Budget Lathe for Spindles?

[Jason Lester]

Any recommendations for a budget lathe for spindle turning? I have no desire to turn bowls, so I don't need anything related to that. For the chairs I make, it's mostly front legs and rungs, max of 22". I do want the capability of doing a Shaker rocker rear leg though, those are around 45". I'm in a rural area and have been watching Craigslist and Facebook for months with no luck, so I think I'll have to purchase new.

[Brice Rogers]

Most of the small spindle lathe (entry level) would work except that they may not meet your goal of turning 45".

I had a 1950's version Craftsman 9" cast iron bed lathe. When I outgrew it I sold it and a bunch of accessories for around $100. I mention this because I think that the length was around 48". No frills. No variable speed...but for spindles that probably isn't important. No reverse, but that doesn't matter much either for spindles.

If you get a lathe, learn to use a skew to do slicing cuts. They are easy to use on spindles and can produce a great finish.

[John K Jordan]

Any recommendations for a budget lathe for spindle turning? I have no desire to turn bowls, so I don't need anything related to that. For the chairs I make, it's mostly front legs and rungs, max of 22". I do want the capability of doing a Shaker rocker rear leg though, those are around 45". I'm in a rural area and have been watching Craigslist and Facebook for months with no luck, so I think I'll have to purchase new.

As Brice mentioned, finding a lathe that will handle 45” might be difficult, especially on a limited budget. I don’t know of one.

However, there are some other solutions. You can build a bed extension from steel or even wood that will let you turn a long spindle. Or line up the lathe with a workbench or stand and make something to hold the tailstock. I’ve turned spindles that long on my biggest lathe but used some tricks and an expensive factory bed extension, nothing close to a budget solution.

A friend told me he lined up the beds of two small inexpensive lathes and turned a spindle over 60” long. He made a long tool test from wood for the job.

Besides the lathe hardware there are something else to consider. The longer a spindle of a given diameter, the more likely it will flex and vibrate while turning. It helps to clamp one end tightly in a chuck however even that doesn’t completely solve the problem. Many people buy or make a steady rest, a device usually made with small wheels which support the wood in the center. I don’t use one but use techniques to control the vibration on long, thin spindles but those might not be easy for your long rear leg plan.

I strongly agree with the value of becoming experienced with the skew chisel.

JKJ

[roger wiegand]

45" is going to be tough. I like the idea of getting two older Delta or Craftsman beds and bolting them together to get the longer length. I don't think I'd recommend doing that with the beds made up of steel tube, they are already not very rigid. If you can find a Conover lathe at a price you like you can make the wooden ways as long as you like (I did 6' bedposts on mine). For small diameter spindles you can easily get by without a variable speed motor, which will save you a lot of money.

Unless you love sanding the skew chisel will be your best friend for spindle work. Some of the English production turners have wonderful youtube videos on the subject.

[Jason Lester]

Thanks guys, I may forgo the 45" length since that is a project for future me. If that was the case, is there a budget lathe you would recommend? I know the used market is a good suggestion, there's just none around here.

[John Kananis]

Jason, I doubt you'll find something for less. Budget friendly.

https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-16-x-46-wood-lathe-with-dro/g0462

It's on sale for just under 1k.

[Reed Gray]

Well, there are lots of Shopsmith multi tools on craigslist. Not so great for bowls because their lowest speed is a bit high. Other than that, find the nearest woodturner's club and ask around. You generally can buy extensions for the beds, but that is more money...

robo hippy

[roger wiegand]

Second the suggestion to try your local AAW chapter. Folks often have an old lathe sitting around that they don't bother to sell, but would be happy to get rid of if asked. There are a million old Delta lathes out there that would be fine for your purpose. Try to get a #2 morse taper in both the head and tail stock, it will make getting drives and accessories easier. Also if you can find a 1" or 1-1/4" X 8 tpi threaded headstock (pretty much the most common sizes) you will have much better luck sourcing used chucks and faceplates that fit. That's much less important for spindle work-- but once you have a lathe strange things start to happen, and soon many are consumed.

[Richard Coers]

Any older and used Delta, Powermatic, or General will get your job done. They all will be far superior to new import lathes made today. Absolutely stay away from Harbor Freight, and vintage Craftsman lathes.

[Frederick Skelly]

Don't laugh, but Harbor Freight still sells its 34706 Lathe. It appears to be a close copy of the JET JWL1236. Used to sell for around $300 but it's gone up to $450 in the last couple years. I have one that I bought used and with a couple minor mods to the stand it's a perfectly functional "starter lathe".

I dont normally recommend their stuff, but this tool has a pretty decent reputation. I've had no trouble with mine.

Fred

[Jim Barkelew]

A lathe is a very simple machine and I have seen all the basic parts on ebay. Depending on your skills, building a basic lathe is something to consider.

Jim

[Rick Potter]

I would look for a used Record spindle lathe. Mine is, I think, a 48" an it is a really nice unit. The reason I say 'I think' is because I want to use it as a HD Mini/Midi lathe, and I removed the steel bars and replaced them with shorter structural steel bars to bring it down to about a 20". Of course I saved the originals in case I ever want to sell it.

It is a very sturdy lathe, with a 3/4x16 spindle (again, I think). I got it used for $800 15 years ago. Record is still around, I believe. Made in England. I think Eagle tools used to sell them. Definitely not a cheap lathe.

[Richard Coers]

Don't laugh, but Harbor Freight still sells its 34706 Lathe. It appears to be a close copy of the JET JWL1236. Used to sell for around $300 but it's gone up to $450 in the last couple years. I have one that I bought used and with a couple minor mods to the stand it's a perfectly functional "starter lathe".

I dont normally recommend their stuff, but this tool has a pretty decent reputation. I've had no trouble with mine.

Fred
Pretty decent except for the pot metal reeves drive pulleys. I sure hope you are keeping them well greased. One binds up and you'll be calling HF to see if they could get you replacements in less than a year. Then you'll call Grizzly for those like Delta owners do.

[Frederick Skelly]

Pretty decent except for the pot metal reeves drive pulleys. I sure hope you are keeping them well greased. One binds up and you'll be calling HF to see if they could get you replacements in less than a year. Then you'll call Grizzly for those like Delta owners do.

So far, so good Richard, but I sure appreciate the warning. Thank you!

[Scott Winners]

My experience lathe shopping is price goes up exponentially with bed length. For example, a lathe at $1000 that can handle 16 inch spindles, then step up to a similar quality lathe that can handle 32" spindles would be roughly 4x as much.

I have an example in my shop, a $500 craigslist find that can take a 45" spindle in the stocks. The bed rails are simply not stiff enough. I can turn 16" stock pretty OK, but up around 20-22" the rails flex enough for the turning stock to be whipping around its own axis of rotation, at 45 inches it is useless as a lathe. The only reason I am hanging on to it is I might someday find a couple pieces of used railroad track to weld on to stiffen up the rails I have.

Plus eleventy on learning to use a skew. I started out with a set of 8 inexpensive lathe tools, Buck brothers I think. I bought one nicer skew, a Sorby I think, and can do just about everything with it. A skew is going to be the easiest one to keep sharp, and with practice you can do just about everything with a sharp skew.

[Neil Strong]

I have an example in my shop, a $500 craigslist find that can take a 45" spindle in the stocks. The bed rails are simply not stiff enough. I can turn 16" stock pretty OK, but up around 20-22" the rails flex enough for the turning stock to be whipping around its own axis of rotation, at 45 inches it is useless as a lathe. The only reason I am hanging on to it is I might someday find a couple pieces of used railroad track to weld on to stiffen up the rails I have.



At most chair spindle thicknesses a 45" long piece is going to deflect on even the stiffest of bed ways. Having stiff bed ways helps but reducing the deflection/oscillation with the other hand (I wear a leather glove for that) is also be required. Like using the skew, it's a skill that you will need to develop, if you haven't already. Otherwise use a contraption, as described by JKJ.

And when it comes to very thin spindles I find hand steadying is essential for the likes of the 1/8" one on the left...


480768

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I have big plans to stretch this one. The head stock bolts to the bed. I have made a few pairs of 8 foot oars with hand tools. I have always wanted a slow, long, lathe for final sanding and varnishing.

480941

[Reed Gray]

Whipping with spindles is common. Some one gave a ration of 10 to 1, as in a 1 inch diameter spindle 10 inches long will not whip/flex when turning. If you start going longer and narrower, whipping happens as there is not enough wood to support even the lightest bevel rub. Look up Woodturner 21 on You Tube. Can't remember his name, but he is very good with spindles. When turning longer legs, he has a steady rest in the middle of the spindle. I recently completed a rolling pin for pasta that is 3 feet long and 1 1/2 inch diameter. It wasn't easy, and I turned it down several times and allowed it to adjust. A fun project. When done turning, I put some 80 grit on a straight board to even it all out. Too much pressure on the tailstock can also add to problems.

robo hippy

[John K Jordan]

Whipping with spindles is common. Some one gave a ration of 10 to 1, as in a 1 inch diameter spindle 10 inches long will not whip/flex when turning. If you start going longer and narrower, whipping happens as there is not enough wood to support even the lightest bevel rub. Look up Woodturner 21 on You Tube. Can't remember his name, but he is very good with spindles. When turning longer legs, he has a steady rest in the middle of the spindle. I recently completed a rolling pin for pasta that is 3 feet long and 1 1/2 inch diameter. It wasn't easy, and I turned it down several times and allowed it to adjust. A fun project. When done turning, I put some 80 grit on a straight board to even it all out. Too much pressure on the tailstock can also add to problems.

robo hippy

As I mentioned, instead of turning between centers hold one end tightly in a chuck or jam chuck. This makes that end and probably the first 1/3 of the spindle much stiffer.

I've posted this before but here are a couple of thin spindles made for demonstration purposes. The taper is from about 1/2" to 1/16" with the length over 24". One is from walnut and one from shelving pine from Home Depot. The holding method was a short #2MT turned on one end and held tightly into the headstock with a 1/4" draw bar where necessary. No steady rest in my shop other than stabilizing with my left hand. I've found that having too much tailstock pressure can be a problem, but also having not enough pressure, depending on the piece. When I encounter problems one thin I try is increasing and decreasing the pressure to see what helps. Also, try a different tool. Don't use a small diameter spindle gouge with a fingernail grind on a very thin spindle - go with a skew. Check that the skew is shaving sharp - hone if needed.

480946

I also use a flat board with sand paper glue to it to help flatten rolling pins. Turning a cylinder with a consistent diameter is more difficult than it might seem! Olive wood:

480947

I keep flat "sanding sticks" in 1" and 2" widths and with grits from 80 to 400 made from plywood and one with 80 grit made from a flat 2x2 about 18" long. This are all handy in so many circumstances. I apply the sandpaper with a 3M spray-on contact adhesive.

JKJ

[Neil Strong]

The holding method was a short #2MT turned on one end and held tightly into the headstock with a 1/4" draw bar where necessary.

Putting the spindle under more tension than compression also helps.

I've used a 3-jaw mini-chuck mounted on a live centre (with drawbar) in the tailstock and fixed M2 in headstock to achieve that...



480984 480986


Probably only worth getting if you are going to be doing a bit of thin spindle work.

[Jason Lester]

A used one showed up online nearby. It's listed as a Delta 46-716. I can't find that one, but see a 46-715. It looks almost unused at $800. Is that a decent model and price?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I am looking forward to spending a little more on my next Lathe.
481919
481915 481918

[Jason Lester]

I ended up going with the Grizzly G0462. It's supposed to be delivered tomorrow.

Jason

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Congratulations! Grizzly is having some tempting sales and the Springfield store is in our state.
Great looking machine.

481920

[Edward Weber]

Pretty decent except for the pot metal reeves drive pulleys. I sure hope you are keeping them well greased. One binds up and you'll be calling HF to see if they could get you replacements in less than a year. Then you'll call Grizzly for those like Delta owners do.

I have a Grizzly G0584, which was my starter lathe and still works fine.

Don't grease them, that's asking for trouble.
The main issue with the pulley halves sticking is belt debris sticking to lubricant on the shaft. This creates a sticking/binding compound that locks the halves from moving.
Dry lube, like a graphite product and a better quality belt will keep it serviceable for years.

I had the binding problem about 18 years ago and after I rebuilt the drive and switched to a link belt, I never had to revisit the issue again.
With a link belt you don't have the rubber debris spalling off and creating the issue I mentioned above.
Just something to consider for those who own a reeves drive machine