Screw chuck recommendation

[Richard Dooling]

I currently use a Nova four jaw chuck with their woodworm screw and that's been okay.

I'd like to have a dedicated screw chuck and have read positive reviews of the Glaser product here. The threads look sharper than some other screws I've seen and it looks very well made but it's priced a bit high for me..

Any other chucks you would recommend? How about the Craft Supplies screw chuck?
https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/109/6506/precision-machine-3-in-1-Screw-Chuck?term=screw+chuck&term=screw%20chuck

Thanks

[Don Stephan]

For smaller bowl blanks I use the Craft Supplies dedicated screw chucks a lot, mainly the larger one. Never had a problem with them. I'd love to get the Vicmarc dedicated screw chuck because it offers a wider base, but it is expensive for my budget.

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks Don.

This looks like it fits their chuck unless you have a different one.


The Jumbo Reversible Collar provides a 4-1/2" and 6-1/2" face that's ideal when chucking large bowls and platters. For use with the Precision Machine 3-in-1 Screw Chuck.
Machined from a solid aluminum billet

https://www.woodturnerscatalog.com/p/109/6507/precision-machine-3-in-1-Screw-Chuck-Jumbo-Reversible-Collar

[John K Jordan]

I currently use a Nova four jaw chuck with their woodworm screw and that's been okay.

I'd like to have a dedicated screw chuck and have read positive reviews of the Glaser product here. The threads look sharper than some other screws I've seen and it looks very well made but it's priced a bit high for me..
…

Richard, I’ve used several and for me the Glaser is worth the extra cost. I use one to start nearly all face turnings, bowls, platters, etc. In fact I like this chuck so much I bought a second one when Glaser Hitec finally produced them after Jerry passed away. I got the second one mostly as a backup since I would REALLY hate to be without it if I lost or broke the original (both unlikely, but hey) I got my first one directly for Jerry a bunch of years ago and it shows no sign of deterioration.

The hardened screw is machined to have a very sharp thread which bits easily the wood and holds well. I drill a 1/4” hole in the blank. The woodworm screws that come with Nova chucks and other sources are crudely made in comparison.

Note that you can save a little when you purchase from Alan Lacer instead of Hitec: https://stores.alanswoodturningstore.com/glaser-screw-chucks/ That’s what I did for the second one.

I wish you were close enough that you could try one of mine before you decided. I have no experience with the one from Craft Supplies but I’d like to try one to compare.

JKJ

[David Walser]

Richard -- I have the Precision Machine 3" Screw Center Chuck from CSUSA. It works very well. I got mine before they came out with their 3-in-1 chuck, which you linked to. Is the 3-in-1 chuck worth $30 more than the version I have? Maybe. I seldom turn smaller items using a screw chuck, so I don't know that I'd have much use for 1.5" and 2.5" versions of the 3-in-1 chuck. Instead, I often find I want one that is larger than the 3" version that I have. However, I have a few plywood disks that I use for this purpose. Generally, I find the length of the screw longer than I need. Adding a 3/8" plywood disk to the chuck increases the chuck's effective diameter, while still leaving plenty of threads on the screw exposed for work holding. YMMV.

[Neil Strong]

My professional woodturning mate got one of those Glaser screw chucks from Jerry way back when... and he reckons it was the best he used for when he was doing production work. He and I both predate most modern innovations in woodturning chucks, so we have tried out most of the options as they have come along.

I got my brother (a lecturer in fitting and turning at trade school) to machine one up with the same thread profile as Jerry's. It was better than the stock screws that come with most chucks, but not overwhelming so, IME, and certainly not enough to trouble him to make some more for me or buy some from Jerry.

I use screw chucking on bowls up to about 16" and on larger platters. Above that and on deeper forms I use faceplate rings as I do all faceplate work outboard and without tailstock support, so need a firmer hold with those. I also find it easier to release larger pieces from faceplate rings than screw chucks as the torque on the screw with larger pieces makes them very difficult to unscrew without marring the completed outside of the piece.

One of the benefits of the stock screws is that you get one with each chuck. I can have up to half a dozen pieces off the lathe secured to screw chucks waiting to go back on the lathe, so the cost for that number of dedicated screw chucks would be consideration for me.

Another benefit of the stock screws is that they can be secured in almost any of the available chuck jaw sets, which provide a wide range of 'backing plate' sizes right up to 8".

Before those, we had to make our own DIY screw chucks... it's not difficult, all you need is a block of wood and a lag screw. Make it with a S/S M12-1/2 lag screw (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/233775704443) and it won't let go in a hurry... 316 grade S/S has twice the tensile strength of mild steel. And, if that thread isn't 'sharp' enough for you, just grind out some of the thread flanks with a diamond burr in a Dremel.

[Richard Dooling]

Richard, I’ve used several and for me the Glaser is worth the extra cost. I use one to start nearly all face turnings, bowls, platters, etc. In fact I like this chuck so much I bought a second one when Glaser Hitec finally produced them after Jerry passed away. I got the second one mostly as a backup since I would REALLY hate to be without it if I lost or broke the original (both unlikely, but hey) I got my first one directly for Jerry a bunch of years ago and it shows no sign of deterioration.

The hardened screw is machined to have a very sharp thread which bits easily the wood and holds well. I drill a 1/4” hole in the blank. The woodworm screws that come with Nova chucks and other sources are crudely made in comparison.

Note that you can save a little when you purchase from Alan Lacer instead of Hitec: https://stores.alanswoodturningstore.com/glaser-screw-chucks/ That’s what I did for the second one.

I wish you were close enough that you could try one of mine before you decided. I have no experience with the one from Craft Supplies but I’d like to try one to compare.

JKJ

Hi John, I hope you are well,

The quality of the screw is what initially caught my eye. I agree that the Nova threads are coarse and a little difficult to get started sometimes. Screw lube helps. The Glaser/Hitec site states, "The screw grips tenaciously, even in end grain. . . "

I assume this means a solid piece of hardwood but do you agree it has superior holding power in end grain?

Thanks for the link,

Richard

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks David,

I can see myself using the smaller face for small ornamental items. The plywood disk is a good idea.

Richard

[Richard Dooling]

Thank you Neil,

I tend to use faceplates for things that fit but I like the quick change a screw chuck offers when turning multiple small to medium size items. I like the idea of a dedicated screw chuck but at Glaser's price point I can just about buy a decent four jaw chuck that's set aside for this.

I have enough of the Nova woodworm screws to try your idea of sharpening the threads with a Dremel.

Doc Green's book on chucks has several variations on shop made chucks and I've done this for small work. I find it's helpful sometimes to have a wood body chuck that lets you cut smoothly off the workpiece and into the chuck.

Richard

[John K Jordan]

Hi John, I hope you are well,

The quality of the screw is what initially caught my eye. I agree that the Nova threads are coarse and a little difficult to get started sometimes. Screw lube helps. The Glaser/Hitec site states, "The screw grips tenaciously, even in end grain. . . "

I assume this means a solid piece of hardwood but do you agree it has superior holding power in end grain?

Thanks for the link,

Richard
They hold extremely well, even with unbalanced blanks and large blanks, even when cutting aggressively. They do hold on end grain but I don’t know what size, weight, and any of imbalance can be handled. I usually stick to jaws compressed on a tenon for end grain pieces. I used the screw chucks on plywood and mdf.

The Glaser comes with three interchangeable contact flanges (and an optional very large one available) depending on the size of the blank. I always mount on a flat spot. The threads cut into the wood so cleanly there are rarely any deformed fibers pried up at the circumference of the mounting hole. Sometimes I had to “fight” with the coarser wormwood screws to get them started and threaded. And of course, like most screw chucks you can remount the piece later and it will be in perfect registration (an advantage over using chuck jaws on a tenon or recess, for those unfamiliar with screw chucks).

JKJ

[Walter Mooney]

Richard,

I will tag onto Mr. Strong’s statement about making your own screw chuck, and Mr. Walser’s thoughts on smaller pieces. Before you spend all that time grinding, you could probably make three or four screw chucks using the following sequence:


Put a 2”x2”x4” (50x50x100mm) or so piece of hardwood (maple, oak, mesquite, etc.) between centers and turn a tenon on one end to properly fit in your chuck of choice. Then put it in the chuck, turn it to final shape, with whatever diameter you want on the exposed end.

Drill a pilot hole in the exposed end for whatever screw you intend to use. I usually measure the shaft portion of the screw, between threads, with my calipers to find the right-size pilot bit.

Then, if you’re using a sheetmetal screw like that shown in my photos, put a Phillips screw driver bit in your Jacob’s Chuck. Put the point of the screw in the pilot hole and slide your tail stock with the driver bit in the JC up to the whole thing and lock down the tail stock, putting just a little pressure on the screw.

Now, manually, simultaneously turn your block of wood toward you with your left hand (spinning ccw) and your tail stock handle away from you with your right hand (spinning cw). Turn them 1/3 - 1/2 of a rotation each time, thus advancing the screw into the block of wood while keeping it perfectly aligned and running true with the tail stock bit!

When it’s in to whatever length you require/desire, keep everything as is and get your hacksaw (or port-a-band) out and cut the head of the screw off (a lot of elbow grease with a hacksaw :D). The driver bit/tip in place will help keep the screw from wanting to move back and forth or vibrate as you cut. No need, IMO, to grind a point on the exposed end of the screw, because you’re going to be inserting it into a pilot hole you’ve drilled in whatever piece you’re mounting on your custom made screw chuck!

If you’re using a lag screw (for bigger diameter necessities), use a socket of the correct size in a hex-to-square adapter in your Jacob’s Chuck.

I apologize for the photos being a little out of sequence, and not inserted within the text as I would rather have had them!

Best of luck to you, whatever route you choose. Stay safe, both within your shop and outside of it.





Best of luck to you, whatever route you choose. Stay safe, both within your shop and outside of it.

[Neil Strong]

I like the idea of a dedicated screw chuck but at Glaser's price point I can just about buy a decent four jaw chuck that's set aside for this.





My thoughts exactly, Richard.


JKJ, I have no doubt that the Glaser is the best screw chuck on the market, but it is very 'exxy' for a small lump of machined metal and a custom made screw, especially when compared to the many other offerings available for around one fourth the price, eg...


https://www.popsshed.com.au/Product_Main.aspx?cid=8&scid=26&pid=7259


https://www.thewoodturningstore.com/hurricane-turning-tools-4-faceplate-screw-chuckn-1-x-8tpi/


https://www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=7&product_id=455


https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CF3SC.html


https://www.axminstertools.com/global/axminster-screw-chuck-to-fit-type-a-dovetail-jaws-810383


Looking at the screw for that Axminster it seems to me to be not much different to the Glaser and way way cheaper...

https://www.axminstertools.com/global/axminster-wood-screw-chuck-replacement-large-screw-910466



But. if anyone definitely prefers the screw on the Glaser then perhaps just buy that component and add it to one of the above backplates (or make your own as Walter has done)...


https://glaserhitec.com/product/1-2-screw-chuck-replacement-screw/


Although, at US$50 for just the screw component, that is one very expensive small bit of machined metal... orthopedic titanium bone screws are cheaper... :~}

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread!

John,
The Glazers sure look sharp - much nice than the Nova woodworm. I’ve struggled with them at times and have noticed that they do seem to tear up the wood - especially softer woods like ambrosia maple. That’s got to somewhat reduce how well they hold.

This Axminster product looks pretty sharp too:
https://www.axminstertools.com/us/axminster-wood-screw-chuck-replacement-large-screw-910466

Thinking about a way to mount this without losing too much thread.

Walter,
Thanks for the very detailed post!

These are similar to Doc Green’s shop made chucks.
https://www.docgreenwoodturner.com/screwchuck.html

I hadn’t thought of screwing in a bolt or screw and then cutting off head. I’ve been mounting from the back and trimming the tip. This means I can have any shape or size (solid) base since the screw doesn’t start at the back of the base. DOH!

Neil,

These are some very nice alternative sources you’ve provided.

The Axminster looks very nice but it looks like it’s looks to be geared to their jaw sets. As I mentioned to John, I’m wondering if I might be able to adapt the screw somehow. I agree that it looks to have very sharp threads - similar to the Glaser.

I know an orthopedic surgeon. Maybe he can get me some cut-offs!

[Richard Dooling]

Trying to lock this down. My ever supportive wife feels like I should get what I want if I agree to stop talking about it. Seems reasonable.

I’ve come down to two possibilities
The Glaser gets universal praise except for its price.
Vicmarc has a 3 in 1 and I know many turners feel they make excellent chucks.
https://www.packardwoodworks.com/118130J.html

Does anyone have experience with the Vicmark 3 in 1 screw chuck?
It looks pretty good and the screw threads appear sharp. As far as I can tell it has only one screw option where the Glaser has the stock screw with 3/8” and 1/2” options. I don’t know if that’s an advantage. If you want a larger screw for larger work shouldn’t you be using a faceplate?

Thanks

[John K Jordan]

I never measured the Glaser screws. From what you say my two are prob 3/8” with a 1/4” center shaft since I drill a 1/4” hole and screw directly into that.

I have never felt the need for a larger screw. The stock screw has held everything I’ve turned from 19” platters to a large 16” walnut bowl, turned green. I do flatten the contact area with the chuck before drilling and fastening. I have never had one loosen even a bit. Of course, someone who is an expert at getting catches might have another story. Most of my use is with dry wood, mounted balanced.

I’ve never seen the Vicmark 3 in 1. From the pictures it looks like a license/copy/ripoff of the Glaser with some minor differences. It comes standard with the same reversible/removable cone base to provide 3 sizes of contact area plates. (The Glaser does offer an option for an extra large contact cone but I personally wouldn’t have a use for that. Even the machined screw looks the same. (I found one forum description which said the Vicmark uses the actual Glaser screw. Don’t know the facts.)

One small disadvantage of these screw chucks is you have to buy it threaded to fit your lathe spindle. If you change lathes later to one with a different spindle thread you might have to buy another or use an adapter (which I would hate to use.) My three primary lathes and all those in clubs where I’ve done demos all use 1-1/4”x8 tpi spindle threads.

Here’s an idea: If you buy the 1-1/4x8 Glaser (from Alan Lacer) and don’t like it for any reason list it on Classifieds and I’ll buy it (if someone doesn’t beat me to it!). On occasion I wished I had three. :)

Hey, your wife sounds like mine! “Just get it already so I can get back to reading/gardening/cooking/whatever”

JKJ


Trying to lock this down. My ever supportive wife feels like I should get what I want if I agree to stop talking about it. Seems reasonable.

I’ve come down to two possibilities
The Glaser gets universal praise except for its price.
Vicmarc has a 3 in 1 and I know many turners feel they make excellent chucks.
https://www.packardwoodworks.com/118130J.html egri

Does anyone have experience with the Vicmark 3 in 1 screw chuck?
It looks pretty good and the screw threads appear sharp. As far as I can tell it has only one screw option where the Glaser has the stock screw with 3/8” and 1/2” options. I don’t know if that’s an advantage. If you want a larger screw for larger work shouldn’t you be using a faceplate?

Thanks

[Neil Strong]

Does anyone have experience with the Vicmark 3 in 1 screw chuck?


Not the 3 in 1, but I do use the Vicmarc screws... and have no complaints with those.

If you are considering Vicmarc, have a look at their 'Dual Screw Faceplate'.

Depending on what chucks/jaw sizes you have...


Small dovetail side can be used with VM90 / VM100. Jaws pick up on a perfect circle.
Larger dovetail side can be used with VM120 / VM150 by removing screw and reversing the face plate, replace on the opposite side


479923

That is a cheaper option than the 3 in 1 and it also allows you to remove the piece still attached to the screw to use the chuck for something else and then remount it in the chuck in exactly the same position while still attached to the screw. If you have the appropriate jaw sizes you get two backing plate sizes and you can always add your own spacer to get a larger backing plate size again, if needed.

[Richard Dooling]

I have ordered the Vicmarc 3 in 1 from Packard Woodworks. I doubt I'll need it but they have a liberal 30 day return policy if for some reason I don't like it. https://www.packardwoodworks.com/118130J.html


I had a nice conversation with someone at Packard who is familiar with both the Glaser and the Vicmark and he felt that the screw is equivalent to the Glaser. One thing that moved me over to the Vicmark is the fact that it has a steel body vs the Glaser's aluminum body.

John, I'm okay with the dedicated 1.25 x 8 thread since I don't see me changing lathes anytime soon. The guy at Packard agreed with you that the stock screw has been fine for everything he's done, so Glaser's screw options became less of an issue.

Neil, I had seen the Vicmark Dual Screw Faceplate but, like the Axminster, it appears to be matched to their jaws and all my chucks are Teknatool. Nice to hear that you are good with their screw quality.

Again, thanks for helping me with this!

[Richard Dooling]

I’ve had a chance to play around with the Vicmark 3 in 1 screw chuck and thought I’d give my impressions.

I like the all steel construction and the over-all build is very nice. The chuck has holes for a tommy bar and steel seems a better choice If I end up with a stuck chuck.

The only negative is ta-daaa, the screw. It’s not very sharp. The thread geometry is odd and not like the threads in the Glaser. Vicmark says to use a 1/4” drill but the screw has a terrible time cutting into wood of any density. I tried it in some dense walnut and it just tore the wood out without cutting threads. It worked much better at 5/16” and some lubricant helps as well.

I was going the try Neil’s suggestion and try to modify the threads with a dremel but thought of using a reground small scraper at slow speed. Some refining was also done turning the spindle by hand. I’ll work on it some more but even at this stage it’s much better. Of course this means I’m dealing with metal softer than the Glaser but it seems very useable,

481112481113481114

And just to throw around another candidate, this looks like a very well thought out idea. They say it is compatible withe the Nova chucks.

https://www.easywoodtools.com/product-page/easy-chucking-screw

[Neil Strong]

Richard, thank you for your review on the VM 3-in-1.

I'm surprised to see the thread on the VM screw as supplied. Not only does it look as though it wouldn't bite into wood, but from memory it doesn't look remotely like any of the screws that they supply with their standard chucks, well at least not the last time I bought one. That is puzzling!

Well done on the modification and good to hear that you now have something that is working for you.

[Edward Weber]

Richard, thank you for your review on the VM 3-in-1.

I'm surprised to see the thread on the VM screw as supplied. Not only does it look as though it wouldn't bite into wood, but from memory it doesn't look remotely like any of the screws that they supply with their standard chucks, well at least not the last time I bought one. That is puzzling!

Well done on the modification and good to hear that you now have something that is working for you.

The first photo looks almost like an acme thread more than a buttress thread with the peak of the thread flattened off so much, very strange. I don't remember the ones that come with their 4 jaw chucks looking like that either.

[John K Jordan]

...481112481113481114
...

That screw does look very odd, like someone machined it without much thought, testing, or even skill.

FWIW, I looked at the screws on both the original Glaser screw chuck and the newer, HiTech version. Oddly, they are different.

Jerry's original has a taper on both top and the bottom of each thread, the edge being very sharp shaped somewhat like your modified screw but each thread looking thinner.

The newer Glaser HiTec version has a different shape. It looks like each thread is a flat spiral with about .03" thickness with a taper machined on just the top (the side towards the wood). I can't tell the difference in their use - both hold very well with a 1/4" hole.

This is a picture of the HiTec (cell phone pic, not very good) - you might be able to see the flat bottom and the tapered top on some of the threads on the lower side of the screw in the photo:

481141

Contrary to what I thought neither of the screws are hardened steel, as per the file test. Or perhaps they are somewhat hardened and annealed for strength.

The one from easywood looks like it is machined to be self tapping. I've never found the need for that with the Glaser chucks, even with very dense wood.

JKJ

[Neil Strong]

Not only does it look as though it wouldn't bite into wood, but from memory it doesn't look remotely like any of the screws that they supply with their standard chucks, well at least not the last time I bought one. That is puzzling!

.


The first photo looks almost like an acme thread more than a buttress thread with the peak of the thread flattened off so much, very strange. I don't remember the ones that come with their 4 jaw chucks looking like that either.

I agree with you Edward, it's nothing like a buttress thread.

I was going to have a closer look at the VM screws the next time I'm at my workshop, but a quick look at VM website shows clearly a buttress thread on the screws they supply with their Chuck's.

https://vicmarc.com/product-page/chuck-accessories/chuck-wood-screw-detail

Richard, I reckon they sent you a half manufactured screw. You can still see the turned surface where they took the metal down to the thread OD before the thread was to be turned, which appears to be only half completed.

I know that VM acquired a new CNC machine recently and perhaps they are still adjusting their programs for that, but that does not excuse something like that screw getting through to a customer. Their quality assurance process should have picked that up. VM is known for the quality of their products, so this is quite unexpected.

If it was me, I would be sending VM (directly with a copy to your retailer) the photo of the screw as supplied asking them for some consideration for the trouble they have caused you... I would be looking for at least a replacement for the screw, plus some refund for my trouble.

If not adequately forthcoming, I would be sending them a link to this forum thread and having some further discussion about that here.

[Michael Cuthriell]

Another option is to buy a wood tap sized to your spindle and make your own. You can leave roughed out green turnings on it. I use SS lag screws, mostly 3/8" but have used smaller ones as well.

[Randy Heinemann]

My thoughts exactly, Richard.


JKJ, I have no doubt that the Glaser is the best screw chuck on the market, but it is very 'exxy' for a small lump of machined metal and a custom made screw, especially when compared to the many other offerings available for around one fourth the price, eg...


https://www.popsshed.com.au/Product_Main.aspx?cid=8&scid=26&pid=7259


https://www.thewoodturningstore.com/hurricane-turning-tools-4-faceplate-screw-chuckn-1-x-8tpi/


https://www.ronbrownsbest.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=7&product_id=455


https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CF3SC.html


https://www.axminstertools.com/global/axminster-screw-chuck-to-fit-type-a-dovetail-jaws-810383


Looking at the screw for that Axminster it seems to me to be not much different to the Glaser and way way cheaper...

https://www.axminstertools.com/global/axminster-wood-screw-chuck-replacement-large-screw-910466



But. if anyone definitely prefers the screw on the Glaser then perhaps just buy that component and add it to one of the above backplates (or make your own as Walter has done)...


https://glaserhitec.com/product/1-2-screw-chuck-replacement-screw/


Although, at US$50 for just the screw component, that is one very expensive small bit of machined metal... orthopedic titanium bone screws are cheaper... :~}

It appears that all of the alternatives listed are 8 X 1". That might partly explain why they are cheaper. None of them seem to offer 8 X 1 1/4" choices.

[David Walser]

It appears that all of the alternatives listed are 8 X 1". That might partly explain why they are cheaper. None of them seem to offer 8 X 1 1/4" choices.

Craft Supplies USA offers three dedicated screw chucks. One mounts in the spindle's Morse Taper. The other two come in both 8 x 1" and 8 x 1 1/4" spindle sizes. Are they as nice as the Glaser screw chuck? I cannot say. I've had their 3" screw chuck (which I bought before they offered their 3-in-1 version, which is similar to the Glaser design) for about 20 years. It's never failed me and works as well now as it did when new. If Glaser's chuck is better, it would be a case of my not being able to notice the difference in performance on my lathe. Mine holds securely and runs true with no wobble. I cannot fathom wanting more from a screw chuck.

Here are some links:

The one I have: https://woodturnerscatalog.com/p/109/5506/precision-machine-3-Inch-Screw-Center-Chuck?term=screw+chuck&term=screw%20chuck

Similar to Glaser: https://woodturnerscatalog.com/p/109/6506/precision-machine-3-in-1-Screw-Chuck?term=screw+chuck&term=screw%20chuck#ReviewsPanel

[John K Jordan]

… Mine holds securely and runs true with no wobble. I cannot fathom wanting more from a screw chuck.
…

I don’t remember of it was mentioned here but one nice advantage I like with using a good screw chuck instead of a scroll chuck is if you remove the work from the screw chuck and remount it later it maintains exact registration. (at least with dry wood, which is what I primarily turn) I do this often, for example mount a platter or bowl by the top and turn the foot and outside of the bottom completely. If I do several of these, for example to take various stages of completion to a demo, they always remount with perfect registration. I use only the Glaser but I suspect the other good screw chucks with sharp machined threads will work the same way.

JKJ

[David Walser]

I don’t remember of it was mentioned here but one nice advantage I like with using a good screw chuck instead of a scroll chuck is if you remove the work from the screw chuck and remount it later it maintains exact registration. (at least with dry wood, which is what I primarily turn) I do this often, for example mount a platter or bowl by the top and turn the foot and outside of the bottom completely. If I do several of these, for example to take various stages of completion to a demo, they always remount with perfect registration. I use only the Glaser but I suspect the other good screw chucks with sharp machined threads will work the same way.

JKJ

I agree, John. That is one of the great advantages of a screw chuck. Another is that they are so simple to set up and use. With a scroll chuck, you have to mount the piece between centers to turn a tenon (or mortise). With a scroll chuck, assuming one face of the blank is flat, you simply drill a hole in the blank of the appropriate size and depth.

But, that's the great disadvantage of a screw chuck. If you start a piece between centers, you can change the center as you rough-out the bowl to better balance the grain. With a screw chuck, the center is much harder (if not impossible) to change. For a lot of work, this 'great disadvantage' is no disadvantage at all.

[John K Jordan]

...
...disadvantage of a screw chuck. If you start a piece between centers, you can change the center as you rough-out the bowl to better balance the grain. With a screw chuck, the center is much harder (if not impossible) to change....

Good point. I haven't run into that for a long time, more useful perhaps with green, large, unbalanced, odd shapes. These days I rarely rough out a bowl, almost always turn dry wood and from squared up stock, often flattened on two sides. I just enjoy it more! I plan the orientation of the figure before I ever cut the blank. I'll often even run both sides of the blanks through the drum sander - this lets me see and evaluate the wood better and eliminate unpleasant surprises. Of course, some of the excitement of interactive discovery is missing but that's OK with me, just a different way of turning.

These are my typical blanks for starting my favorite Small Squarish Dished Platters, ready for the lathe:

481284

- mark the center on the top
- drill for the screw chuck and mount
- turn the bottom
- smooth and finish the bottom
- reverse and turn the top, smooth, apply finish. Done.

481285 481286

I do almost all face turning this way.

JKJ

[Richard Dooling]

John, this is from the Glaser Hitec chuck description, "The Glaser Hitec Screw Chuck showcases a hardened medical grade stainless steel screw. . ." I imagine there is some compromise between hardness and brittleness. In any case I was a little surprised I could turn the Vicmarc screw so easily. John I know you're very busy but I would appreciate it if you would let me know the diameter of the Glaser screw shank when you get a chance.

I have to admit, this has been puzzling. For the life of me I can't fathom why anyone would design a wood screw in a way that doesn't screw into wood. Whatever advantages there may be to their design, the form needs to be subservient to the function.

I've sent Vicmarc an email with photos but I can't be the first person to point this out - so who knows if I'll get a response. I sent my retailer a similar message.

This last image shows that the reground screw is doing a fair job of cutting into the wood.

Thanks again to everyone who has contributed.
Richard

481406

[John K Jordan]

I know the original Jerry Glaser info and the Hitec both say hardened stainless steel thread, but I used a small triangular file and unlike a hardened tool steel tool, I easily scratched the end of the shaft. I didn't try to file further down the shaft, near the other end, or on any threads - perhaps they are harder steel. I wouldn't be surprised if the entire screw was hardened then tempered for strength which reduces the hardness by some, usually controlled, amount, or hardened, tempered, then the just the threads rehardened. A hardened and untempered screw shaft could be brittle which could be a disaster for something that needs to keep the heavy blank from becoming a projectile!

Next time I get to the shop I measure the shafts on both. I measured the thread OD on one the other day and it was about 3/8" which makes since since they sell replacement 3/8" screws. I drill a 1/4" hole and the chucks screw on easily by hand so I'm assuming the central shaft is somewhat less than 1/4". I'll let you know.

I can't imagine they designed it to not screw into the wood. I suspect was what whoever it was that said you got a screw with with the machining unfinished. Either that, or the machinist was "under the weather" that day. I also can't imagine they wouldn't replace it once they see the photo. I'd probably give them a call.

JKJ


John, this is from the Glaser Hitec chuck description, "The Glaser Hitec Screw Chuck showcases a hardened medical grade stainless steel screw. . ." I imagine there is some compromise between hardness and brittleness. In any case I was a little surprised I could turn the Vicmarc screw so easily. John I know you're very busy but I would appreciate it if you would let me know the diameter of the Glaser screw shank when you get a chance.

I have to admit, this has been puzzling. For the life of me I can't fathom why anyone would design a wood screw in a way that doesn't screw into wood. Whatever advantages there may be to their design, the form needs to be subservient to the function.

I've sent Vicmarc an email with photos but I can't be the first person to point this out - so who knows if I'll get a response. I sent my retailer a similar message.

This last image shows that the reground screw is doing a fair job of cutting into the wood.

Thanks again to everyone who has contributed.
Richard

481406

[Richard Dooling]

Thanks John, I am wondering what is the diameter of the part of the screw that is secured in the chuck.
Surprisingly I got a pretty quick response from Vicmarc indicating that they will change their design.

"Hi Richard,

Thank you for your email, I really appreciate it as if no one gives us constructive criticism we can not improve. I believe that drilling larger like you did is a must in that situation however it certainly can be changed to make this better. I think as we use the same tool for these screws and being that the diameter is smaller on this screw, that is why this is flat on top.

I have now changed the drawing to make this part more like our other screws (like your modified one) and this should rectify this for the future, thanks again!

Many thanks"

[Neil Strong]

Thanks John, I am wondering what is the diameter of the part of the screw that is secured in the chuck.
Surprisingly I got a pretty quick response from Vicmarc indicating that they will change their design.

"Hi Richard,

Thank you for your email, I really appreciate it as if no one gives us constructive criticism we can not improve. I believe that drilling larger like you did is a must in that situation however it certainly can be changed to make this better. I think as we use the same tool for these screws and being that the diameter is smaller on this screw, that is why this is flat on top.

I have now changed the drawing to make this part more like our other screws (like your modified one) and this should rectify this for the future, thanks again!

Many thanks"



Richard

That explains a lot.

And, it also highlights the advantage of equipment/tool manufactures who are also woodturners. You would never expect to get a Thompson, D-Way, earlier Glaser, Woodcut, Kelton or Munro tool (to name a few) dispatched that was so obviously unfit for its purpose.

Vicmarc have an established reputation for delivering quality lathes and scroll chucks, which is where they make most of their income. It's a shame they are not doing the hard yards on product development/QA on some of their minor sideline offerings.

They have had a few hiccups in recent times. For example, there were issues with their bowl gouge offerings, which were then dropped. An experienced woodturners on retainer would avoid such problems.

I was also quite critical of their gouge jig design, which is a shame as their new Vicmarc CBN Sharpening Station (https://vicmarc.com/product-page/sanding-and-grinding/vicmarc-cbn-lathe-sharpening-system-181-detail) has a lot going for it otherwise.

[John K Jordan]

The screw appears to be machined from 3/8" stock. (I can't measure the part secured in the chuck without removing it but holding the points of the calipers close 3/8 looks believable, and Hitec says it's 3/8".) The max thread diameter is just under 3/8". The central cylinder of the screw measures at about .24", good clearance for a .25 hole.

JKJ


Thanks John, I am wondering what is the diameter of the part of the screw that is secured in the chuck.
...

[Neil Strong]

This is a picture of the HiTec (cell phone pic, not very good) - you might be able to see the flat bottom and the tapered top on some of the threads on the lower side of the screw in the photo:

481141

JKJ
~

Got around to taking some photos of the screws that came with my Vicmarc and Nova chucks.



481430
Buttress thread
on the VMs

481431
Nova thread

481432
Measurement of OD
on VM screws


The thread on the Nova is quite fine and looks very similar to the thread on the HiTec. I mostly use the Nova screw in both the VM and Nova chucks, preferring the flat shoulders on the Novas that engage with the slides.

And here is my baby MT2 screw chuck for doing small stuff, sitting (for scale) in my 1-1/4" roughing gouge... nothing special about the screw, whatever will fit in it...
481440

[John K Jordan]

...

481431
Nova thread

The thread on the Nova is quite fine and looks very similar to the thread on the HiTec. I mostly use the Nova screw in both the VM and Nova chucks, preferring the flat shoulders on the Novas that engage with the slides.
...

Either you got lucky with the Nova screw or something has been improved. I have a dozen or so, most look like this:

481441

The surface looks cast rather than machined, for example look at the second from the bottom. The screws are flat on the outer diameter, not sharp, not easy to attach the wood. After using some a bit I got the Glaser and never used the Novas again.

JKJ

[Richard Dooling]

~

Got around to taking some photos of the screws that came with my Vicmarc and Nova chucks.


The thread on the Nova is quite fine and looks very similar to the thread on the HiTec. I mostly use the Nova screw in both the VM and Nova chucks, preferring the flat shoulders on the Novas that engage with the slides.

And here is my baby MT2 screw chuck for doing small stuff, sitting (for scale) in my 1-1/4" roughing gouge... nothing special about the screw, whatever will fit in it...



Thanks Neil the thread on the Vicmarc looks nothing like their 3 in 1 screw. Makes you wonder why.

[Richard Dooling]

Either you got lucky with the Nova screw or something has been improved. I have a dozen or so, most look like this:

481441

The surface looks cast rather than machined, for example look at the second from the bottom. The screws are flat on the outer diameter, not sharp, not easy to attach the wood. After using some a bit I got the Glaser and never used the Novas again.

JKJ

There's a level of inconsistency for sure but Neils Nova screw looks more refined than any I've seen.

Thank you for the Glaser Hitec measurements!

The guy at Vicmarc has written me again to say they have made adjustments to their CNC machine. I'm curious what they end up with. It does beg the question though, why did they ever release the current version?

[Edward Weber]

I have a few Nova screws and like Neil, I prefer them for their square shoulders. I don't need to crank down on the chuck just to drive the screw.
Not making excuses at all for them but Nova,(I still refer to them as Teknatool) moved some manufacturing from NZ to PRC a while back.
Now I know the Chinese are perfectly capable of producing any level of quality the parent company requires but the QC seems to be a bit lax these days.
The bottom one has never been used but no two are identical
481461

[Neil Strong]

Either you got lucky with the Nova screw or something has been improved. I have a dozen or so, most look like this:

481441

The surface looks cast rather than machined, for example look at the second from the bottom. The screws are flat on the outer diameter, not sharp, not easy to attach the wood. After using some a bit I got the Glaser and never used the Novas again.

JKJ

Agreed, John. Yours appear to be cast with no machined finish.

Some of mine are quite old, most over 20yrs, so may predate the move to manufacture in PRC, which Edward suggests may explain the change. You get what you pay for with PRC manufacture and Teknatool may have decided that the average user of their chucks would notice the price more than the machined finish.

[Neil Strong]

... the Vicmarc looks nothing like their 3 in 1 screw. Makes you wonder why.

Yes, if it ain't broke, etc., etc.

[Neil Strong]

The guy at Vicmarc has written me again to say they have made adjustments to their CNC machine. I'm curious what they end up with.

I'm also curious to see what what they send you and look forward to hearing your assessment, Richard.

[Neil Strong]

I have a few Nova screws and like Neil, I prefer them for their square shoulders. I don't need to crank down on the chuck just to drive the screw.
Not making excuses at all for them but Nova,(I still refer to them as Teknatool) moved some manufacturing from NZ to PRC a while back.
Now I know the Chinese are perfectly capable of producing any level of quality the parent company requires but the QC seems to be a bit lax these days.


Agree with you there, Edward.

[Edward Weber]

You get what you pay for with PRC manufacture and Teknatool may have decided that the average user of their chucks would notice the price more than the machined finish.
The machining quality/tolerances with Teknatool was never top tier IMO. Then let the QC slip and you get what you get.
I have some Nova chucks and I like them but I'm under no illusions about their quality.
If I had to do it all over again, I would probably buy all VicMarc and not look back.

[John K Jordan]

The machining quality/tolerances with Teknatool was never top tier IMO. Then let the QC slip and you get what you get.
I have some Nova chucks and I like them but I'm under no illusions about their quality.
If I had to do it all over again, I would probably buy all VicMarc and not look back.

Opinions vary. I have 20 Teknatool chucks in four "flavors", some bought used, and I'm extremely happy with their quality. I've measured runout, etc. And yes, I've used Vicmark, Oneway, and other chucks.

After initial satisfaction, I stuck with Nova partly because all the jaws are all interchangeable, except for the 12 screw jaws on the big Nova Titan chuck.

I haven't bought any new in the last three years so if the quality has gone down I don't know about it.

JKJ

[Neil Strong]

the machining quality/tolerances with teknatool was never top tier imo. Then let the qc slip and you get what you get. I have some nova chucks and i like them but i'm under no illusions about their quality.
If i had to do it all over again, i would probably buy all vicmarc and not look back.


opinions vary. I have 20 teknatool chucks in four "flavors", some bought used, and i'm extremely happy with their quality. I've measured runout, etc. And yes, i've used vicmark, oneway, and other chucks.

After initial satisfaction, i stuck with nova partly because all the jaws are all interchangeable, except for the 12 screw jaws on the big nova titan chuck.

I haven't bought any new in the last three years so if the quality has gone down i don't know about it. Jkj

I have a half dozen of each, plus a few strays, and in most 'flavours'. Can't say that one make is better than the other... both have their pros and cons, but none have failed in any way and some have done a lot of work.

None are recent. I went with the VMs for their jaw range, particularly their larger sized jaws, which Nova didn't have and not out of any dissatisfaction with my Nova chucks.

My turning predates the 4-jaw scroll chuck for woodturners, so I know firsthand just how invaluable an innovation they were and appreciate any of them every time I use one on the lathe... I expect far more than most 'more recent' woodturners can imagine!

[Edward Weber]

Opinions vary. I have 20 Teknatool chucks in four "flavors", some bought used, and I'm extremely happy with their quality. I've measured runout, etc. And yes, I've used Vicmark, Oneway, and other chucks.

After initial satisfaction, I stuck with Nova partly because all the jaws are all interchangeable, except for the 12 screw jaws on the big Nova Titan chuck.

I haven't bought any new in the last three years so if the quality has gone down I don't know about it.

JKJ

While I don't know (or want to know:D ) why you have twenty, IMO VicMarc machining and tolerances are better, the backplate and insert are much more refined as well.
i like my Novas, they get the job done and the price is always good. The slop in the jaw slides is more than it should be and the inserts are a joke.
It's always a balancing act. there is no single brand that can tick all the boxes.

[John K Jordan]

While I don't know (or want to know:D ) why you have twenty, ….

Don’t worry, I won’t give my reasons (again). The fact is he whose circumstance doesn’t make many chucks useful certainly doesn’t need them.

I actually have just eighteen Nova chucks in my shop now - two are on long-term loan to a brilliantly creative, promising, but temporarily financially challenged young turning student of mine. It was the existence of Nova inserts that made it easy to use the chucks on a lathe with a different spindle thread, a lathe donated by a generous person. Inserts also make it simple to use a chuck on one of my mini lathes as needed. All is good.

JKJ

[Edward Weber]

It was the existence of Nova inserts that made it easy to use the chucks on a lathe with a different spindle thread, a lathe donated by a generous person. Inserts also make it simple to use a chuck on one of my mini lathes as needed. All is good.

JKJ

I understand the concept of inserts, it's nothing new IMO.
I don't care for the Nova OEM inserts. How they fit, the eased off internal threads, etc.
Here is what I've done
481589481583481586481591481592481579

[Neil Strong]

I don't care for the Nova OEM inserts. How they fit, the eased off internal threads, etc.
Here is what I've done
481589481583481586481591481592481579

Edward

From your photos I can see that you have reduced the length of the thread on the left insert and this has allowed it to seat on the back of the chuck.

Other than tidiness, has that solved any other issues? Perhaps there has already been a thread on that here on the Creek.

I remember about a decade ago there were issues with Nova inserts and runout. All of my Nova chucks predated that, so I didn't follow that closely, but my understanding is that it got sorted out.

[Randy Heinemann]

I understand all the advantages mentioned for screw chucks except one - Why can't you remount a bowl, especially a dried bowl in a scroll chuck? I've done it and the results seem to be fine, especially if you mark the tenon so that you remount with that mark opposite the same numbered jaw (like #1).

With wetter wood turning I can see that maybe it's a little easier to get the blank/bowl remounted with less runout but usually it can be re-rounded fairly easy. I don't turn everyday and I would imagine there are a lot of situations I haven't encountered in about 5 years of turning, but it's hard for me to justify spending the kind of money on a Glaser Screw Chuck when my Nova Woodworm screw, faceplates, and my spurs work well, sometimes with tail end support and with smaller pieces without.

I'm probably missing something here and the Glaser screw chuck seems to be a well-made cool accessory, but I'm just trying to figure out whether it really adds much to my capabilities.

[David Walser]

Randy — A dedicated screw chuck is more efficient and more accurate than a scroll chuck. As you know, you can remove and then remount a blank in a scroll chuck. But, when you do, remounting almost always puts the blank on a new center. The difference may be slight, but it is almost always greater than you’d see with a screw chuck.

In theory (and in practice) you can get the same ‘true-to-center’ remounting by using a woodworm screw mounted in your scroll chuck. A dedicated screw chuck is more efficient in that you don’t have to find the screw and mount it in the chuck. It’s also less expensive than buying another scroll chuck to use just for this purpose.

Are screw chucks essential? No. They can be very nice to have.

[Edward Weber]

Edward

From your photos I can see that you have reduced the length of the thread on the left insert and this has allowed it to seat on the back of the chuck.

Other than tidiness, has that solved any other issues? Perhaps there has already been a thread on that here on the Creek.

I remember about a decade ago there were issues with Nova inserts and runout. All of my Nova chucks predated that, so I didn't follow that closely, but my understanding is that it got sorted out.

Basically all I did is to make it like just about every other major brand out there, not a big deal.
I prefer to have the mating surface to be at the back of the chuck not inboard like the OEM design. I also prefer to have the threads totally enclosed. This setup provides a more secure and accurate mechanical connection IMHO.
I can't say if it solved any problems other than the annoying internal thread they have. After I changed the first one shortly (a few days) after purchase, all the others were changed before use.

There was a dust up a while back with people buying generic inserts and not understanding why their chuck did not run true. It is a simple fix as I showed in the photos but too many jumped to conclusions and would not buy generic inserts even if they fit and would only buy OEM inserts, even if they were inferior IMO.

[Neil Strong]

Basically all I did is to make it like just about every other major brand out there, not a big deal.
I prefer to have the mating surface to be at the back of the chuck not inboard like the OEM design. I also prefer to have the threads totally enclosed. This setup provides a more secure and accurate mechanical connection IMHO.

I can't say if it solved any problems other than the annoying internal thread they have. After I changed the first one shortly (a few days) after purchase, all the others were changed before use.



Fair enough!

If it annoys you every time you look at it, better to just fix it and have the satisfaction of having that done.

In my case I fettle the chucks before using them, especially the VMs (the Novas are much better), to remove the sharp edges waiting to lacerate me at 2k rpm. It takes a while to do but once done I don't have to think anymore about those spinning gouges next to my knuckles!

[Neil Strong]

I understand all the advantages mentioned for screw chucks except one - Why can't you remount a bowl, especially a dried bowl in a scroll chuck?

For what I do I only use a screw to mount small to medium sized pieces to turn the bottoms (face rings for larger pieces) then use chuck jaws to hold the piece in a foot recess to finish the insides. On the occasional more complicated piece I might re-chuck in the jaws a number of times.

I have no need to remount on the screw, but others may have a different process for what they are making.

[Randy Heinemann]

Randy — A dedicated screw chuck is more efficient and more accurate than a scroll chuck. As you know, you can remove and then remount a blank in a scroll chuck. But, when you do, remounting almost always puts the blank on a new center. The difference may be slight, but it is almost always greater than you’d see with a screw chuck.

In theory (and in practice) you can get the same ‘true-to-center’ remounting by using a woodworm screw mounted in your scroll chuck. A dedicated screw chuck is more efficient in that you don’t have to find the screw and mount it in the chuck. It’s also less expensive than buying another scroll chuck to use just for this purpose.

Are screw chucks essential? No. They can be very nice to have.

So, I guess after the screw chuck idea bounced around in my head all this time and I put one on my Christmas list for this year, I recently came up with another question. What is the difference between a screw chuck and owning multiple wood screws for your chucks (Nova chucks for example) and remounting the wood screw in the chuck if needed. The screw would still be in the same center. I would guess the first answer might be that a screw chuck is stronger because the screw is threaded in the chuck and the wood screw is held by the jaws. In medium sized pieces, especially pieces which are being remounted to finish turn, I can't imagine the stress on the wood screw in the chuck is that great though. I like the idea of a screw chuck but it would definitely be a more efficient use of my money to buy several woodscrews for my existing chucks.

[Neil Strong]

What is the difference between a screw chuck and owning multiple wood screws for your chucks (Nova chucks for example) and remounting the wood screw in the chuck if needed.

Very little difference, IME.

I have at least half a dozen screws that I can leave in individual pieces if I need to.

Likewise, I have half a dozen faceplate rings (for 4" or 5" chucks) that I can use that way.

The faceplates rings are easier and quicker to remount precisely than the screws.

The screws can mount smaller pieces than the rings.

Depending on where the faceplate ring screw holes are positioned that can be an issue with some pieces, like hollow forms.

Some of my screws and faceplate rings can be fixed on a number of pieces that have been put aside for many months. That would be an extra cost if all of them were mounted on dedicated screw chucks.

I have nothing against the humble all in one screw chuck. I used them for many years and still have a few of the original ones kicking around somewhere in a bottom drawer, but they don't get to come out of their retirement home very often nowadays...


487713

[Don Stephan]

My Vicmarc chucks and I think my Nova chuck came with wood screws.

[Randy Heinemann]

While I can understand that maybe a very large blank might benefit from mounting with a screw chuck rather than wood screw held by a chuck, I would think that mounting with a faceplate would be a better more secure option; or maybe a faceplate ring if remounting is a necessity. However, I've mounted up to 10" diameter blanks with the Nova woodscrew held by my Nova chuck jaws with no problems. I have only turned larger bowls a couple of times and just used a faceplate.

[Neil Strong]

My Vicmarc chucks and I think my Nova chuck came with wood screws.

You and your Vicmarcs are right, i.e., if you bought the full Nova chuck and default jaws and not a 'companion' chuck that comes without the standard 2"/50mm jaws, etc.

[Neil Strong]

While I can understand that maybe a very large blank might benefit from mounting with a screw chuck rather than wood screw held by a chuck.

I don't think the screw chuck is any better at holding a blank than a wood screw held by the standard chuck.

There may be differences in the holding capacity of different screws (as discussed here on the forum), but that is a separate matter.

Good on you Randy for reminding us that the old faceplate chuck is more than adequate for the task. Perhaps not just quite as quick as 'dynamically' mounting the blank on a revolving screw, but quick enough nowadays with the torque screw functions on battery drills and self threading hex headed screws.

[Neil Strong]

I don't think the screw chuck is any better at holding a blank than a wood screw held by the standard chuck.



Just saw this video of coring blanks held with just a screw chuck. Keep watching through the 6:20 mark to see how big the blank are before he begins coring them...

https://youtu.be/EHhSaFkudSQ?t=308

The screw on that chuck is bit larger than the standard ones, but had no problem holding that blank.

[Mick Fagan]

Just saw this video of coring blanks held with just a screw chuck. Keep watching through the 6:20 mark to see how big the blank are before he begins coring them...

https://youtu.be/EHhSaFkudSQ?t=308

The screw on that chuck is bit larger than the standard ones, but had no problem holding that blank.

Neil, that is a ripper of a coring machine; great find.

4kW of power, nice. I also noted the extremely solid coring arms in a triangular shape for rigidity, I doubt there would be much flexing of the coring arms as they penetrate; even the 48cm coring shouldn't be a coring arm twisting problem as it would be so rigid as to effectively eliminate flexing.

Looks like the screw is around the 20mm diameter mark, which for the size of the blanks he's doing is easy going. I've used Vicmark faceplate rings for larger blanks of around 65cm, but find that the Vicmark standard screw supplied with their chucks has worked perfectly well with 50cm blanks; getting them onto the lathe is another story. :D




488341

[Neil Strong]

I've used Vicmark faceplate rings for larger blanks of around 65cm, but find that the Vicmark standard screw supplied with their chucks has worked perfectly well with 50cm blanks; getting them onto the lathe is another story. :D


488341

Yeah, the large blanks are getting heavier every year!

I really struggle with them nowadays... this piece of blackwood was just under the 18" and I only just managed to lift and secure it on the lathe by myself.



488403

But it is coming up a treat...

488404