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View Full Version : A few things I've noticed about sawing accurately



Luke Dupont
04-26-2022, 10:00 AM
I just noticed a few things that help me saw accurately:


1. Saw next to a line, rather than trying to split it. Often times I do strike a line that I intend to split, and try splitting it (when it's not necessary to trim down to a line or saw on the waste side), but I find I get better results when I saw next to it, or saw between two lines.
I did a number of crosscuts both ways, and I can achieve almost perfectly square crosscuts beside a line or between two lines, but always find myself off when trying to split a (pencil) line.

2. I find that I can actually cut more accurately using saws without a back. ie, a Ryouba versus a Douzuki, or a Bow-saw with the blade turned 45 degrees versus a Tenon Saw. The reason is that my eye can see the exact angle of the blade / either side of it, whereas the thickness of the back on a backsaw obscures my vision such that it's difficult to see the precise angle that the blade is at. I'm sure this isn't so important for some people, but I find that being able to sight down the thickness of the blade to see the angle of it really helps me.

And one common one that doesn't:

- The tip about looking at the reflection in the saw plate to see if you're straight or not. For whatever reason, when I do this, it just distracts me from actually following the line and keeping the handle traveling perfectly straight and at a 90 degree angle to the work, and so I find that my cuts are always less accurate when I attempt to employ this method. A lot of people swear by it though, so I'm not knocking it. I just find I get better results when I focus on the line that I'm cutting beside, and my body mechanics.

All in all, I'm happy to say that my sawing has improved significantly over the years. A shooting board is still required for perfect precision, but I can come really close, especially if I take my time. And I can usually saw tenon cheeks right up to the line without needing to trim them. Sawing straight and square was one of those skills that alluded me for the longest time, but with enough practice, you eventually get pretty good at it.

Anyway, not much to this thread, so I'll make it a little more general and ask about everyone else's experience. What has helped you to become better with the saw? What works for you, and what doesn't?

Tom M King
04-26-2022, 11:02 AM
Just a comment on your first point of sawing next to the line. I either leave the line, or take the line. I don't think I've ever tried to split it. For precise cuts, I mark with a sharp no. 4 pencil. I never got on good with marking knives.

Luke Dupont
04-26-2022, 11:30 AM
Just a comment on your first point of sawing next to the line. I either leave the line, or take the line. I don't think I've ever tried to split it. For precise cuts, I mark with a sharp no. 4 pencil. I never got on good with marking knives.

I think that's a good way of doing it. Come to think of it, I don't know if anyone recommends or teaches "splitting the line" or if it's just a bad habit I picked up from my very early days of woodworking. The more I think about it, the more I see no reason to ever do so.

Marking knives are excellent when you want to go in with a chisel and pare or chop to a line. And they can help reduce raggedness when crosscutting. I really love how they allow me to register a tool into the mark and achieve absolutely perfect accuracy.

But, lately I'm coming to like just using a sharp pencil for most simple cross cuts, as you do. I used to use the marking knife perhaps too much -- sometimes a pencil really is all that is necessary, is easier to see, and can even be the better choice if you don't want your saw/tool to track in the line, as when cutting dovetails for instance!

Tom Trees
04-26-2022, 5:36 PM
If you don't have a long reach angle poise lamp with 7.5 or 8" shade, you're wasting your time.
Thinking one has sufficient lighting just because the place maybe bright, like on some utubers channels doesn't count for lots of reasons.

These can be adjusted with two fingers which takes about a second either side of the cut.
Fitted with a nice bulb makes for nice warm non glairy lighting, exactly where you want, so not blinding, meaning one can have enhanced observational skills.
EDIT: I'll clarify that, I meant observational ability, not skills...

Enhanced observation whilst used skilfully!


No excuse, you need one of these.
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https://i.postimg.cc/MGwG5q2d/SAM-5570.jpg

steven c newman
04-26-2022, 5:52 PM
Will find out after Supper...
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Line drawn in the Ash..
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T-8 LED lights...and the saw?
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Disston D-100 ( the 100 is inside of the "D")


So, will see how this goes...

James Pallas
04-26-2022, 6:27 PM
Things I learned from mentor. Make certain that your saw is good and is appropriate for the work. Grip the same saw the same way. Get in the most comfortable position possible. Start straight. Don’t push the saw let it do the work. You can only make slight corrections. If you twist enough to twist the plate you are better off backing off and pushing the saw over to straighten out. I can still hear him say from the next room “That saw sounds like a flag in a (insert expletive here) hurricane straighten out”. And yes I do look at the reflection in the plate for the first few strokes just to get square. If you’re square across and the plate is plumb your work is done except for the being the motor.
Jim

steven c newman
04-26-2022, 8:36 PM
Not too hateful..
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Needed 4 blanks cut from 2 boards....
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This IS the angle I was using....index finger was alongside the handle, pointing the way....nice, even full length strokes....Yes, I even checked the reflections now and then....
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Made a nice pile of saw dust, too.....

Blanks for a table top...
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Will run a jointer...plane around tomorrow....right now it is 7/8" x 21" x 24".....