Drywall sandpaper

[Mark Rainey]

482881Got some drywall sandpaper after taping and spackling ceiling damage from water. Have some leftover paper. I think i should be able to use this for woodoworking? Any thoughts.

[Jim Becker]

Likely usable but may or may not perform the same way as what you normally use for your wood sanding.

[Alex LaZella]

I think most of the drywall sandpaper is around 100 to 120 grit so you should be fine. I have found that unless I am doing rooms and rooms of taping that it is just as easy to use my regular ROS to smooth drywall mud. Using a vacuum and the sander makes for a dust free quickly smoothed taping experience.

good luck

[Tom M King]

That says 150. I think it's just an odd size to fit the sheetrock sanding pad, and is just Silicon Carbide sandpaper. Some of it has PSA backing, and some a soft velcro interface. It should work fine on wood. These days, I do as little sanding as possible also, and use a 6" ROS with good dust collection, and supplied air to me.

[Mark Rainey]

Jim, Alex, Tom, thanks for your advice!

[Rich Engelhardt]

Got some drywall sandpaper after taping and spackling ceiling damage from water. Have some leftover paper. I think i should be able to use this for woodoworking? Any thoughts.If those are the screen type, I've used those for sanding wood in the past.
Pretty much a waste of good sanding screens.
They work, but...

[Mark Rainey]

If those are the screen type, I've used those for sanding wood in the past.
Pretty much a waste of good sanding screens.
They work, but...
Rich, they are not the screen type.

[Charles Lent]

I use a large dampened sponge. I keep about 4 gallons of water in a 5 gallon pail and rinse out the sponge frequently. I scrape the high spots off before by using a wide taping knife, and then just go at it with the dampened sponge. No dust and no sandpaper. It takes a little practice, and you don't want to over dampen the joint, just wipe off the bumps. With a loaded sponge, I also wipe the paper surface of the sheetrock to give it a similar texture to help keep the whole wall the same texture. No dust to breathe and clean up. I've been doing it this way for over 60 years. My uncle, a builder, taught me this and I've not sanded another drywall seam since.

When taping joints, it helps to have a light source that you can use up against the drywall and shining across the joint to easily see the bumps and valleys as you work. I use a fluorescent mechanics trouble light in one hand with the taping knife in the other when doing the final coat of taping compound, so I can better see what I am doing.

Charley

[Tom M King]

I use a sponge before the final coat, but do a little sanding on the last coat. I clamp a light to the hawk, and hold the light right against the wall shining across it. You can see a spec on the wall and the slightest imperfection. I do the same thing with auto/boat bodywork.