Paul McIntyre]

Thanks. Do you have an suggestions on how to do that? I used 3/4 ply for all sides. I did not do any face frame or cross member on the carcass front. I'm guessing some type of middle cross member might solve the problem.

[Paul F Franklin]

I agree with Jim. Even good side mount slides do not like to have the two halves pulled apart (or pressed together, for that matter). For smooth operation they need to have the correct clearance without side forces either way. They might pull the sides in, but they won't operated smoothly.

Could you insert a full width shelf under one of the drawers that would pull in the case sides without robbing too much of the usable space in the drawer below?

[Michael Schuch]

Thanks. Do you have an suggestions on how to do that? I used 3/4 ply for all sides. I did not do any face frame or cross member on the carcass front. I'm guessing some type of middle cross member might solve the problem.

That is what I was going to suggest. Some sort of mid cross member. A strip of sheet metal with the ends bent at 90 is what I would probably do. I am sure a piece of wood glued and screwed to the two sides would work too.

How heavy is the stuff on the drawers? If the front us bowed too a drawer face might help keep it ridgid.

Was the plywood the junk from HD that comes pre-bowed? I hate buying plywood from them because they store it with a plank in the center that makes sure it has a biw in it.

[Jim Becker]

Perhaps you can sandwich a cross frame on the inside "between" two drawers that will help you straighten out the cabinet. If you have to adjust externally, fastening other material, such as steel C-channel (doesn't have to be big and heavy" or even additional plywood, can help pull the cabinet sides to flat.

[andy bessette]

I made 3 plywood boxes and put plywood drawers in them...it appears that the sides of the boxes have bowed out and the drawer slides fall off of the track ...

This is simply a design shortcoming. The sides of the box require an intermediate support. If you are serious about getting help post photos.

[Richard Coers]

I glue in the plywood bottoms for just this reason. The drawer sides will never move where it counts on the slides. As a fix I suggest you pull the sides in to flat and staple or pin through the bottom into the sides. A bead of glue under the bottom sure wouldn't hurt.

[Paul F Franklin]

I glue in the plywood bottoms for just this reason. The drawer sides will never move where it counts on the slides. As a fix I suggest you pull the sides in to flat and staple or pin through the bottom into the sides. A bead of glue under the bottom sure wouldn't hurt.

Richard, The way I read it the OP's cabinet sides are bowing, not the drawer sides....

[Lee Schierer]

I glue in the plywood bottoms for just this reason. The drawer sides will never move where it counts on the slides. As a fix I suggest you pull the sides in to flat and staple or pin through the bottom into the sides. A bead of glue under the bottom sure wouldn't hurt.

When making drawers with either wood sides or plywood sides with a plywood bottom, it is safe to glue the sides, front and back to the plywood bottom as linear expansion/contraction due to moisture changes is very, very small. It makes for a more robust drawer box. Yes, it does make it hard to replace the drawer bottom should that ever become necessary.

The cabinets that hold the drawers should have cross pieces or frames that keep the sides of the cabinet from bowing out. Even metal filing cabinets have metal cross pieces to prevent bowing of the sides due to weight.

[Paul McIntyre]

Thanks everyone. I'm going to try some type of cross member.

[Lee Schierer]

This is where a Kreg pocket hole jig would come in handy. Determine the proper inside cabinet width, cut a piece of 3/4" x 2" wood to that length, drill four pocket holes in that pice. Two on each end and instalbthe new brace with four pocket screws. You may need to clamp the cabinet sides in for the brace to fit properly.

[Malcolm McLeod]

This is where a Kreg pocket hole jig would come in handy. Determine the proper inside cabinet width, cut a piece of 3/4" x 2" wood to that length, drill four pocket holes in that pice. Two on each end and instalbthe new brace with four pocket screws. You may need to clamp the cabinet sides in for the brace to fit properly.

^+1
For a slightly more rigorous solution - - I think Mr. Cohen may call it a 'drawer blade', Mr. Becker called it a 'cross frame' above, and I see some case-piece plans call it a 'drawer support'*, but by any name, I'd create a pocket-screwed frame of similar material as Capt. Schierer outlines - - and then pocket screw this into the case sides.

*-If using guides, it has no true 'support' function, but it is similarly located.

[Richard Coers]

Richard, The way I read it the OP's cabinet sides are bowing, not the drawer sides....
Reread and you are right, my mistake! I guess dust boards like in a dresser would be the real fix then.

[Scott Clausen]

May not be what you want to hear but ply that has been under stress (bowing) for ten years may resist an effort to bring back to plumb. I would redo the carcass and either move to a quality slide rated for the weight the drawer will carry. Or modify the drawers to accommodate a good old fashioned wood slide and wax it. At the price of slides these days I think I will go old school and go all wood for my future shop furniture.

[Tom Bender]

My tool cabinet is 74" tall and has 17 drawers. Straight grained KD Ash. It has no cross supports. All the drawers work perfectly after 20 years. If I built it today I would add a cross support about halfway up for insurance.

483575

In your case my guess is that there is stuff piled on top of the cases, adding to the problem.

Can you put the cases side by side and attach them, that would help. Then a solid wood top would help with the stuff on top.

Face frames would fix it.

Is there a back on the cases?

[andy bessette]

Nice work Tom.