Help with epoxy

[Casey Carr]

Long time lurker, but I don’t have much time to check in here anymore, much less actually play with my tools. But I got the itch and decided to build my daughter a jewelry box. Everything was going smoothly until today when I went to cut some spline grooves in the frame. The box fell and hit the floor while I was getting the cut set up. I thought it was just the back corner that got dinged up, but after I cut the grooves for the splines, I found the top edge was split all the way through. I’d really rather not have to make this entire frame again and was wondering if there was a good epoxy that will hide it or whether even wood glue would work. At least it’s a clean break, if I can find something thin enough to bond it back together, I doubt anyone will ever even be able to tell. I’ll attempt to post some pics.

[Casey Carr]

Well, I can’t figure out how to post pics from my iPad. Is there a size limit?

[Casey Carr]

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/3bafd451-02cc-469b-aa0a-a48c2fcbfd63

[Steve Jenkins]

To post or see pics you must be a contributor. Only 6 bucks a year. If it’s a clean split along the grain regular wood glue will work just fine.

[Casey Carr]

https://sawmillcreek.org/blob:https://sawmillcreek.org/b0cdec17-19b0-4571-ac7f-d1403670ed05

[Casey Carr]

480615 So I got this one on, but I don’t know how. Somehow it worked for this one, but can’t get the split to upload.

[Casey Carr]

480616 Oh, there it is! If I click around enough, it somehow loads!

[Lee Schierer]

480616 Oh, there it is! If I click around enough, it somehow loads!

Casey, I would use regular PVA glue to fix that corner. You can work the glue down into the crack with dental floss. Use a moderate amount of glue and clean up any squeeze out as soon as you get the piece clamped. The crack should be virtually invisible once the glue sets up.

Note: You can post up to 8 photos in any one post. I find that on my tablet I have to use the "Full Site" mode to accurately see photos and to edit. You can access "Full Site" mode by scrolling to the bottom of any page on your mobile device. YMMV on an ipad....

[Casey Carr]

Thank you, Lee! I’ll get some gorilla glue tomorrow and see what I can do. I think it will be close to invisible if I do it right.

[Casey Carr]

Or will titebond ii work? Only issue I see is it doesn’t dry clear, but I shouldn’t need much.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I would use Titebond 1. If you can test clamp the crack shut dry the glue line will not show once the glue is put in and has dried.

[Lee Schierer]

Thank you, Lee! I’ll get some gorilla glue tomorrow and see what I can do. I think it will be close to invisible if I do it right.

Don't use the polyurethane glue it will make a mess of it.

[Bill Dufour]

Lee, Thanks for the idea
Bill D.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?298317-tip-getting-glue-into-small-cracks-dental-picks&p=3198487#post3198487

[Stan Calow]

Another no to gorilla glue! That stuff expands. If it were me (and it has been) I'd use medium CA glue. You just have to be fast. Thin tires too fast. Starbond CA glue and maybe others have these really thin nozzle extensions that let you squirt glue deep into a crevice.

[Jim Becker]

Polyurethane glue does "expand/foam", but it's not gap-filling. That "foam" has zero strength. PVA (Titebond or any other brand) is a good choice for this kind of repair unless there's a large gap and then I'd likely opt for epoxy.

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Only downside with epoxy is the dark line it leaves. Not a problem on end grain especially with that dark wood.