Repairing a mid century bench (tongue and groove)

[Zack Hurley]

I was given a 60" mid century bench since it was "broken". But it just appears that one of the tongue and groove joints came loose (it is regular tongue and groove, not a slip tongue)

The tongue seems very thin but I'm not super familiar with this. Everything is in tact and in good shape.

To re-connect the two sides of this bench would I just apply glue and reattach the tongue/grove? I am not a woodworker, so any tips would be really appreciated!
I will note that the bench has two joints like this and the other one is in tact (appears to be glued).

Thanks!

https://i.imgur.com/QlSCJqL.png
https://i.imgur.com/t53iqyj.png

[Jim Becker]

Just clean the surfaces of any old glue, then re-glue and clamp. The T&G there is really for alignment...it allows the factory to assemble them quickly with less processing.

[Aaron Liebling]

To be very clear: apply glue to the whole length and width of the joint, not just the tiny little tongue (which as noted was just there for easy alignment)

[Zack Hurley]

Thank you! A few followup questions.

I don't see any real residual glue on the surfaces. Would I need to sand the joining surfaces or could I get away with gluing as-is? I'm not really in an environment where I can sand these right now. Or is there another way to prep the surfaces before gluing if needed (would vinegar or something work?)

Is there something that wood glue won't stick to? This is my first glue project. How do you prevent the glue from causing the piece you are working on to stick to the bench or surface below it when the bead comes out?

Finally, since this is a finished piece, is it best to wipe up the glue that beads out with a wet cloth while it is still wet? I'm assuming using a scraper or chisel to remove the bead once it has dried is not an option on finished wood.

Thanks again

[Jim Becker]

It's important that all existing glue is removed to insure that the new glue can stick if you plan on using PVA. (Titebond is one example of a PVA glue) If you can't really do that, scuff it will sandpaper and use epoxy. Use tape on the show surfaces to insure any squeeze out can be dealt with.

[Zack Hurley]

It's important that all existing glue is removed to insure that the new glue can stick if you plan on using PVA. (Titebond is one example of a PVA glue) If you can't really do that, scuff it will sandpaper and use epoxy. Use tape on the show surfaces to insure any squeeze out can be dealt with.

Thanks. What is the best way to remove the old glue? I plan on using gorilla wood glue

[Jim Becker]

Thanks. What is the best way to remove the old glue? I plan on using gorilla wood glue

Without knowing what the old glue actually is, it's hard to suggest anything over than abrasion. If you are going to use the Gorilla (PVA) wood glue, it's essential that all the old glue is gone. If you are going to use the Gorilla polyurethane glue, you may be fine with just basic abrasion for "tooth". But personally, with all the unknowns, I'd use a decent epoxy product for this repair.

[Zack Hurley]

Without knowing what the old glue actually is, it's hard to suggest anything over than abrasion. If you are going to use the Gorilla (PVA) wood glue, it's essential that all the old glue is gone. If you are going to use the Gorilla polyurethane glue, you may be fine with just basic abrasion for "tooth". But personally, with all the unknowns, I'd use a decent epoxy product for this repair.

That makes sense. Thanks. So acetone or vinegar wouldn’t remove old glue? I honestly can’t even see any old glue on it.

I’d prefer to use something non toxic like gorilla glue over epoxy. I’d be eating on this table. Would maybe a paint scraper or something work?

My other thought is to maybe glue or screw some braces on the bottom.

I understand it’s hard to know without looking at it

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Try a damp sponge and see if the edges get sticky after having been carefully dampened a few times. +1 for tape, along with carefully timed cleanup. Lately I am growing fond of Titebond III, for extended open time, good color, and ease of cleanup.

[Zack Hurley]

Try a damp sponge and see if the edges get sticky after having been carefully dampened a few times. +1 for tape, along with carefully timed cleanup. Lately I am growing fond of Titebond III, for extended open time, good color, and ease of cleanup.

Thanks. If the edges get sticky what does that mean?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

If it was glued with Elmer's or Lepage's, water should soften the old glue. Sanding is also very good advice.

[Zack Hurley]

If it was glued with Elmer's or Lepage's, water should soften the old glue. Sanding is also very good advice.

Oh ok thanks! So if it gets sticky, in theory could the glue be removed with water or vinegar/water etc?

[Jim Becker]

There is no issue with toxicity with using epoxy with the repair once it's cured.

It's true that acetone or vinegar might loosen existing glue, but it depends upon what kind of glue was originally used to build the piece. Some glues are very resistance to chemical and moisture "attack" vs others.

[Thomas Wilson]

If you sand the joint, be careful not to round the edges. It will make the joint more visible. Be sure to clamp it up with a bar clamp every 8-12 inches. The glue needs to be squeezed down to a fairly thin layer with clamping pressure to achieve maximum strength.

[Jamie Buxton]

You can't see any old glue on the surface. I can't see any glue on the surface in the pics. The joint came apart easily, without damaging the wood in any visible way. It might well be that the table was built without glue on that joint. Why? I don't know. Maybe a brain cramp in the factory?

If it is true that the table had no glue in that joint, you can glue it without cleaning the glue off.

[Zack Hurley]

Thanks everybody,
The surface does not seem sticky when wetting. And I say I don't see glue but I am not familiar with stuff so not entirely sure what that would look like. I will say that the other joint on this table has visible glue beaded out in some areas.

I have three bar clamps. For a 60" piece would I need more than that even with the tongue and grove? (it pushes together perfectly tight/flush)

Is it possible to wet sand these areas? I live in an apartment with not real work area which is why I was hoping to avoid sanding or anything toxic like epoxy

[Tom Bender]

Let's back up a minute. Does this joint need glue? It may be fastened in another way. Can you provide a couple pictures of the bench or table?

Don't use acetone as it likely will damage the finish along the joint.

Many types of adhesive may be fine and may adhere to the surface as it exists, test by applying a tiny dot where it will not show. Maybe glue on the end of a wooden toothpick. You will have to chip this off later with a pocket knife.

Double stick tape may be adequate for this joint if it is not stressed. If it fails you loose only time and effort.