bevel cuts on tablesaw

[charlie spencer]

I am making 45 degree bevel cuts on 3/4"x7" cypress boards and the ends of the boards are crowned about 1/32" in the center. I am able to maintain good contact between the board and the miter gauge through the cut. Any ideas?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I use a sled more than the mitre gauge and would probably try to get the boards flat before cutting.

[Bill Dufour]

Cross cut or lengthwise?
Bill D

[charlie spencer]

thanks, good ideas

[charlie spencer]

I believe Maurice may be right about the flatness . This is for a birdhouse and I did not check the boards.

[Brian Tymchak]

If you are using a miter gauge, you are making a miter cut across a board. A bevel cut would use the rip fence with the blade at something less than 90°.

Mitering a slightly bowed board should be safe with the crown up, so the board doesn't rock. Rehearse the cut to make sure the board doesn't catch on anything, like the insert.

[andy bessette]

Make the miter cuts using a bandsaw or chopsaw. Or do them by hand with a miter box.

[Lee Schierer]

I am making 45 degree bevel cuts on 3/4"x7" cypress boards and the ends of the boards are crowned about 1/32" in the center. I am able to maintain good contact between the board and the miter gauge through the cut. Any ideas?

You can bevel the 7" wide ends of the boards using your miter gauge. Place the concave side against the table to prevent rocking while making the cut. The 1/32 crown will prevent you from getting perfect joints when you assemble the bevels to each other, but for a bird house it is not likely to matter. The birds certainly won't care that there are slight gaps. When cutting bevels on the ends of boards it is important to use a zero clearance insert. If you are cutting off the extreme end of a piece the little triangular scrap can drop down into the blade slot and jam. This may potentially damage your blade and will likely make a really loud bang when it happens.

[Wes Grass]

If the concave side is down, and it doesn't rock, the bevel cut will be planar and should mate without a gap. Holding a straightedge to the feather edge will show a crown. If one board is cupped, and another flat, the edges won't mate up perfectly. But that's what sandpaper is for.

483085

[Tom Bender]

...When cutting bevels on the ends of boards it is important to use a zero clearance insert. If you are cutting off the extreme end of a piece the little triangular scrap can drop down into the blade slot and jam. This may potentially damage your blade and will likely make a really loud bang when it happens.

Or you can start with longer piece and cut off an extra 1/2" when making the miter cut.