SawStop PCS 1.75HP Questions

[Doug Walls]

I finally bit the bullet & ordered a SawStop PCS 1.75HP with the 36" T-Glide-Fence the other day from my local Woodcraft store just before the May 3rd. price increase.

I really wanted to get the 3HP. model, but I only have one 30-amp 240V circuit available & my dust collector is currently run on that.

Eventually I plan to upgrade the electrical system in the garage! However, that's going to be a little bit down-the-road since I should also upgrade my main electrical service entrance line to my house.

My first question is for anyone that owns a PCS 1.75HP!
How well do you like it, and have you had any problems cutting thicker hardwood stock?

My second question is for anyone that may have upgraded the PCS 175 to 240V!
Did upgrading it to 240V make any difference in performance?
I realize it won't add any more power, but I'm thinking it may start-up quicker & possibly not bog-down as often under a heavy load.

Thanks
Doug

[ChrisA Edwards]

I did the upgrade from the PCS 1.75HP (110v) to the 3HP 220V upgrade. Cost around $600 a couple of years ago. Took about an hour to switch motors and put in the new control box.

Saw doesn't struggle anymore cutting thicker stuff.

The 220V version pulls about 5 amps when running and doesn't seem to pull a big spike on start up.

I run my Hammer A3-31 JP and the Sawstop, off the same 20A circuit, at the same time. I rip on the Sawstop, joint, the sawn edge on the JP and repeat as necessary.

The JP pulls about 53A on startup, momentarily, and then draws about 7-8A in normal running. So between the two running, I'm well below the 20A circuit rating.

The electrician who installed the 220v circuit took the readings on the two machines at startup and while running.

[Nick Crivello]

Check this video out:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G6JIbYFj3cY

While I don't have one, running deliberate blade choices will likely help a bit. Thin kerf, rip vs cross cut, sharpness, etc. will all play into performance.

[Doug Walls]

I did the upgrade from the PCS 1.75HP (110v) to the 3HP 220V upgrade. Cost around $600 a couple of years ago. Took about an hour to switch motors and put in the new control box.
Did you keep the original gas/lift assist cylinder in the saw?
I talked to a tech at SS & he also recommended to upgrade to the heaver duty lift/assist cylinder!

I was figuring on possibly doing the 3HP/motor conversion after getting my electrical upgraded in about a year or so!

For now I was just thinking about upgrading the 1.75HP. motor to 240V.


I run my Hammer A3-31 JP and the Sawstop, off the same 20A circuit, at the same time.
Wow I wouldn't thought that was possible!

Based on that, I may be able to get away with the 30Amp circuit for both?
I have a friend that's a retired electrician, I'll check with him & see if I could possibly run the 3HP model & dust collector on my current line.

My saw is currently on "backorder" with Woodcraft with an expected shipping date of June 3rd.
Being it hasn't shipped yet, I may be able to upgrade the order?

Doug

[Jim Becker]

For now I was just thinking about upgrading the 1.75HP. motor to 240V.

That conversion really doesn't change the motor power, etc., so unless it's "more convenient" to run it on 240v, I'd keep it on 120v 20a and consider the motor upgrade in the future.

[Doug Walls]

That conversion really doesn't change the motor power, etc.
Yeah as I mentioned I knew that!

I had an older Craftsman RAS that I converted over to 240V & It seemed to run a little smoother on the 240V.
The RAS also seemed to get up to full speed quite a bit faster with a heavy dado stack on it while running on 240V.

Doug

[Doug Walls]

Check this video out:
Thanks, I don't remember seeing that one!
I've seen quite a few of the 3HP videos, But not too many on the 1.75HP model.


running deliberate blade choices will likely help a bit. Thin kerf, rip vs cross cut, sharpness, etc. will all play into performance.
Yeah I agree with you on matching the blade to the job, And also keeping the blades sharp.

Doug

[Frank Pratt]

Most who have a 1.75 HP will tell you it's plenty. I've had a 1.75 HP (Jet) and a 3 HP. You can get by with the smaller motor, but the bigger one is that much better. If you are considering upgrading, just do it now. Otherwise you're just throwing money away.

[ChrisA Edwards]

The 3HP upgrade kit included the gas strut, motor and control box.

[Jim Becker]

I had an older Craftsman RAS that I converted over to 240V & It seemed to run a little smoother on the 240V.


There were a few older machines with motors that may have had additional windings when converted to 240v instead of 120v and supposedly developed a little more horsepower.

[Greg Parrish]

Most who have a 1.75 HP will tell you it's plenty. I've had a 1.75 HP (Jet) and a 3 HP. You can get by with the smaller motor, but the bigger one is that much better. If you are considering upgrading, just do it now. Otherwise you're just throwing money away.

technically the opposite. For roughly the same cost as the difference you are getting a free 1.75hp motor at the cost of a little install time. The upgrade cost was the same as the initial price difference last I looked.

[Jim Dwight]

I have the PCS with the 36 inch fence and 1.75 hp motor. I think I bought it in 2019, might have been 2018. I cut three inch thick hardwood on it any time I need to do that. But I do not try it with a combination blade. I used full kerf blades on it at first, I bought a ripping/combination set from Infinity when I bought the saw. I had trouble with the rip blade making a bunk bed for my grandkids. The legs are glued up 2x4s and the thermal overload kept tripping even though I was using the new infinity ripping blade. I worked my way through multiple things causing this. First I put on a full kerf Freud 24 tooth ripping blade that had been used significantly but it was clean. I had to go a little slow but it made the cuts. Then I found a thin kerf ripping blade, also Freud, and it made the cuts at a normal feed rate. Later I figured out the kerf was closing on the blade on these legs and that was part of the reason the saw was struggling.

So be careful on rip cuts that close up on the blade and you will probably be OK with a reasonable blade. But I normally use thin kerf blades now. With them I have had no issues. I actually never had an issue with hardwood 3+ inches thick. I think it was the fact that it was straighter. I got a 2mm thick riving knife from SawStop, I think it was only about $20, and use that with the thin kerf blades. I make most cuts with a 50 tooth or 40 tooth Freud thin kerf combination blade but I put on a thin kerf ripping blade for 2+ inch thick cuts (usually).

I have been making sawdust for over 50 years and have never had a table saw that couldn't run on 120V. It does make me be more careful about blades but they have all done the work. You can probably work with dirty blades better and with full kerf blades more easily with 3hp or more but you don't have to use dirty full kerf blades.

Get yourself come good thin kerf blades and the 2mm splitter and have fun. Use it awhile and I bet you forget about the 3hp upgrade. But, if not, go for it. I'm pretty sure you will enjoy this saw. Controls work smoothly, the saw cuts accurately and power is adequate. The safety system is a little bit of a pain sometimes but it's good to have.

[Frank Pratt]

technically the opposite. For roughly the same cost as the difference you are getting a free 1.75hp motor at the cost of a little install time. The upgrade cost was the same as the initial price difference last I looked.

Right you are! That surprised me. It also surprised me how much more expensive they are now than when I bought.

[Scott Bernstein]

I purchased the same model around 2016, and used it for two years. Around 2018 I purchased a band saw that required 220V so I finally brought in an electrician to install some 220V outlets in the garage. Since then I added a third myself, for my dust collector. I run my A3-41 jointer-planer and my bandsaw off the same outlet - although not simultaneously. Anyways, after the 220V outlets went in I purchased the 3hp upgrade kit from SawStop. That motor is heavy! I built a little box, to prop the motor up at the right level to help with the installation. Made things much easier. While the 1.75hp is adequate, especially with a thin kerf blade, it did struggle and even stall a couple times on really thick hardwood...12/4 hickory for example. But for most things it was just fine. The 3hp motor is really a significant upgrade, and you can definitely feel it when using the saw. I find there is less burning and it never struggles. In fact, if I had to do it over again, I'd buy the 5hp Industrial saw.

Scott B

[Doug Walls]

I have the PCS with the 36 inch fence and 1.75 hp motor. I think I bought it in 2019, might have been 2018. I cut three inch thick hardwood on it any time I need to do that. But I do not try it with a combination blade. I used full kerf blades on it at first,

I make most cuts with a 50 tooth or 40 tooth Freud thin kerf combination blade but I put on a thin kerf ripping blade for 2+ inch thick cuts (usually).


I purchased the same model around 2016, and used it for two years.
While the 1.75hp is adequate, especially with a thin kerf blade, it did struggle and even stall a couple times on really thick hardwood...12/4 hickory for example. But for most things it was just fine.

Thanks for the information!

With the majority of my projects I normally use plywood or 4/4 stock, so I know I wouldn't have any problems there.

I'm sure with the new saw I'll come up with new bigger projects that may require thicker stock, but I doubt I would need to rip anything thicker than 8/4 stock.

Doug

[Doug Walls]

I figured out the kerf was closing on the blade on these legs and that was part of the reason the saw was struggling.

So be careful on rip cuts that close up on the blade and you will probably be OK with a reasonable blade.


Yeah unfortunately I'm well aware of boards closing up on rip cuts! :eek:
Years ago I had a pretty scarry kick-back on an old contractor style table saw! It was with a 4-1/2 foot piece of green rough cut red oak that twisted as I cut it, luckily I wasn't hit by the piece since it had enough force to knock over a cart about 6 feet away.

That's another reason I wanted a newer style table saw with a true riving knife/splitter assembly that goes up & down with the blade.

Doug

[Jim Dwight]

Doug,

If you notice the kerf closing, it helps to shut off the saw and put a shim into the kerf before resuming the cut. I've done this successfully several times but I normally don't want to take the time. The kerf will show marks of the struggle but that is going to happen regardless.

Jim

[Mike Hollingsworth]

Thanks for the information!

With the majority of my projects I normally use plywood or 4/4 stock, so I know I wouldn't have any problems there.

I'm sure with the new saw I'll come up with new bigger projects that may require thicker stock, but I doubt I would need to rip anything thicker than 8/4 stock.

Doug

except when you want to cut that 8/4 at 45 degrees. It then becomes a 3” cut.

[Jason Lester]

I have that same saw. The only real issue I had was when I was ripping a bunch of 10/4 ash slabs for my bench. I actually stopped the blade a few times. No problems with it otherwise.

[Terry Wawro]

I've had the PCS 1.75HP / 120v for about five years now. With the right blade, I've almost never had a problem with it bogging down. It did struggle once or twice on some hard thick stock. For my uses, 98% of the time it, it handles everything with ease. I couldn't justify the additional cost of 3HP upgrade plus the cost to installing a 220v circuit for the once or twice a year I needed the extra horsepower.

[Doug Walls]

I have that same saw. The only real issue I had was when I was ripping a bunch of 10/4 ash slabs for my bench.

Thanks for the information!
"10/4 ash slabs" That sounds like a peaty good size piece to cut, I could imagine having some issues with something like that.

Doug

[Doug Walls]

I've had the PCS 1.75HP / 120v for about five years now. With the right blade, I've almost never had a problem with it bogging down.

It did struggle once or twice on some hard thick stock. For my uses, 98% of the time it, it handles everything with ease.

Thanks for the reply!

Doug

[Todd Mason-Darnell]

I have had the exact same set up as you since 2016. I am hobbyist who struggles to find time in the shop. That being said, I have only had 1 issue with it bogging down and that was with some 3/4 big box plywood that started to pinch the blade.

I run full kerf blades in mine. As other have mentioned, a premium blade and using a dedicate rip blade for rip cuts makes a big difference.

[Doug Walls]

I have had the exact same set up as you since 2016.
I have only had 1 issue with it bogging down and that was with some 3/4 big box plywood that started to pinch the blade.

Thanks for the reply!


I run full kerf blades in mine. As other have mentioned, a premium blade and using a dedicate rip blade for rip cuts makes a big difference.

Agreed good quality & sharp blades make a big difference.


I am hobbyist who struggles to find time in the shop.

With all the Covid related issues last year, I took the option of retiring early at 62.
I'm a hobbyist also, but with 15-years of experience working in machine shops.

Now I have the time to get things done in the garage. :cool: However now I have the problem of getting everything organized & figuring out how to combine woodworking & metalworking equipment into one 2-car garage. :confused:

My latest project is rebuilding a 13" Southbend Lathe & the parts are currently scattered throughout the garage.

478886478884478885

With the weather here in Southeast MI. finally warming up, I can finish up some painting & start reassembling everything.
Hopefully if I can get everything to fit the way I'm planning I will have one side of the garage set-up for metalworking & the other side for woodworking.

Doug

[Doug Walls]

I'd keep it on 120v 20a and consider the motor upgrade in the future.
Looks like that's what I'll do seeing that I just picked-up my SawStop PCS-175 early. :D

My local Woodcraft store had an order cancelation & I was able to get my saw about three weeks early. :cool:

Being it wasn't expected to ship until June 3rd. I had thought about possibly changing my order.

Doug

[Jim Becker]

Congrats! I suspect that you'll find that the performance is more than up to the task for most things so enjoy!

[Curt Harms]

Did you keep the original gas/lift assist cylinder in the saw?
I talked to a tech at SS & he also recommended to upgrade to the heaver duty lift/assist cylinder!

I was figuring on possibly doing the 3HP/motor conversion after getting my electrical upgraded in about a year or so!

For now I was just thinking about upgrading the 1.75HP. motor to 240V.


Wow I wouldn't thought that was possible!

Based on that, I may be able to get away with the 30Amp circuit for both?
I have a friend that's a retired electrician, I'll check with him & see if I could possibly run the 3HP model & dust collector on my current line.

My saw is currently on "backorder" with Woodcraft with an expected shipping date of June 3rd.
Being it hasn't shipped yet, I may be able to upgrade the order?

Doug

I have a 3 hp G1023 table saw and Jet JJP-12 3 hp J/P along with a "2 hp" dust collector on a 30 amp 240 volt circuit. I've never tried all 3 at the same time, I'm a one man operation. Either Saw + dust collector or JP + dust collector. I've never taken a heavy cut with either the table saw or JP but no electrical overloads shown. Perhaps if I were able to push both start switches at precisely the same time and the circuit breaker were "fast blow" I might see an issue, don't know. I start the dust collector and let it come up to speed then start one of the other machines. Been fine for 20+ years.

[Jim Dwight]

With a 120V motor the only real limitation, if you want to call it that, is that the blade must be appropriate, clean and fairly sharp when you want to make maximum depth cuts. I like a Woodsmith bed plan that I and my two married kids sleep in each night. It has 3x3 legs of hardwood. My son and daughter-in-law use one made before I bought the sawstop out of oak. Legs were ripped on my 120V saw I used at that time, I think it was a Ryobi BT3100. My daughter and son-in-law sleep on one in cherry, I am sure that one was ripped on the Ryobi. My bed is the most recent build and it's legs were ripped to size on my PCS 1.75. It is cherry. The saw did not struggle, cherry buns easily and I didn't want to deal with that but it made nice clean cuts easily.

I think it is not really appropriate to think the motor is undersized. It just does not have power enough to deal with dirty and/or dull blades that are inappropriate for the task at hand. I do not back away from making full depth cuts, I just check the blade. If it needs cleaned or changed out I do that.

The beds are just an example. I've made lots of furniture for me and my kids and my only table saws have been 120V saws.

[Darrell Bade]

I had one of those Ryobi BT3100 saws for years, sold it when I bought a sawstop. Built a lot with it and actually miss a few of the features it had. It was a good cutting saw.

[Jim Dwight]

I agree. It was far better than it needed to be at it's price point. I got rid of mine when I wore out the aluminum threads in the casting that supported the arbor height adjustment. That was a known issue and I had a helicoil kit ready to go but I was getting ready to retire and decided to splurge and get a SawStop. One thing I miss is the aluminum extrusion for a fence. Seems like it would be an easy upgrade for SawStop to copy. Might cut down on the boat anchor weight of the current fence as well as be straighter and more square. Plus much easier to attach an auxiliary fence to.