First Pieces and a question

[John Kananis]

Thank you to everyone for helping me decide on the Laguna 18/36 - really, really loving it. Here are the first few things I've turned (Honey dipper, whistle, two bowls and a lidded box)...notice I blew out the bottom of the one bowl.

My question is this: What is the best way to remove a recess or tenon from the bottom of a bowl? Not really looking to get a vacuum chuck as I just spent north of 10k on the current setup. If this really is the best way, please say so but then what's a second best alternative in that case?

Thank you again, everyone.

[Dwayne Watt]

There is no best way, just many ways. For tenon removal, you can reverse the bowl or platter and create a jam chuck against your chuck jaws. Place a piece of mouse pad or rubber sheet between the bowl/chuck and hold in place with your live center. This is easiest when you leave the indent from the first turning of the tenon or recess. Then, simply turn the tenon down to a nubbin, removed the piece, and sand the nubbin smooth.
Or, simply sand the tenon off using a belt or disc sander.
Or, make/buy a Longworth chuck to hold the bowl or plate to turn off the tenon or refine the mortise recess.
Or, buy Cole jaws for your chuck.
Or, simply keep the mortise recess.
Vacuum chuck is nice but not necessary (mostly because I don't have one...). I am sure there are even more variations of technique but these will work.

[Paul Williams]

Good advice from Dwayne. I have a homebuilt vacuum chuck and a Longworth chuck. I also have several small pieces of wood with non-slip padding on the face which is either flat or convex. So, 90% of the time I just chuck up a piece of wood with padding that fits inside the bowl and jam it into the wood with the tail stock. Always leave a small indent from your live center to help center when you turn it around for tenon or recess removal.

[Reed Gray]

I use a recess pretty much all the time. It is my finished bottom. Easy to get a 220 sanding surface on the inside, especially if you have an angle drill. It is a protected surface so your signature will be there pretty much forever. Do sign and date your pieces. A tenon can be incorporated into the design. Richard Raffen does that on some of his smaller pieces. If you have a tenon for the base, a 'friction drive' on the headstock end works easy enough, some thing rounded, and hopefully you remembered to have a center point on the tenon before you reversed your bowl. Friction drive is some thing rounded enough to fit into the inside of the bowl, and some padding over it to keep it from marking up the inside of the bowl. Turn at slower speeds, and nibble the tenon off gently, all but for the last tiny bit which you cut off with a saw. If you break it off, you can leave a divot that is difficult to sand out...

robo hippy

[John Kananis]

Wonderful information, thank you all. I'm going to build one of those longworth chucks and try out the friction drive as well. What type of speed should I be using for these methods? Also, how do you folks sign your work? Brand? Sharpie? Pencil?

[Barry McFadden]

I always use a tenon on the bottom of my bowls and them mount the bowl on these jumbo jaws to turn it off.. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/chucks/20242-oneway-jumbo-jaw-sets

[John Kananis]

Barry, how much of a pita is it to change jaws? Or do you use a dedicated chuck?

[John Kananis]

One other thing, when I do pull the trigger on a vacuum chuck, am I correct that all I need is the laguna vacuum inverter and an actual chuck? Or are there other components?

[Edward Weber]

FWIW, Cole jaws or Jumbo jaws can hold a much wider variety of shapes than a longworth chuck.
IMO, they are the better option

[John Kananis]

Hi Edward, how exactly? The concept seems similar... is it due to the fewer contact points?

[Barry McFadden]

Barry, how much of a pita is it to change jaws? Or do you use a dedicated chuck?

It only takes a couple of minutes to change the jaws over (8 screws)... then its just a matter of putting the rubber stops in the right holes depending on the size of the bowl ... if I had another chuck it would only save the time it takes to put the 8 screws in to fasten the jaws on to the chuck... you would still have to set the stops for each different bowl.

[Robert Henrickson]

I always use a tenon on the bottom of my bowls and them mount the bowl on these jumbo jaws to turn it off.. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/tools/power-tool-accessories/chucks/20242-oneway-jumbo-jaw-sets

Note that these are Oneway jaws and, as far as I know, would work only on either the Oneway Talon or Stronghold chuck. Similar jaws are available for other brands. You would not be able to use this type of jaw for a natural edge bowl.

That said, I have had a set of such jaws for years. They came as part of a set -- I have never used them. I have used what has been called a 'friction drive' in this thread, for hundreds of bowls. I also have a vacuum chuck -- bought because it "seemed like a good idea" -- also never used. Simple is easy (and less expensive). It takes me about 30 seconds to mount a bowl, plate, or whatever, on a friction drive. I have a number of chucks -- just have never seen the usefulness of jumbo or cole jaws.

Everyone finds what works for them.

[Grant Wilkinson]

A donut chuck is very inexpensive to make. It is arguably safer than a longworth since it's pretty much impossible for the bowl to spin/fall out.

[John Kananis]

I've learned a lot in this thread - thanks to all that helped. I'm really enjoying this wonderful addition to my shop.