Power Feeder on Phenolic Top

[John Kananis]

Thinking of mounting my power feeder to my router table. I have the jessem phenolic top and a mini power feeder (the 1/8 hp model that everyone paints a different color and badges as theirs). I think the feeder weighs about 30lbs... bad idea? You think it would warp the top?

Edit: I have the mounting plate to help distribute some of the weight if mounting to the table isn't the best idea. I would have to use C clamps to hold it in place though as my fence rails prevent the L-clamp from fitting properly.

[Rod Sheridan]

I don’t think it would permanently warp however the force from the feeder may deform the top when it’s feeding a piece of stock if you use too much pressure on the feeder….Regards, Rod

[John Kananis]

Thanks for the input, Rod.

[Jim Becker]

My gut says you'd want to reinforce the table substantially. They weight of the device is what it is, but Rod's mention of the forces that come into play as the feeder, um...feeds...is also a factor. I'd consider a metal plate under the phenolic table so you'd be sandwiching the phenolic top and spreading all the forces out.

[John Kananis]

I thought about maybe mounting it to the wall behind the router table so the only stress would be during operation but not sure that it wouldn't actually move the table from the force (I could experiment with this one). The other idea I had was to mount a steel plate (similar to the one I have for the top) to the bottom of the table and through-bolt through the top and bottom plates with the table material sandwiched between but the table skirt would be in the way on the bottom.

[Jonathan Jung]

I have the same router table from Jessem and also have considerable experience with plastics. Yes, the phenolic will be able to deform under constant pressure, which is why there are the aluminum profile braces under the table to keep the router weight from making a bowl effect in the top. If the router can pull the table out of flat, so can a power feeder. It's one of my biggest regrets of getting the Jessem top. I would consider using a piece of right angle steel, mounted across the back of the router table, to mount a feeder, so that any deflection doesn't affect the routing surface.

[Bill Dufour]

No idea what that table looks like so... I would bolt some good sized angle vertically to both back legs. Weld or bolt a good sized angle between the two above the table level. use that to bolt the feeder to. Maybe more angle horizontally bolted to the wall to make a big enough flat area to bolt to.
Or perhaps a piece of pipe welded vertically to the base. pipe diameter to suit feed mount?
Bill D

[Warren Lake]

feather boards and hand feed. Every human is a power feeder.

[Jim Becker]

The other idea I had was to mount a steel plate (similar to the one I have for the top) to the bottom of the table and through-bolt through the top and bottom plates with the table material sandwiched between but the table skirt would be in the way on the bottom.

That was my thought...you can likely modify the skirt to accommodate, but I'm not familiar with the specific table you have.

[John Kananis]

Thanks, everyone, for the input thus far. The more I think about this, the more I'm considering wall mounting. If it pulls the table (shouldn't, it's pretty solid), I can add a shelf on the bottom and load it with tons of stuff. I have a couple of old motors that would do nicely for that. Also, mounting to the table will limit the fence's backwards travel.

[Jim Morgan]

Been there, done that.

I have a 1st generation Jessem router table with a ¾" phenolic top. I also have a power feeder - a ¼ hp Grizzly, somewhat heavier than what the OP has. I have used these together on several occasions, most recently to climb-cut molding in CVG Douglas fir for a set of eight window sashes.

I bolted a 10" length of oak 2 by 4 to the base of the power feeder to better distribute its weight and glued a piece of 100x sand paper to the bottom of the oak to eliminate slipping. I used a couple of c-clamps to secure the power feeder base to the front left corner of the router table. I did not notice any appreciable deflection of the table; there were certainly no residual effects.

[Greg Quenneville]

feather boards and hand feed. Every human is a power feeder.

I was going to upload the ER photo of when I removed 5% of a finger being a human power feeder. But we've all seen blood before, and a finger with a brand new ogee profile isn’t that appetising.

I would build a bracket to the back of the router table and mount the feeder to that. If you mount it to the wall you will have to lock the router table in place or reaction forces will want to feed the whole table as opposed to the workpiece.

[William Hodge]

I use a table saw cabinet for a router table. The top is 1/2" phenolic on a wooden frame. I bolted piece of wood across the back of the saw, and the deer is through bolted to it. It's a little Grizzley feeder. That little feeder is great for a router. I can make tiny curved moldings without losing the molding into the cutter, like on a shaper.

The saw is old Delta, and I have an art deco on off switch to power the router. The cast iron table and saw insides were no good.

[Thomas Wilson]

John,
Off-topic question, what do you think of the 1/8 hp power feeder? I have wanted one for safety and steady feed rate on my router table. I am not sure how well they work. Ease of set up, grip on the workpiece, can it safely do a climb cut?

[John Kananis]

John,
Off-topic question, what do you think of the 1/8 hp power feeder? I have wanted one for safety and steady feed rate on my router table. I am not sure how well they work. Ease of set up, grip on the workpiece, can it safely do a climb cut?

Thomas, I'd be happy to let you know once it's up and running. I purchased it with the intent of using it on my ts but I never got around to installing it. It's going to be a couple weeks before I can get to it but I'll report back with my findings. I think I have a good idea on how to set it up without too much stress on the table.

[Steve Jenkins]

John,
Off-topic question, what do you think of the 1/8 hp power feeder? I have wanted one for safety and steady feed rate on my router table. I am not sure how well they work. Ease of set up, grip on the workpiece, can it safely do a climb cut?

I have one that was given to me and mounted it on my router table. It works great

[John Kananis]

I have one that was given to me and mounted it on my router table. It works great

Steve, which router table do you have and how did you mount it. If not cast iron, is there any deflection in the top? Thanks.

[Steve Jenkins]

My router table has a steel top. I mounted it in the back right corner. Don’t know what the support structure is on yours but I’d think it could be easily reinforced.

[John Kananis]

Thanks a bunch for the reply.

[Mitch schiffer]

I have a jessem phenolic router table and I have the smallest powermatic poweer feeder on it. I drilled 2 of the holes through the lip on the back metal strut that supports the top. The other 2 holes i used large fender washers. I haven't had any issues with my set up. It has been mounted there for a couple years now.

[al ladd]

This feeder will mount on your router table fence in under a minute, and weighs only 13 pounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGyMs_9estA&t=5s

[John Kananis]

I have a jessem phenolic router table and I have the smallest powermatic poweer feeder on it. I drilled 2 of the holes through the lip on the back metal strut that supports the top. The other 2 holes i used large fender washers. I haven't had any issues with my set up. It has been mounted there for a couple years now.

Would it be possible to ask for a pic? Not sure I understand - thank you.


This feeder will mount on your router table fence in under a minute, and weighs only 13 pounds: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FGyMs_9estA&t=5s

Very clever and creative but I'm not looking for a homebrew solution for this. Thanks for sharing.

[Jim Morgan]

Here is a photo of my setup (see post #11):

481102

The base is clamped over a corner of the frame, and there is no appreciable deflection. I lose some real estate in front of the bit, so I am limited to ~8 inches in front of the centerline of the bit. If I were ever to need to rout anything wider, I could move the feeder to the back of the table. That flexibility is a benefit of clamping the base to the table, rather than modifying the table so the feeder could be bolted on. It is also easy to move the feeder to another tool, should the need arise.

[John Kananis]

Here is a photo of my setup (see post #11):

481102

The base is clamped over a corner of the frame, and there is no appreciable deflection. I lose some real estate in front of the bit, so I am limited to ~8 inches in front of the centerline of the bit. If I were ever to need to rout anything wider, I could move the feeder to the back of the table. That flexibility is a benefit of clamping the base to the table, rather than modifying the table so the feeder could be bolted on. It is also easy to move the feeder to another tool, should the need arise.

Well, this certainly makes life easy... thank you. I think I'll do similar with the back left corner.