Nailed It!

[Jim Koepke]

One of my habits (not going to debate whether it is good or bad) is to keep extras of many things. This has mostly been made stronger by living miles from the nearest retail establishment of any kind.

A round trip to town is going to take up at least an hour or two, not to mention the cost of gas.

One thing found to be very handy is a large nail. The last time an 80d (about 8"X5/16") was put in to a permanent use another one was purchased on the next shopping trip in to town. At that time there was also some large spikes at the Orange Borg. So a 12"X3/8" was also purchased.

Recently at an estate sale a small bundle of five nails was purchased. That has added to my assortment of large nails/spikes:

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The third one from the bottom was salvaged from a piece of lumber from an old barn. It is kept because it has a square shaft. Not sure how old that one might be.

The largest nail/spike has been helpful in restoring a socket on a socket chisel that was mushroomed:

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Recently it has also helped with pulling large staples out of a fence post:

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A new fence with a different orientation is going to be erected. This post has been an intersection for a few fences over the years. Getting a hold of the staples to pull them was a real challenge. Then it struck me. Drive a large wedge under the staples to lift them out enough to get a good grip with a pair of pliers. The end was first ground to a smoother point for this task.

Life is easy.

jtk

[Bill Dufour]

A nail puller would do that easier. I actually gave one away because the foot/lever was not a hook that could hang from a nail. I learned that about caulking guns years ago.
Bill D.

[Roger Feeley]

Im in full agreement about keeping spares. Having to go to the hardware store for one nut frustrates me. I’ve taken to buying frequently used fasteners by the box. Years ago, my brother gave me a microfilm cabinet and that has been a godsend. The drawers and dividers are perfect for boxes of fasteners. For oddball stuff, I use cheap plastic electrical boxes. Again, the divisions in the drawers are ideal.

[Jim Becker]

I have a few of those large nails/spikes around here somewhere...they are misplaced at the moment since moving, but I suspect they are in a box in the shed. They are very handy for sure, for so many things.

[Edward Weber]

I always have spares.
From early on, I would always buy a box of screws if I only needed a dozen or so. That's just one example but you get the point. Over the years I've built up a decent inventory of hardware that limits the amount of time I have to be in the fastener aisle at the store.
I'm not as far out in the boonies as Jim but 8 miles is the closest hardware store and it's an old Ace Hardware and it's a small one.
Those folks that make multiple trips to the BORG for one simple project do leave me scratching my head at times.
Interesting use of what look like old tent pegs

[Jim Koepke]

A nail puller would do that easier. I actually gave one away because the foot/lever was not a hook that could hang from a nail. I learned that about caulking guns years ago.
Bill D.

Bill, I have and tried a nail puller on these. It might have worked if the staples were in horizontally. It was almost impossible to get any penetration to under the staple with any wire under the staple.

The wedging with a nail and pulling with a pliers was much faster and less frustrating.

jtk

[Rick Potter]

Jim,

I have a special tool made for such tasks. For some reason it is called a screwdriver.

[Ronald Blue]

I always found these to be very good at pulling staples. Fence pliers.

https://www.qcsupply.com/diamond-fence-tool.html?msclkid=083fbbdff8ad12bfab5dd952d6407c6b

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Pliers-Fencing-2078901/dp/B000JNPQX4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=fence+pliers&qid=1653419969&sr=8-2

[Jim Koepke]

Jim,

I have a special tool made for such tasks. For some reason it is called a screwdriver.

I don't like messing up my screw drivers by using them as a prying tool. I was using an awl, but it didn't have enough of a shaft to wedge out the end or give it any prying strength.


I always found these to be very good at pulling staples. Fence pliers.

https://www.qcsupply.com/diamond-fence-tool.html?msclkid=083fbbdff8ad12bfab5dd952d6407c6b

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Pliers-Fencing-2078901/dp/B000JNPQX4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=fence+pliers&qid=1653419969&sr=8-2

One of those was considered but didn't seem to have much usability after the fence work is done.

jtk

[Jim Becker]

There are special fencing pliers available that are very helpful with that removal task...example:

https://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/9fc4a8332f9638515cd199dd0f9238da/i/m/image_12284.jpg

[Malcolm McLeod]

I always found these to be very good at pulling staples. Fence pliers.

https://www.qcsupply.com/diamond-fence-tool.html?msclkid=083fbbdff8ad12bfab5dd952d6407c6b

https://www.amazon.com/Tools-VISE-GRIP-Pliers-Fencing-2078901/dp/B000JNPQX4/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=fence+pliers&qid=1653419969&sr=8-2

...a pair in every saddle bag in TX. (Probably a couple other semi-notable states too.);)

[Bill Dufour]

Bill, I have and tried a nail puller on these. It might have worked if the staples were in horizontally. It was almost impossible to get any penetration to under the staple with any wire under the staple.
It is a fence post no need to be careful. just slam the hammer action in a few times to get deep into the wood and under the staple. I reccomend as deep below the wood surface as the wire diameter, or more.
Bill D

[John K Jordan]

I keep a supply of the 12” galvanized nails on hand. One great use is to hold stall mats in place. Put a large fender washer on some nails and drive them thru the mat and into the ground. This has kept 4x6 stall mats in place outside the stall entrances at my barn, even though the ground is sloped a little away from the barn. I do spread and tamp gravel before positioning the mats. These mats have been in place for maybe 10 years and get heavy use from donkeys, llamas, and sometimes horses.

I also use big nails to mark key points on underground utilities - tie some marker tape to them and refresh as needed. Pound them in flush with the ground. If I can’t locate them visually the metal detector finds them quickly.

JKJ

[Jim Koepke]

It is a fence post no need to be careful. just slam the hammer action in a few times to get deep into the wood and under the staple. I reccomend as deep below the wood surface as the wire diameter, or more.
Bill D

Tried that and there are a couple of problems:

If there is a wire under the staple it doesn't work. Getting the wire out first is more work.

The next problem is if the staple runs vertical on a round post, once the pincers are around the nail there isn't any place for the lever to push against.

The fence pliers would have been the best manufactured solution. My nail saved me the cost of buying a new tool that wouldn't get much use in the future. This is my first major fence changing project, and hopefully the last, for me.

jtk

[John K Jordan]

...
The fence pliers would have been the best manufactured solution. My nail saved me the cost of buying a new tool that wouldn't get much use in the future. This is my first major fence changing project, and hopefully the last, for me.


I recently had trouble removing some stapled barbed wire even with the fence pliers shown. (A neighbor stapled to trees about 3' over the line - maybe his eyesight isn't good.) For some, the pliers worked well, hammering in the point so it went under the wire. For the problem staples I made shallow horizontal saw cuts just above and below the staple. Then used a big pry bar to pop out a chunk of wood around the staple, giving enough room so get under and pry out the staple. The trees will survive.

For me, the fence pliers worth having on hand, are useful for a variety of things.

JKJ

[Edward Weber]

I have a pair of fencing pliers like to pair shown but in Jim's circumstance they aren't that helpful.
Trying to pry a staple or nail horizontally from a round post is a PITA and usually does more damage than necessary to the wooden post.
While I use a small spud bar for situations like this, Jim's method is sound and probably does less damage
Example
https://www.grainger.com/product/38GN95?gucid=N:N:FPL:Free:GGL:CSM-1946:tew63h3:20501231

[Brian Elfert]

I always have spares.
Those folks that make multiple trips to the BORG for one simple project do leave me scratching my head at times.


Projects don't always go the way one planned. I try to minimize trips to the store because it is 8 to 10 miles to the store, but often times a project changes as it progresses. I was remodeling a basement bathroom and after the drywall came off it was obvious the wall needed to be rebuilt. Off to the store for a pile of 2x4s. Many other examples of similar changes as projects progress.

[Edward Weber]

There are always going to be times when one needs to go and buy project supplies. Trying to minimize the frequency of having to travel to the store was the point.
I'm guessing you didn't make one trip for the studs, another trip for the nails, another for drywall, another for drywall screws, tape, mud, primer, paint, trim and so on.
Keeping a small inventory can save a lot of time and money. JMHO

[Jim Koepke]

Those folks that make multiple trips to the BORG for one simple project do leave me scratching my head at times.

The way an old timer explained it to me is every project requires three trips to the store.

The first trip is to buy everything you think you need.

The second trip is to buy all the things you didn't realize you would need.

The third trip is to return all the stuff you thought you would need but didn't.

jtk

[Edward Weber]

I think that sums it up nicely

[Lawrence Duckworth]

The way an old timer explained it to me is every project requires three trips to the store.

The first trip is to buy everything you think you need.

The second trip is to buy all the things you didn't realize you would need.

The third trip is to return all the stuff you thought you would need but didn't.

jtk

:D When doing any kind of plumbing the first thing I do is get a full tank of gas

[Maurice Mcmurry]

Our depression era house has no closets. I made a bit of a cloths hanging spot with two big nails.

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[Jim Becker]

The way an old timer explained it to me is every project requires three trips to the store.

The first trip is to buy everything you think you need.

The second trip is to buy all the things you didn't realize you would need.

The third trip is to return all the stuff you thought you would need but didn't.

jtk

I think you missed step 2-B and sometimes 2-C which is to return to the store(s) to buy more stuff/different stuff because you either forgot more somethings or did a "project redesign" partway through. Maybe even more than once. There is also another step between 2 and 3 required...trying to figure out where you bought what that needs to be returned since invariably, no one source had everything and you had to go to four different stores.

No good project goes unpunished...

[Bill Dufour]

I remember my father told me if he needed to buy one hose clamp he was sure to need another soon so He would buy two and save one for latter.
Bill D

[Jim Koepke]

I remember my father told me if he needed to buy one hose clamp he was sure to need another soon so He would buy two and save one for latter.
Bill D

Your father and many others, including myself, have shared in this philosophy. It also makes for great estate sales so our heirs can have a little cash for a family dinner.

jtk

[Edward Weber]

Your father and many others, including myself, have shared in this philosophy. It also makes for great estate sales so our heirs can have a little cash for a family dinner.

jtk

this is a general exaggeration but,
If you go to the BORG in need of a few screws, a bag of 10 can cost $3, a box of 100 will cost $10. I usually buy a box.

[Bill Dufour]

We do not drink coffee but our friend works in the school kitchen. She gives us cases of empty #10 cans when we ask. If we need them soon we have to wash them out. If we can wait a week or so she runs them through the big dishwasher at school.
Bill D

[Jim Koepke]

Sadly the Borgs and other stores do not carry as many boxes of 100 as they used to.

jtk

[John K Jordan]

Sadly the Borgs and other stores do not carry as many boxes of 100 as they used to.


When I need a fastener I don’t have in stock (rare but it does happen) I go to a local industrial supplier - they have a warehouse with probably every type of fastener made. Not only will they have what I need but the price is better than the hardware or big box store, regardless of quantity.

Whether I need 5 or 50 I always buy at least a hundred. Also, if I go for a certain length and gauge I generally get some other sizes to stock my shelves. After a few years of this my stock on hand increased and the times I don’t have the right fastener are fewer.

I really like having a variety of hardware on hand, from cotter pins to roll pins, big lag screws to tiny metric socket screws, hose clamps to pipe clamps, washers, springs, o-rings, wire, etc. Same for materials: steel, aluminum, brass, plastics and such in a variety of useful sizes and shapes. And tools. When repairing or making something I really, really dislike stopping to go shopping.