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View Full Version : Old Delta 34-395 (12”/14”) Table Saw – Maybe use as dedicated rip saw?



James Goodman
06-01-2022, 11:10 PM
I’m a retired interior trim carpenter and am setting up my home woodshop in the hopes of eventually being able to call myself a woodworker. I have a right-tilt 3 hp Delta Unisaw with 54” Biesemeyer fence and its also on a mobile base. My shop is going in a stand-alone 3-car garage that will be dedicated entirely to being my shop, with the exception of needing to leave the floor space served by the 1-car garage open so I can park my 40 hp Kubota tractor inside. When working in the shop I will pull the tractor outside, so that floor space can be used temporarily by machines and work benches / work tables on casters.

So, here’s the background to my eventual question: Years ago, I bought a neglected Delta 34-395 (12”/ 14”) table saw with Biesemeyer fence for $200. It has a 5 hp, 3-phase motor and is missing the bottom pedestal that the saw’s base would normally sit on…..so the saw is about 5” shorter than it would be if that pedestal were not missing. In addition, the magnetic starter and control box need replacement. Also missing is the motor side cover and the bottom louvered front cover…..and the top is rusty (but not pitted). But the motor is not original and looks quite new. So, it is NOT a thing of beauty, to put it mildly. Nonetheless, I have the table off, and the arbor pully spins smoothly, and the blade adjustments operate smoothly and easily. I've attached a photo of someone else's saw that is in similar condtion to mine, but mine is missing the bottom part of the base and the louvered cover shown in the photo.

In the garage, I have built-in work benches and storage shelves against the entire left and right walls and across the entire back wall of the building. These installations project out 3’ from those 3 walls and leave unencumbered floor space of 17’ x 20’ where woodworking machines can be left in place, and 10’ x 20’ in the space that can be used temporarily, when the tractor is backed out of the garage.

That 17’ x 20’ is not a lot of space, and my stationary equipment will be on wheels. I have a Grizzly 15” planer, an old Rockwell drill press, the Delta Unisaw, a 20” bandsaw (yet to be purchased), and an 8” helical head jointer (also yet to be purchased). I am also preparing to start building a 3’x9’ European-style woodworker’s workbench. All of these are or will be on wheels.

I was originally intending to fix up the 14” Delta and put both saws side-by-side, with the 14” saw being my main saw and the Unisaw would be set up with a dado stack. I would merge the 2 Biesemeyer fences to create a fence capable of handling 8’ long sheet goods. But the 2 saws are just too different in size and I would need them both to be mobile while connected together, and I also don’t have the room to accommodate those saws side-by-side with the 8’ long fence capacity. After coming to that conclusion, I was thinking I should just get rid of the 14” saw and stick with the Unisaw, since it is just a hobby woodworking shop and there are lots of accessories for 10” saws. But, with the condition the 14” saw is in now, I’d get next to nothing for it, despite the nice motor, and I got to thinking; What if I used the 14” saw as a dedicated rip saw with a power feeder? I pretty regularly rip pretty good amounts of 6/4 and 8/4 lumber (another story) and in using the Unisaw for this in the past, I regularly would overheat the motor and the thermal overload would kick in and shut it down. I’m thinking the 34-395 could be ideal for this application and I could move that saw around to the back side of the Unisaw and they each would act as outfeed tables for each other. And then, they would not need to be connected together and they could each be wheeled out of the way when that need came up. I would get a VFD to be run the 14” saw off my 1-phase power.

So please give me your opinions on using the 12”/14” Delta 34-395 as a dedicated rip saw with power feeder. Thanks!

Bill Dufour
06-02-2022, 12:30 AM
What arbor does it have? Mine came with a 1+1/8" so I made a new stub arbor for 1" bore blades. I understand newer ones have a fixed size arbor. Grizzly no longer sells stub arbors. They used to sell a knock off saw. I took my plinth off and threw it away. It was like three pieces of bent plate. I belive it was 5+1/2" tall. That allowed me to make a raised mobile base and keep the height about the same.
I need to move the push button station another 6" forward so it is visible from the operating position. I drilled a 6" diameter hole from the back and inserted a piece of pvc pipe front to rear with a slit in the top. I have to pull the pipe to tilt the blade.
Bill D.
If you get into the arbor be aware that some of the threads are left hand. Pretty easy to do the arbor bearings as long as the top is off. Lifting the top is a two man job. I believe the side wings are 90 pounds each. The top itself is about 180 pounds or so held with only four bolts.

William Hodge
06-02-2022, 7:21 AM
Keep the 12-14.
You can set up a central vac crevice tool on the stock feeder for great dust collection off the top of the blade. Also, as far as guards go, a stock feeder is pretty good.
It takes about 25 seconds to change the height of a stock feeder. Having there makes it worth using for one cut.

If you're over heating the little saw, the 3 phase motor ought to be less of a fire hazard.

Thomas Wilson
06-02-2022, 8:53 AM
I don’t know anything about that 12-14” saw, but ripping lots of 6/4 and 8/4 would generate huge amounts of sawdust which I am sure you are aware of. I would be thinking about modifications to the saw for adequate dust collection.

When you overheated your Unisaw, was there adequate air flow around the motor for cooling? A lot of people seal up the cabinet too tight for dust collection or cooling.

On your other story, do you have any plans for molding machines and shapers in this shop?

Bill Dufour
06-02-2022, 1:38 PM
I belive there was a factory option for a 7.5Hp motor. I think the motor pulley may be a oddball belt spacing no longer sold. I know that is true for unisaws. My saw was taper lock motor pulley so I was able to buy a new inner portion to fit my motor. I only have 2Hp so I am only using two of four belts
Bill D

James Goodman
06-02-2022, 7:00 PM
What arbor does it have? Mine came with a 1+1/8" so I made a new stub arbor for 1" bore blades. I understand newer ones have a fixed size arbor. Grizzly no longer sells stub arbors. They used to sell a knock off saw. I took my plinth off and threw it away. It was like three pieces of bent plate. I belive it was 5+1/2" tall. That allowed me to make a raised mobile base and keep the height about the same.
I need to move the push button station another 6" forward so it is visible from the operating position. I drilled a 6" diameter hole from the back and inserted a piece of pvc pipe front to rear with a slit in the top. I have to pull the pipe to tilt the blade.
Bill D.
If you get into the arbor be aware that some of the threads are left hand. Pretty easy to do the arbor bearings as long as the top is off. Lifting the top is a two man job. I believe the side wings are 90 pounds each. The top itself is about 180 pounds or so held with only four bolts.

Bill, I measured it and has a 1" arbor. When I bought the thing, two 14" ATB zero degree hook angle blades came with it.....but no rip blade. I'm took some photos today and will post them separately. Thanks for the the suggestion about removing the plinth and just mounting the wheels under the remaining saw base itself. That makes perfect sense!

Tom M King
06-02-2022, 7:29 PM
I made a wooden box as a motor cover for my Unisaw. That box takes a 12x12 furnace filter. The filter is to let air in, and to keep sawdust from getting out. The motor never overheats since air is drawn across the motor.

I sealed up all open spaces, like under the top, and use a magnetic sheet to cover the tilt slot. 6" duct in the saw base, and 4" overarm guard. Dust Collection is actually quite good if you move plenty of air.

After building a couple of mobile bases recently (see thread about 24" bandsaw base), I'll never buy another commercial one. Good, big casters roll easily. In comparison, commercial mobile bases should be called Sort of Mobile Bases. Bases can be built with large casters and still keep the machine close to the floor. My 24" bandsaw is now much easier to move than any other tool I have sitting on a commercial base.

James Goodman
06-02-2022, 7:36 PM
Thanks for the tip on the dust collection.

James Goodman
06-02-2022, 7:52 PM
I don’t know anything about that 12-14” saw, but ripping lots of 6/4 and 8/4 would generate huge amounts of sawdust which I am sure you are aware of. I would be thinking about modifications to the saw for adequate dust collection.

When you overheated your Unisaw, was there adequate air flow around the motor for cooling? A lot of people seal up the cabinet too tight for dust collection or cooling.

On your other story, do you have any plans for molding machines and shapers in this shop?

Thomas, as far as the overheating goes, I actually would run the machine with the motor door open, so I believe it was getting plenty of air. I was building my house.....very modern..... and ripping up several thousand LF of 4/4 and 6/4 walnut. I actually don't plan to have a shaper or molder.

I like mid-century modern-type design. In my younger days, I worked with a Japanese carpenter in California for about 3 years. His main business was doing upfits of Japanese restaurants so I was kind of immersed in Japanese culture for a bit and learnd a bit about Japanese carpentry, but I'd never claim to be proficient. He put together a trip for us to go to Japan and build houses over there for about 6 months, and that was a life-changing and eye-opening experience. I had been working as an interior trim and casework contractor on very, very hgh-end houses for about 10 years.....multi, multi-million dollar houses. I thought I was a pretty hot stuff, but when I got over to Japan I quickly realized that man......I don't know anything compared to those guys. It was a humbling experience, and after 30 more years and now finally retired, I want to start really learning to use the japanese hand tools I brought back with me. So everything I'm interested in doing has square or rectangular shapes....so I don't need a molder or shaper.

James Goodman
06-02-2022, 8:00 PM
Here are pictures of my actual saw, so you can see the current condition (not pretty). It has a 1" arbor. Those blades were thrown in when I bought it and they are 14" blades, 0 degree hook angle. Tjhat's the motor plate in the pictures too. 480098480097480096480099480100480101480102

Bill Dufour
06-02-2022, 10:20 PM
The factory plinth was two L shaped pieces and two short corners. There was another piece that was a flat funnel for a 4" dust port. You could move stuff around and have the dust port in the middle on any side. I threw away the plinth and welded up a ladder frame from 2x3 steel channel laid flat. Set a piece of plywood on one end and bolted the saw on top of that. With casters it raised the top of the new base to about 6" off the floor. Leaving some toe room under the saw.
Bill D

James Goodman
06-03-2022, 11:33 AM
The factory plinth was two L shaped pieces and two short corners. There was another piece that was a flat funnel for a 4" dust port. You could move stuff around and have the dust port in the middle on any side. I threw away the plinth and welded up a ladder frame from 2x3 steel channel laid flat. Set a piece of plywood on one end and bolted the saw on top of that. With casters it raised the top of the new base to about 6" off the floor. Leaving some toe room under the saw.
Bill D

Since I will just use this as a rip saw, I'm not going to build an extended table. I also don't have the ability to weld, though it's something I wanted to learn. I have an implanted defibrillator and I can't use welding equipment around it. I could always have a ladder frame fabricated, bur if I don't need to, I'd rather not. So, my question is this; since I won't have an extended table that would need an extended base platform to make it stable, in your opinion, do you think I could simply mount 4 casters to the 4 corners of the factory saw base? I think the base is around 27" square and the table is 48x38. Would that be a stable setup or do I need to have a welded-up platform that extends beyond the factory base?

Bill Dufour
06-03-2022, 5:44 PM
It weighs like 600 pounds so it is not likely to tip unless you are cutting long stuff. You could bolt some 4x4's as skids if needed for height.
Bill D

Maurice Mcmurry
06-03-2022, 7:09 PM
That is a monster. The pictures are just plain fun to look at.

Bill Dufour
06-05-2022, 9:42 PM
I do not think the. flat belt drive was factory. Or maybe it is serpetine belt.

I will include a link to a 12/14 serpentine belt conversion to allow a riving knife.
Bill D.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133210-Delta-34-350-12-14-quot-riving-knife-retrofit/page2

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/1214ArborBearings.ashx

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?112419-Riving-knife-for-Model-10-Delta-Contractor-s-saw

James Goodman
06-05-2022, 10:04 PM
I do not think the. flat belt drive was factory. Or maybe it is serpetine belt.

I will include a link to a 12/14 serpentine belt conversion to allow a riving knife.
Bill D.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?133210-Delta-34-350-12-14-quot-riving-knife-retrofit/page2

http://wiki.vintagemachinery.org/1214ArborBearings.ashx

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?112419-Riving-knife-for-Model-10-Delta-Contractor-s-saw


Thank you. I will check out those links. Actually, there were 2 pulley/belt configurations. The flat belt was one of them. See attached. Renovoparts.com does have a replacement belt for it.

James Goodman
06-05-2022, 10:11 PM
Belt info did not upload.....let me try again.

480261480261480262480262

Sorry....duplicates uploaded.

James Goodman
06-05-2022, 10:53 PM
480263

One more pulley/belt page of info.

Bill Dufour
06-06-2022, 1:29 AM
I just use two link belts instead of vee belts. I repalced the original 3 phase cast iron motor with a smaller single phase 2hp motor. That switch changed the pulley spacing so the original belts became too short.
Bill D