Exterior Window Trimming

[Mike Goetzke]

I plan to trim the outside of my new windows with brick mold. I watched several videos and they all show applying it flush to the window frame and this is how my old 40 year old windows are. I just found in the fine print of the window directions that they say to leave a 1/4" gap all the way around for siding and 1/2" for brick (for expansion).


So me trying to get ahead of things precut the molding for a pretty tight fit. Not the worse thing if I need to buy more brick mold but wondering is this 1/4" gap necessary?

(I'm having the house re-sided next so maybe have the contractor provide the 1/4" clearance?)


Thanks

[Tom M King]

I've never left that much, but I've only been doing that type of stuff for 48 years now, and never saw that much on 200 year old houses either. I can't imagine many places have more of a humidity swing than we have here. I've never used the plastic parts.

[Jim Becker]

Room for seasonal expansion/contraction that is caulked is a good idea in general. Some modern siding products actually require it. (LP's products, for example)

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for the replies. I found out there is an Andersen dealer close by. I went there and they were very helpful. They said they don't leave much of a gap and the 1/4" is for siding to frame so when applying the siding will need gap/caulk. (I looked and I have a good 1/8" gap between the molding and window.)

[Lee Schierer]

It would be helpful to know what type of siding is planned.

[Mike Goetzke]

It would be helpful to know what type of siding is planned. LP SmartSide

[Jim Becker]

LP SmartSide
LP Smartside has very specific gap requirements that must be met to have the warranty. There are even tools to help insure those gaps are kept. One must also touch up the cut ends with their roll on paint, both on the siding products and the trim materials. It's work, but the end result can be really, really nice.