EFSTS part 8 of ????

[Paul B. Cresti]

Hello everyone again it is I once again with a new report from ........ me :)

Ok so I have mentioned in the past of all the great things you can do with a EFSTS and how the old American CS is archaic but many people still can not see how it replaces that archaic saw... well I have an idea to show you. Now bear in mind this is a working prototype so think of it as a work in progress.

I have been trying to think of a way to use my slider to all its benefits. Ripping solid stock to a final dimension without needing any edge joining or planing to the correct dimension has been on my mind for quite some time. Think about, for us small one man shops, if you could rip to the final dimension right from a board that has it correct thickness what kind of time that could save you. Now on top of this add the safety of not having your hands near the blade! Sounds good doesn't it? Well I was trying to figure this out and I think I am at least now heading in the right direction.

My idea was to use a ripping jig that could be placed on the slider side that would make use of that repetitive fixed track of motion, use some type of clamping system that keeps your hands away from the blade but at the same time be able to be quickly removed to be able to jump right into another function.

This is what I have so far:

Pic#1 shows the jig on the outrigger table without any stock loaded. You will notice the red handle clamps are the stock holders (I have various hole postions to change for different size stock) the eccentric clamps on the slider are for holding the jig firmly. Also note the jig fits over the main crosscut fence.

Pic#2 this is the back of the jig. Notice how it fits over the main crosscut fence. You will also see the three carriage bolts with wings nuts sticking out. Those are there to provide a snug fit against the crosscut fence. They are pushing on a piece of plastic the gives the correct fit but yet allows the jig to slide along the fence. Kind of works like the Festool system where you tighten those little screws to snug the travel along the guide rail

Pic#3 & Pic#4 shows the stock clamped down before and after it passes through the completely covered blade. You can see the holes in the jig for placement of the clamps in different positions or to be able to add more clamps. Currently I can rip something as narrow as about 1" with the guard in place as the clamps get in the way. My main intention is for parts like 2" and wider, more along the lines of face frames for cabinets, styles and rails for doors ..... things that require a lot of pieces.

continued in next thread...................

[Paul B. Cresti]

Pic#5 shows how I can tell the dimension of the rip. This whole jig kind of works like one big "flip stop" except it does not flip. It is completely referenced off of the main crosscut fence so its accuracy is dependent on it. What I did after I made the jig is place it down/ slide it over so that it would actually get cut by the blade. What this did is now give me a perfectly squared edge to place stock against plus it is this cut edge in which I "read" off of my main fence.

Pic#6 & 7 shows how the sliding snug bar works. It is nothing other than one of those pieces of plastic we all makes jigs with but it fits inside a small cavity on the inside of the portion that touches the crosscut fence. The box that sourrounds the main crosccut fence is a hair bigger and then by tightening those bolts the plastic is forced against the fence and keeps the whole jig square and tight to it. This will also allow for wear in the jig. Every surface has been waxed with paste wax so it does slide nicely.


Areas for improvements:
I still need a better clamping system. Preferrably ones that slides in and out quickly but yet does not deflect under pressure. I can also see the need for special jigs for very long rips, maybe there can be some sort of add on. I need to come with a way to clamp down the middle of the edge that faces the stock being ripped, as this edge does come up a hair when you apply the stock clamps.

What I like
It does give accurate rips. My hands are not near the blade. This jig is attached as quickly as it comes off without any modifications to the saw. I can be ripping and then take the jig off and keep crosscutting or even jump into working with large stock or sheetgoods.


So my point is I am learning more and more everyday how much something as simple as a sliding table can help out in the shop. Yes someone could have special machines setup throughout the shop to do some of these task but for me in my small one man shop I can do an awful lot. My jobs seem to be getting bigger and bigger yet my equipment handles it with ease, accuracy and SAFETY.

[Paul B. Cresti]

sorry this should have been the last pic :D

[Allen Grimes]

Haha I was wondering what that miter saw was doing in there.

Unfortunately I didnt even know that sliders existed when I bought my table saw. If I did I would have just bought a circular saw and waited until I could afford a slider. I will always regret that purchase, but since I have to deal with it I will make the best of it.

Anyway, I like that system you made. Im sure I could by an excalibur sliding table and make a jig like that for my table saw.

[Jim Becker]

Very nice idea, Paul. Thanks for sharing it!

[Greg Hairston]

Thanks Paul,
I will be in the shop this week making one of those for my slider. Excellent idea and so simple I wonder why I did not think of it.

Greg

[Paul B. Cresti]

Greg,
Please let me know what you come with. Would be very interested in what someone elses view point comes up with.

[lou sansone]

Thanks for the update. I am sure that as time progresses that design will get more refined. who knows, maybe someday there will be a crestmier fence

lou

[Steve Stube]

How about another base board to plop on top of the first with an accurate 90 butted to the fence (not fastened) and to which you bolt your clamps along the adjacent edge and clamp it via "T" slot perpendicular to the cut line in the first base board. The "T" slot with "T" bolt and locking handle will make it easy to adjust for the width of cut and perhaps only one "T" will be needed as you obtain square from the fence.

Hope I have it right on this edit.

[Paul B. Cresti]

How about another base board to plop on top of the first with an accurate 90 butted to the fence (not fastened) and to which you bolt your clamps along the adjacent edge and clamp it via "T" slot perpendicular to the cut line in the first base board. The "T" slot with "T" bolt and locking handle will make it easy to adjust for the width of cut and perhaps only one "T" will be needed as you obtain square from the fence.

Hope I have it right on this edit.

Steve,
Yes I went through ideas like you stated. I even was considering using pieces of wood that would have bevels on them (like a french cleat or basically a large sliding dovetail) but the problem is the clamps I have chosen to use. Their base needs to be as close to the sliding table as possible because the higher they go up the less ability they have to work with thinner material plus have less clamping pressure. My thinking is that this jig may work better in a different material all together. It my work well in some type of machined aluminum so that it could be thinner (yet stronger) and not be weakened by slots or holes bored into it.....maybe then a "T" like slot could be added to the top of the main "board" so that the clamp can slide along it. It would be a similiar arrangment as to how the crosscut fence stops slide on the main crosscut fence.

[tod evans]

paul, please correct me if i`m wrong. isn`t all of this a way to avoid using the standard rip fence? tod

[Paul B. Cresti]

paul, please correct me if i`m wrong. isn`t all of this a way to avoid using the standard rip fence? tod

Geez man there you go and spoil all of my fun ;) Yes it is to replace using the standard rip and the motion of pushing the wood through the cut by ones hands (and provide smooth consistent cuts without needing to run through a jointer for smooth surfaces or planer for the final consistant width pass). It is just like mounting a power feeder to a cabinet saw or using a rip saw. I do not have the room to have all of those machines (or money at this point) so I am using each piece of equipment I have to its fullest possibilities. Did I mention I really like my fingers too!

[Ed Kowaski]

There's a jig in here?!.. Really never noticed, to busy looking at the fit and finish on the saw. :)

[Ed Kowaski]

You have a feeder, you have a saw, you need a way to get the feeder from point A to B or shaper to saw.

Ed

[Paul B. Cresti]

You have a feeder, you have a saw, you need a way to get the feeder from point A to B or shaper to saw.

Ed

You are right in some sense, but I am stubborn :) I want to keep the feeder on the shaper and use the saw for its specific functions, including making dados now that I have a saw/router setup. I am trying to become efficient as possible in my machining operations so that I have more time for assembling and finishing.