Media blasting live edges

[Jonathan Jung]

Which media or method is best for blasting live edges to remove dirt and the cambium layer? Could the right media even remove the bark? I know it's done, but I am not sure if walnut shells or soda is best. Seems a soda blaster is cheaper than a setup for walnut shells. Sure would work well for burls and highly varied edges on slabs.

[Kevin Jenness]

I tried walnut shell on a burl- gave a fine finish but very slow. Best would be to find a blasting shop to do some samples with various media. Sandblasting takes a lot of air.

Have you tried pressure washing the bark off? A wire wheel followed by a sanding mop is effective once the bark is gone.

[Richard Coers]

If the slab is cut spring through early summer you can tap on the bark with a hammer and that breaks the bond of the cambium layer. The whole strip will peel right off. Then I use a french curve card scraper to remove the cambium layer. With your two chosen blasting materials, I assume you want the grain to be smooth with no texture? Both of them will be extremely slow on dry slabs. You'd also want to do that before surfacing to preserve the edge.

[Dan Friedrichs]

+1 for Kevin's power washer suggestion. Works really well.

[Jim Becker]

Watch a few videos from Blacktail Studio on the 'Tube. He uses brushes and various cleanup techniques to insure that the actual natural edge is preserved.

[johnny means]

We use a brush sander after knocking off the bark with the nearest weapon at hand.

[Prashun Patel]

I recommend a drawknife and then a cup brush on an angle grinder. Way more control. No need to bring a gun when a knife will do in this fight.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

There is an old thread with a link that shows "The Restorer" a drum style wire wheel especially for wood.

This is not exactly what I was remembering but its close.

Original Restorer Tool - A Wellington Corp Patented Invention (https://www.restorertools.com/product/official-restorer-brand-original-restorer-tool/)

[Mick Simon]

I so misinterpreted the title to this thread. I thought, "Doesn't the media have anything better to do than bash live edge tables?"

[scott lipscomb]

Knock the bark off and then wire wheel/angle grinder for me with oak.

[Erik Loza]

‘nuther vote for the wire brush. Actually, I’ve been using these cup brushes from Harbor Freight that have red synthetic bristles. A little friendlier to the hands when installing/removing.

Erik

[Bradley Gray]

Draw knife followed by 4 x 10" mac mops from Kingspor 100 &180 grit.

[Jonathan Jung]

Here's why I want an option beyond brushes:

479914

Highly figured edges of myrtle, walnut, maple. Getting in/around all those textures.

Water may work, and I can try that on most slabs, but some I don't want to soak in water, for example if my supplier has already planed and sanded the slab.

Can any media blaster spray walnut shell? Can a soda blaster also blast walnut shell?

Which sanding mop should I try first? Seems the brown abrasive "spindle mounted mop" would be the best so the abrasive is orientate outwards. Whereas the gold unit it's orientated perpendicular to the spinning.

https://www.woodworkingshop.com/abrasives/specialty-abrasives-accessories/contour-sanding-stars-and-mops/

[Prashun Patel]

In fact the undulations of a burl like that are well suited to a wire brush. To each his own.

[Kevin Jenness]

You'll have a slow time of it removing tight bark from those surfaces with walnut shell. As well, you will need to protect any adjacent surfaces. One carver told me he uses glass beads on burl edges but I have not tried it.

I have one of the fine gold sanding mops and some flap wheels. They do ok at polishing but the coarser grits tend to smear details. Plus they don't last forever and aren't inexpensive. I have considered getting a Sand-O-Flex wheel as the refills aren't too expensive, but you will have to experiment. Ideally you want to "pop" the bark off at which point the surface below shouldn't need a lot of work, but that is easier said than done. That's why you get the big bucks for live edge work, right?

[John C Bush]

Shell blasting is the easiest for removing the cambium layer, then I use a Sand-O-Flex wheel for final "polish". Wire wheels help for the stubborn bark remnants but they leave scratches that take more sanding time. I have the cheapest sandblaster that Northern tools sold 25 years ago and it works great. I stick the end of the venturi hose in the box of shells and good to go.
It does use a lot of air so be patient and do it outside. I usually blast on a tarp and reuse the shells.
Good luck

[Jonathan Jung]

Sounds like I'll just have to try it, as some are saying it won't remove cambium, some are saying it will.

[Kevin Jenness]

When I blasted with walnut shells I reused the media but I found I had to sift it to prevent clogging the tip with bark schmutz -very tedious. You may have different results. The shells were not cheap.

[John C Bush]

It will remove the cambium layer on the maple slab edge(guessing it is a western big leaf) in your picture and is perfect for the undulating surface.