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John Keeton
07-08-2022, 5:02 PM
As many of you know over the last couple of years I have accumulated dozens of drawknives - an addiction, actually. I have rehabbed/restored all of those to a nice, functional condition with an extremely sharp edge through a process I have used for years on other edge tools of various types. I kept those that I really, really liked and the excess knives were sold - many of them on SMC. I have had many requests from some of the buyers and other creekers on my sharpening methods. I have shared that with many, but it was a narrative with no pics.

Recently, there seems to have been a significant change in the quality of knives available - it has been suggested I bought all the good ones!?!? And, the prices on those that are available have become ridiculous. It takes quite a bit of time, as in hours, to rehabilitate most of these knives. After all, many of them are 150-175 years old and have been heavily used. Along with cleaning up the blades, fixing the spine where it had been used as a froe and sharpening them, I have turned replacement handles for many of them, shortened the original handles slightly and re-peened them to tighten the handles, and refinished handles that could be saved.

It was never about the money - I have a very comfortable retirement. I actually enjoyed the process, really enjoyed researching the history of the knives, and seeing them brought back into use. But, I will be 74 in a few months and none of us know the plans the Lord has for us. I want to use whatever time I have left to enjoy building Windsors, being with our fairly large family now with 6 great grandchildren, and traveling some now that my wife has pulled back from some of her involvement in activities.

In any event, it was just taking too much time and effort. So, this past week I announced my "retirement" from rehabbing drawknives. When I did, Scott Winners suggested I post a thread with my sharpening method. So, I have taken some pics to help explain the process and compiled a PDF that is attached to this post. I hope folks find it helpful.

Scott Clausen
07-08-2022, 6:05 PM
Thank you John

I think I was supposed to buy some of your work but life gets busy and I missed the opportunity. I greatly appreciate your PDF (when I get time to see it). Enjoy your retirement.

Edward Weber
07-08-2022, 6:34 PM
Thanks John

Jim Koepke
07-08-2022, 8:26 PM
Another Thanks John.

jtk

Andrew Pitonyak
07-08-2022, 9:19 PM
Thanks, looks like a nice resource to review....

Keegan Shields
07-08-2022, 9:50 PM
Thanks John! Years of wisdom packed into this .pdf.

Scott Winners
07-09-2022, 6:00 AM
Yay!! I do have your not illustrated narrative in my email box, but the pdf is the bee's knees. Besides your kids and your grands and your greats, you have packed a little bit of legacy into the .pdf too. Thank you.

Prashun Patel
07-09-2022, 8:04 AM
I bought a drawknife (and a few other things over the years) from John. It was better than good to go out of the box. He’s a pro.

Thanks for the tutorial, John.

I empathize with your addiction. There really is no tool like a drawknife. It demands we understand the grain of the wood like no other tool. In some applications it is the most efficient, clean milling tool there is.

Anyway, thanks for making this journey easier for me, John.

David Bolson
07-09-2022, 9:54 AM
Thank you!

Todd Trebuna
07-09-2022, 10:24 AM
I was too slow to score the last ones you have offered, but I resonate with the addiction. I have 2 so far and I have limited myself to not buying anymore until I actually carve 10 things. I purchased them to work on a walnut rocker I am building for my grand daughter about to turn one. The 2 I have seem very good quality. This tutorial comes just in time. I sharpened one with a stone and it is cutting well, but it will be nice to actually learn how to do it.
also, I just read it and it is excellent. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I am new to the drawknife, but am anxious to try my hand at chair making. Been breaking in the drawhorse I made last weekend throughout the week. Since I work from home, I can jump in the work shop on my breaks. Lol.

Derek Cohen
07-10-2022, 4:44 AM
John, I wrote a very similar article on my website in 2014: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/SharpeningADrawknife.html

One aspect I would now change is that the back of the blade benefits from a slight camber, rather than being flat. I can see that a backbevel could also work. Without this, the blade has a tendency to dive (which is not due to the drawknife being used BU vs BD).

The other difference is that i do not run through 8 sandpaper grits, as you do, but three waterstones: 1000, 6000 and 13000.

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/SharpeningADrawknife_html_m585a0ee8.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/WoodworkTechniques/SharpeningADrawknife_html_4e0e0c80.jpg


Other than these few differences, our articles are close twins. :)


Regards from Perth

Derek

John Keeton
07-10-2022, 7:25 AM
Derek, I couldn’t possibly find myself in better company!!

Thanks to all who commented!

Izzy Camire
07-11-2022, 8:08 PM
Thanks John

Charles Taylor
07-11-2022, 10:51 PM
Yay!! I do have your not illustrated narrative in my email box, but the pdf is the bee's knees. Besides your kids and your grands and your greats, you have packed a little bit of legacy into the .pdf too. Thank you.

I too have an emailed version of John’s guide to go with a trio of drawknives I bought earlier in the year, but this PDF is excellent. Thank you, John.

Frederick Skelly
07-16-2022, 10:03 AM
Thank you John. Just what I was looking for. I appreciate you posting this!
Fred

David Zor
07-16-2022, 9:54 PM
Spot on John! I’m going to keep this on the corkboard as a handy reference for when too much time passes between drawknife use.