Best mobile base for 1950’s unisaw?

[Don Garland]

Any suggestions will be appreciated. Don’t need to go more than a few feet to get better rip path capacity

[Rick Potter]

I assume you mean mobile BASE?

Grizzly makes a really nice HD base. I have one under a sander and it is great.

I have a Delta base (three wheel type) under an old unisaw, and don't like the way it drops the saw hard when you lower the third wheel. Other than that, it is ok, but I like four wheel ones better.

[Don Garland]

Yes, I meant base. Dang autocorrect. Thanks got the info

[Don Garland]

Thanks. Went to grizzly site and they were on sale.

[Tom M King]

I have an HTC, but I wish I'd build a better one, with larger casters. I built a thing on the end to hold the overarm guard. Since this picture was taken years ago, I changed the blue tape over the tilt slot to magnetic sheets that can be easily moved.

[John Kananis]

I have the HTC on my uni. It's a good base - my only gripe is that the saw doesn't sit level when in place.

[Patrick Varley]

Thanks. Went to grizzly site and they were on sale.

I have the Grizzly Bear Crawl and it has worked well. I prefer the "all swivel" version which is a bit more expensive.

[Warren Lake]

not sure ive ever seen a mobile base I like. Some that are passable and some that are just crap. Tom could not work on that set up. I need to stand where I want when I want and that would be in the way of me standing in front of a cabinet saw, cut dependent.

Ive had two cabinet saws over 40 years and know them well. When I got the small slider realized how much was better but one day forgot the dust collector pipe was not hooked up. I saw stuff on the floor six feet away from the back of the saw. What struck me was the level of build care in the saw was so good to deliver sawdust to the back of the saw that even with no dust collector it was shooting out the back of the saw that far away.

Past i had done some mcgiver work in one of the cabinet saws to get a bit of dust collection but seeing the SCM and that it was shooting the dust out the back with no dust collection left an impression. Not to mention all the other qualities it had to make it better.

my first shop machines had to move all over and I just dragged them. It was lousey but it was only time put in to getting a better shop.

[Tom Trees]

How about something like this?
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Lnooql_zWH4

Could be improved without using angle iron on one end (left side) and use some flat stock instead, as it would be balanced slightly better,
i.e The closer to the centre of machine that the wheels are, the more the corner will dip, or if too far will tip the whole lot,
and also as an aside, the more pressure on that wheel, should it be a cheapie set like what I used
Not only that, but the more effort to change direction without a fight, and the tendency for it to inconveniently change direction whilst tucking away in a tight space.
You might just about be able to make out the issue of the dip, no hint of directional changes anymore thankfully.

Still better than it was before, but as I said flat bar would enable one to scoot the axle closer to the left, as it needs a tiny bit of encouragement for it not to dip,
so one is best to be at the left size of the machine when moving, tolerable enough now not to need have another go, besides a bit of ballast like a decent over head guard
outfeed setup, or router table setup would likely sort it, or reduce it to barely be noticeable.
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https://postimg.cc/G46x3Sn1
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https://i.postimg.cc/vmXR8rKx/SAM-4022.jpg

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[Karl Loeblein]

Any suggestions will be appreciated. Don’t need to go more than a few feet to get better rip path capacity

Do you have the 12” or the big 12/14” Unisaw? It would take a pretty hefty base to move the bigger one.

[Tom Trees]

My saw has no issue lifting probably close to 300kg 210 plus timber stacked on top, seems no difference in effort.
If one was worried they could find some casters with none to little swing, that made some issues for me before with the concealed wheel being too close to center (soft floor)
but not now.
Sorry I can't prove that, for both the floor, and also my designed to fail 5 quid casters.
Last base I made a spring latch rather than a gravity one, slightly better as sawdust is a bit annoying compared.
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https://i.postimg.cc/L8RdTFYy/SAM-4109.jpg

If lifting 400kgs and depending on how much off the ground one wants the machine, say one is very tall and has a terrible floor
then a pin might also be nice, as these can suddenly drop should one go over a bump,
Could do that someday, not really necessary unless I really try to ramp it off something.

Tom