Jointer grease suggestions (20" Kölle)

[Chris Pyle]

I'm hoping to get input from anyone who understands the various types of grease out there for open bearing lubrication. I've noticed after an hour+ of jointing stock, the motor spindle side gets very very warm.

I don't know what was used on this jointer prior so I'm at a disadvantage. What can be done to clean out old grease from zerks and bearings before filling with new grease? Or should I just start injecting the new grease and expect to replace it over time?

I found this article on OWWM:

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Print. ... ubrication (http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/Print.aspx?Page=Greases%20and%20Lubrication)

But it doesn't fully spell out what I should use. Not that it's needed but here's what my jointer head would look like if I tore it down. Of course, I'm hoping to avoid that until it's time for bearing replacement. I don't want to put the money towards new ABEC-7s until I'm certain there is a failure.
https://owwm.org/download/file.php?id=453485&t=1 (https://owwm.org/download/file.php?id=453485&mode=view)


Any suggestions?

[Bill Dufour]

My response to a thread about oil and grease

interchange chart linked below. see last column on the right. I do not think the oil is critical. For gear boxes be careful if there is any yellow metal as the modern EP GL5 oils will attack yellow metal such as brass and bronze. I am not aware that grease has any issues.
Bill D.

http://www.graco.com/content/dam/gra...340580EN-A.pdf (http://www.graco.com/content/dam/graco/led/literature/flyers/340580/340580EN-A.pdf)

for oil:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm (https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm)

[Chris Pyle]

My respons eto a threwad about oil and greasze

interchange chart linked below. see last column on the right. I do not think the oil is critical. For gear boxes be careful if there is any yellow metal as the modern EP GL5 oils will attack yellow metal such as brass and bronze. I am not aware that grease has any issues.
Bill D.

http://www.graco.com/content/dam/gra...340580EN-A.pdf (http://www.graco.com/content/dam/graco/led/literature/flyers/340580/340580EN-A.pdf)

for oil:

https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forum...s.php?ubb=cfrm (https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm)


Thanks Bill. The greases under this column look most suitable:

High Speed Spindle GreaseFAG Arcanol L-75™FAG Arcanol Speed 2,6™Kluber Isoflex NBU 15High Speed Spindle Grease(continued)LubCon Highspeed L252™SKF LGCT2™Timken Ultra-High Speed Spindle Grease

Where is the best place to order these? When I do some internet searches, I see a bunch of overseas distributors that want to charge quite a bit.

**Edit** - update: I found a few threads suggesting Kluber Isoflex NBU 15 or Mobil 28. I found the Kluber product stocked relatively close by so I'm going to try them out. Thanks for the info.

[Bill Dufour]

AFIK Kluber is super expensive for any type of grease. maybe they have some cheap ones for other uses.
Bill D

[Brian Runau]

Be very careful mixing greases due to compatibility. Wash out existing grease with appropriate product then relube or replace with shielded bearings. Brian

[Jerry Bruette]

How many RPM's does the cutter head turn at? You may not need any high speed spindle grease. We had machines where I used to work that turned at 3600 RPM and they were greased with Mobil EP2.

If your motor end is running hot, 200* F, your belts may be too tight.

I don't know of a way to flush all the grease out of the bearings and housings without taking it all apart and washing in a parts washer.

[Brian Runau]

ABEC 7 rating is for machine tools, seems like over kill for a jointer. Brian

[Greg Quenneville]

+1 For the ABEC rating. Standard precision bearings are typical for woodworking machines…that’s the kind of thing they were made for. I have used Kluber Isoflex on my toolroom lathe's super precision bearings, but they don’t take much. Less than a third full.

My woodworking machines that take grease get a standard EP2.

[Chris Pyle]

Thanks all, sounds like I may have swung past my goal of a high quality grease and ended in "completely ridiculous overkill". I'll grab some standard grease for now, reassess the belts and try to avoid replacing the bearings until necessary.

[Tom M King]

How much do new bearings cost for it?

[Chris Pyle]

How much do new bearings cost for it?

Because this is a german machine and I can't find a manual, I don't know. The only way to tell is to tear the cutterhead down and measure the bearings to get a price quote. If there are any german members on here who can dig up Kölle manuals for my jointer/planer, I'd be ecstatic. I know they'll be in German but I'd be happy to translate just so I can learn.

[Bill Dufour]

Just because it is a zerk does not mean it takes grease. Bridgeport milling machines are known for having zerks to apply oil to slide ways. Lots of folks use grease instead and gum up the works causing lack of lube and premature wear.
Bill D.

[Greg Quenneville]

For European machines I sometimes find good info at Hoeschmann. Here is a link to a Kölle brochure which contains their contact details. Perhaps an appeal directly to the factory would work?

https://files.hoechsmann.com/lexikon/pdf/original/koel_dh40_12_z40_de.pdf?lang=en

Also, on the last page is an illustration of a 1908 combination bandsaw, tablesaw, shaper and mortiser. I am waiting for the sawstop version.

On edit…disregard. A bit more Googling taught me that they went bust in 2001.

[Dwayne Watt]

Any good synthetic grease will be a "one and done" for this sort of application. Ball bearings only need a 25-30% fill to be adequately lubricated. A complete fill runs hot and can lead to bearing failure on higher speed bearings such as this. Even if there are grease fittings, don't be tempted to give them a shot of grease now and then.

[Mike Henderson]

Not being very knowledgeable about grease, I'd probably use wheel bearing grease.

Mike

[Chris Pyle]

For European machines I sometimes find good info at Hoeschmann. Here is a link to a Kölle brochure which contains their contact details. Perhaps an appeal directly to the factory would work?

https://files.hoechsmann.com/lexikon/pdf/original/koel_dh40_12_z40_de.pdf?lang=en

Also, on the last page is an illustration of a 1908 combination bandsaw, tablesaw, shaper and mortiser. I am waiting for the sawstop version.

On edit…disregard. A bit more Googling taught me that they went bust in 2001.


Thanks Greg, I have those documents but I appreciate the link. I'm hoping to find a full user manual but so far I haven't had any luck. One thing I'd like to resolve is the digital readout on the front is off from the mechanical readout on top of the planer. The one on top is correct and I'd like to get them sync'd up. I don't know how to reprogram the "zero" or set in a current height so they are back in sync.

[Tom M King]

If it was mine, I'd be running Corn Head grease in the bearings, and not worry about them until they started making noise. I keep some in a grease gun without a Zerk fitting end on it, so I can put it in tractor mower gearboxes. It doesn't leak out of seals when other stuff does, so I would guess it to stay in bearings better too.

[Brian Holcombe]

I would stick to the grease that Kölle recommends and the bearings as well, they knew what they were doing when they designed and built the machine. Not sure what utility it would be to reduce the quality of the lubricants or precision of the bearings.

[Bill Dufour]

If it was mine, I'd be running Corn Head grease in the bearings, and not worry about them until they started making noise. I keep some in a grease gun without a Zerk fitting end on it, so I can put it in tractor mower gearboxes. It doesn't leak out of seals when other stuff does, so I would guess it to stay in bearings better too.

We do not see corn head grease here but cotton picking grease is the same kind of stuff.
Bill D

[Tom M King]

I wouldn't buy it to use for these bearings, but would use it since I already have it along with a bunch of other types. It's not as messy to clean off stuff it shouldn't be on, at the same time not as easily slung off of something spinning even as easily as wheel bearing grease.

I don't own any corn heads, but use the grease for a lot of things.

copied and pasted: Corn Head Grease is a carefully formulated lithium 12-hydroxystearate grease with oxidation, rust and corrosion inhibitors, extreme pressure (EP) additives for anti-wear and heavy shock loading, and a special polymer to control oil separation during storage.

[Chris Pyle]

I would stick to the grease that Kölle recommends and the bearings as well, they knew what they were doing when they designed and built the machine. Not sure what utility it would be to reduce the quality of the lubricants or precision of the bearings.
Hi Brian, thanks for chiming in. Here's the rub: Kölle is now defunct and I've been unable to find a true user manual for my machines. The picture at the top of the thread shows the jointer head that was being rebuilt by a German dealer on one of the international machine sales websites.

I called SKF and asked for a recommendation, they weren't willing to say anything until I pulled the head and measured the bearing ID/OD. I'm running out of options when it comes to finding what Kölle suggested so now I'm just trying to find a high quality grease that will hopefully play nice with whatever was used before. I was told the Machines are yr 2000 models but were actually purchased in 2001 as overstock right before they went bust.

I have all the sales manuals that I can find and I've manually typed out the german for every single section to no avail.

[Jerry Bruette]

Can you get any other pictures from where you got the one you posted? Obviously they used SKF bearings, from the picture they look like double row ball bearings. They could be self aligning or just a 5xxx series bearing. A view from the end of the box, if it shows numbers would be very helpful, you could price the bearings with that information.

If the bearings have never been replaced I would assume that the grease would be a Kluber product. German machine, German grease. Maybe a reach out to Kluber would be helpful determining which grease was used.

I would look for signs around the bolt heads, seals, nuts etc. even breaks in the paint job that would indicate bearing replacement.

[Chris Pyle]

Can you get any other pictures from where you got the one you posted? Obviously they used SKF bearings, from the picture they look like double row ball bearings. They could be self aligning or just a 5xxx series bearing. A view from the end of the box, if it shows numbers would be very helpful, you could price the bearings with that information.

If the bearings have never been replaced I would assume that the grease would be a Kluber product. German machine, German grease. Maybe a reach out to Kluber would be helpful determining which grease was used.

I would look for signs around the bolt heads, seals, nuts etc. even breaks in the paint job that would indicate bearing replacement.

I can not get anymore pics. These pics were captured when the machine was listed for sale a couple years ago. I wrote the machinery dealer asking for more info, explaining I had the same machines and never received a response.

I was mistaken, I looked at the plates on the machines and they were built in 1997 but were purchased from the factory and sent over late 2000 or 2001

[Greg Quenneville]

Chris, is your machine an ADH 50? I asked someone local about who here sold them. Still Waiting for a reply.

Greg

[Chris Pyle]

Chris, is your machine an ADH 50? I asked someone local about who here sold them. Still Waiting for a reply.

Greg

Very kind of you Greg. I have the AH50 and DH63, 1997 vintage. I just sent an email to a German outfit that have the remaining Kölle parts asking if they had any user manuals/scans.

[Joe Calhoon]

Chris,
The Reibling company sold that era of Kolle here and they went out of business about the time Kolle did. The owner had passed but his son was involved and I contacted him for some Martin info as they were importers for many years. He was done with the business and not forthcoming with any information. Probably the same for Kolle. I’m attaching a picture from my Hofmann manual showing recommended lubricant for their machines. Maybe could be some help. Some of that might be oil.
I saw your post on OWWM and agree with the fellow that recommended going sealed bearings if you ever change them. I did that on my T17 saw and totally happy with that. My T23 shaper has the the oil circulation system for bearings but would not recommend that. It takes a lot of effort for not much gain and prone to a lot of problems.
For greasing both Martin and Hofmann recommend not over greasing. After greasing run for one minute, off for one, run for five, off for five then run for ten. All this with no load. Martin has their own long term grease and no info about what it is.
480565

[Brian Holcombe]

I agree with Joe on going to sealed bearings. Without a manual or stamp I would be inclined to use the Hofmann spec. German machinery manufacturers tend to be very specific about the lubricants and these can effect performance. It’s easy to write that off, but I have experienced it on the Maka where a change in grease thickness effects the feed rate of the head.

Once you have a spec, you can find something which meets that spec on McMaster’s website using their search functions. I’ve done that with some of the lubricants since not all of them are still manufactured.

[Chris Pyle]

Thanks Joe, Brian, et al.

I found a landing page for Kölle machinery that said Riston now controls remaining parts, not sure if that is up-to-date. That's who I emailed but so far no response. I also reached out to the previous owner a while ago (Martin Ott, incredibly nice guy) and he didn't have the manuals.

These are wonderful machines but I'd feel so much better about troubleshooting with manuals in hand, especially considering I've never owned equipment this big. Oh well, I'll keep putting out feelers. I may need to jump on some german woodworking forums/videos and put out a request for the manuals.

I'm in the process of creating a binder for my machines with key dates for greasing/maintenance and I'm adding your suggestions Joe about the unloaded operating schedule after greasing. I'm also putting a note to purchase sealed bearings when it's time for replacement. These are only 25 years old as of now and the machines were only used by Martin since new. Martin was not a high volume guy, seeing as he built pipe organs so I feel confident the bearings still have life left in them.

I'll post back should any new info surface.

[Greg Quenneville]

Chris, here is a manual for the digital readout, if yours is the Elgo Electric type 85. I didn’t examine it closely, but I expect it has your reset instructions.

https://www.elgo.de/fileadmin/user_upload/pdf/manual/predecessor_types/85P-MA-E.pdf

Greg

[Chris Pyle]

Chris, here is a manual for the digital readout, if yours is the Elgo Electric type 85. I didn’t examine it closely, but I expect it has your reset instructions.

https://www.elgo.de/fileadmin/user_upload/pdf/manual/predecessor_types/85P-MA-E.pdf

Greg

Amazing Greg, that's the model I have in my planer. Even if I never find the machinery manuals, I have at least one more thing I can get tuned up.

Thank you so much for your efforts with this.

[Greg Quenneville]

Chris, I have a Euro tool fetish, and I have been helped immensely by guys from the various machinists and woodworking forums over the years, so I'm happy I could help someone else in return.

Greg

[Chris Pyle]

Chris, I have a Euro tool fetish, and I have been helped immensely by guys from the various machinists and woodworking forums over the years, so I'm happy I could help someone else in return.

Greg

I also have an interest in high quality tools. Here's a pic of the machines nestled together. Kölle jointer, planer and I believe a Kölle bandsaw but there are different names imprinted on the guides.

480646

[Bill Dufour]

The grease recommendations are twenty years old. I doubt if synthetic grease was common back then. I like the idea of synthetic grease and oil for machines that do not get lubed every year. In theory synthetic grease does not dry out and get gummy like petroleum grease and oil.
Pure Silicone oil does not dry out(Zero vapor pressure) nor oxidize at normal operating temperatures. Most of us here only relube a bearing after it is too late to save it.
Bill D

[Greg Quenneville]

I also have an interest in high quality tools. Here's a pic of the machines nestled together. Kölle jointer, planer and I believe a Kölle bandsaw but there are different names imprinted on the guides.

480646

Oddly, when scouring the internet for clues I can across Martin Ott's old website with your machines illustrated. They are very nice indeed. I would like to migrate from Felder to Martin or Kölle machines, but age and practicality limit my ambitions somewhat in that department.

My metal lathe is a Dutch AI Hembrug DR-1…kind of like a 7/8 scale Monarch 10EE. I had Deckel FP-1 an FP-2 companion machines, but sold them in a fit of stupidity. I expect to replace the FP-2

I recently bought a local Maka mortiser for a far-off friend which has me again itchy to improve my shop. The siren song of German machinery is distracting still. This after a life's hobby journey that started a couple of notches below Craftsman stuff. (And I still have all the Sears stuff I bought when I lived in North America)

BTW, your bandsaw sure looks like a Kölle BG63. Those Euro guides were all made by one or two suppliers, and every Italian bandsaw I have owned or seen had them. I think they all had GL in their part numbers. Some had “Jolly” on the left guide.


Best,
Greg

[Bill Dufour]

Nice lathe!
Bill D.

http://www.lathes.co.uk/hembrug/

[Brian Holcombe]

It’s worth adding Japanese industrial machines as well. The Marunaka super surfacer just impresses the heck out of me, every part is nicely made and made of cast iron or aluminum. Nothing flexes, nothing vibrates, nothing groans.

Im very happy with my couple of German machines, they are very well built. The cast iron parts are hefty, the machines run very smoothly and they just run without complaint and do precise work every time.

[Chris Pyle]

Oddly, when scouring the internet for clues I can across Martin Ott's old website with your machines illustrated. They are very nice indeed. I would like to migrate from Felder to Martin or Kölle machines, but age and practicality limit my ambitions somewhat in that department.

My metal lathe is a Dutch AI Hembrug DR-1…kind of like a 7/8 scale Monarch 10EE. I had Deckel FP-1 an FP-2 companion machines, but sold them in a fit of stupidity. I expect to replace the FP-2

I recently bought a local Maka mortiser for a far-off friend which has me again itchy to improve my shop. The siren song of German machinery is distracting still. This after a life's hobby journey that started a couple of notches below Craftsman stuff. (And I still have all the Sears stuff I bought when I lived in North America)

BTW, your bandsaw sure looks like a Kölle BG63. Those Euro guides were all made by one or two suppliers, and every Italian bandsaw I have owned or seen had them. I think they all had GL in their part numbers. Some had “Jolly” on the left guide.


Best,
Greg

That is some incredibly high quality machines you've been able to use. That lathe sounds fantastic and the Deckel is obviously in another class. I've never seen a Deckel in real life, I've wanted to own one but the prices continue to ascend too far outside my budget right now.

Thanks for the confirming photo/identification, I thought that was the correct model then the guides were stamped differently, I'll grab a pick today and post back on here.


It’s worth adding Japanese industrial machines as well. The Marunaka super surfacer just impresses the heck out of me, every part is nicely made and made of cast iron or aluminum. Nothing flexes, nothing vibrates, nothing groans.

Im very happy with my couple of German machines, they are very well built. The cast iron parts are hefty, the machines run very smoothly and they just run without complaint and do precise work every time.

Absolutely Brian. I still search some of the Japanese dealer/auction sites because I want to purchase a couple of their machines. Their sliding saws are fantastic and I only knew of them because of Chris Hall. The super surfacer is on my short list. Every time one has come up for sale I've missed out. I've enjoyed seeing yours on insta, looks like an incredible time saver.

The German machines I have are rock solid but I haven't put them through much.

The Canadian machine I have (general mortiser) is well-built. I still need to go through it as thoroughly as you did on your Wadkin. I don't have the capacity to re-machine but we'll see what a few tests unearth.

I have no Japanese industrial machinery so can't compare (outside of the Hitachi CB75f) which was mass imported and is fairly common.

[Greg Quenneville]

I too should have mentioned Japanese machines. The friend who now has the Maka SM-7 also has a super surfacer rebuild project. It was about 36 hours into a long day when I saw it, but you could sense that it had enough cast iron to produce its own gravitational field. I am not easily impressed, but I was with that thing.

The Japanese also made some seriously good machine tools, but most of them were a few tons too heavy for the home shop without an overhead crane or riggers who owed you big-time.

On another note for Chris:

Since the Germans specifically, and Europeans in general, educate tradesmen in all facets of their trade, it might be that a user manual per se was never written for your machines. Typically shop users would have passed a long career course which would have covered machine adjustment and care and been shown unique features when the machines were delivered.

I know you don’t need operating tips, but even routine lubrication chores may have been left to quick briefings when the machines were new in Europe. I suspect the best you can hope for might be a parts manual, most of which would obviously be moot, but you might discover bearing numbers that way without a tear-down.

Regarding bearings, I expect that Kölle specified a basic off the shelf shielded-one-side bearing since the application does not warrant a super precision bearing. A standard bearing is plenty accurate enough, and a super precision bearing wouldn’t be quite so super after a few hours of interrupted cuts (jointer, planer) hammered the *&$#@ out of them. Also the cost of designing in custom bearings for a short production run would have been really prohibitive. You may have double row bearings, but they should be a commodity item obtained 2022* quickly if and when you ever need them.

Also, I am +1 on getting sealed bearings. Serviceable lubrication bearings are for production machines in big shops with millwrights.

*2022. The world is broken. I have just waited 6.5 months for drawer slides. The car I bought in March is arriving in…March, 2023. Maybe bearings are also on the list of things we don’t make here** anymore?

**= Earth.

Greg

[Chris Pyle]

Thanks for all of that Greg. Somewhat surprisingly I received a reply from Riston, they will send me PDFs of both machines but there is no exploded parts diagrams, which is a huge bummer.

Here's the info on the manuals:

Operating manual for KÖLLE AH 50,
incl. self cost share, copyright protection,
additional costs
Notice:
The operating manual is only available
in German language.
The operating manual includes necessary
information for commissioning and maintenance
as well some drawings for explanation and a
wiring diagram.
Detailed part lists or explosion drawings are
not included.

Each manual in PDF format is 45 euro. That seems awfully high but I don't think i can say no because I love having the manuals/paperwork for my machines.


He also offered input on the type of grease to use:

For lubricating ball bearings, there is no special grease specified in the manuals. It is only pointed out that "lithium-saponified" grease should be used. We recommend obtaining a special grease for lubricating ball bearings from the relevant trade.

For example „Klüberspeed BF 72-23“ or „EMKA Lagerstar TOP 3000“ can be used.

I'm very grateful for the reply from them. I have to believe some knowledge will be gained by having the manuals, even without the parts diagram.

[Tom M King]

We do not see corn head grease here but cotton picking grease is the same kind of stuff.
Bill D

corn head grease is grade 0 cotton picker grease is 00 Both will do the same thing, but 00 will become liquid sooner, and leak out of seals quicker. The only place I know to get Corn Head grease is through John Deere. You can order it online for several times the price as you can walk in a John Deere dealer and get it for, but probably only worth the difference if a dealer is close by. Tractor Supply sells cotton picker grease. I've never seen Corn Head grease leak through a seal, and have seen people cut stuff open online, and show that CH grease is still on races when regular red grease, or regular litium grease has left bearing races.

A more commonly heard name for "lithium-saponified" grease is "complex lithium", or "lithium complex".

[Chris Pyle]

Here are the guides on the bandsaw, they are beefy:

481090

481091

Lower guide markings, hard to make out

481092

481093

Castings behind upper guides:

481094


Back to the grease. I have an order I need to place with McMaster-Carr and they have this Lithium-thickener grease for high speed bearings:

Lubriplate Syn GR-132

Any one disagree with this grease? Seems like a solid, no-frills grease to use on these bearings, no?

[Greg Quenneville]

Hi Chris…

First, congratulations on getting the manuals from Riston. Bummer about the lack of exploded diagrams. I too want as much documentation as I can get on machines since I was elsewhere on campus during all the machine use and maintenance lectures. ��

Lubriplate grease was probably the first grease I ever got under my fingernails 60+ years ago. Good thing it was white. I think the label was black and silver. I cannot comment about the suitability for your application since, as has already been mentioned, the soap from some greases don’t mix with each other, and we don’t know what was used previously.

Bandsaw guide photos are interesting, but so is the mounting casting which says “Panhans”. A quick Google shows no Panhans saws like that, but maybe they made them for Kölle? Or sold them under their own label? I am curious to see the crest on the upper door of your saw.

Anyway…very nice machines from the “set-and-forget” era of machine construction. You will likely go decades between repairs, if ever. And decades between tune-ups.

Greg

[Joe Calhoon]

Greg,
Panhans sells the APA guides in their safety catalog. I don’t know if they are the mfg. in the later years of the old Panhans they rebaged Aggazani band saws and put the APA guides on them. The new Beck Panhans company bought Aggazani when they went out. I don’t know if the bandsaws are still manufactured in Italy or if they moved to Becks factory.
the APA guides are nicer than the standard Euro bandsaw guides. My Hema bandsaw has those on it. Night and day difference from the euro guides on my Aggazani.
481195
481196

[Greg Quenneville]

Thanks Joe.

I have an old Aggazani saw that needed new guides when I bought it. I was a bit underwhelmed by the Euro guides on my old Meber so I opted for ceramics instead. I will investigate APA guides as an upgrade.

Greg

[Brian Holcombe]

Personally I would be tempted to take them out, flush and repack them. The grease is probably 20-30 years old, so it can’t hurt.

The best thing about old heavy machines is that when you set them up, they retain the setting forever.

I don’t think I’ve ever seen a Japanese sliding saw in the US but given a bigger space I would love to import one but with saws like short stroke Martin or Wadkin it’s difficult to want to take on the expense and risk.

[Chris Pyle]

Joe, thanks for the history on the companies and parts. You are a wealth of knowledge.

Greg, appreciate the input.

Brian, I may just do that in the fall. I've got a few projects I want to complete then I may do an overhaul. Are you talking about re-packing the guides on the BS or the bearings on the cutterhead? As an aside, when I set the jointer up originally, I didn't have a machinist level so I got the beds coplanar but I never truly leveled it. Considering doing that as well when it comes time to pull the cutterhead. I'm sure many believe that's overkill and maybe there is minimal value.

It's difficult for me to tell if the planer is being noisy due to an issue or if it's just typical planer noises at this size. I may post a video later.

And agreed re: the Japanese saws. The petty work saws still fetch a healthy price, add in crate/shipping fees and many possible issues along the way...

[Jerry Bruette]

If you're going to tear a machine apart don't clean and repack the bearings, replace them. You already have them out why not finish the job, looking at the pictures you posted you can use SKF bearings and the cost won't be prohibitive.