Setting jointer knives on grizzly G0586

[Brian Runau]

I removed the spring years ago and just use the hex adjustment in the bottom where the blade rests. Has worked fine for years. Last couple of times after I set the height with the jig, as I tighten the nuts to lock in the assembly, the blade height raises. I always removed all the parts, clean out everything well and clean off the black bar with the adjusting nuts on it before reassembly. Somehow during installation of the new blades, even with some downward pressure on the jig, tightening the nuts moves the blade height up. I can get them adjusted correctly, but seems to take much longer than it did in the past.

Appreciate any help.

Brian

[Andrew Hughes]

The key to setting knives is to snug them just enough so that you can move them up or down. As you tighten the gibs the final time the cutting circle is opening up. What makes setting knives difficult is a warped or bowed knife.
Always start with knives that are ground straight perfectly sharp and in balance.
Good Luck

[Matt Day]

Very lightly tighten one then do the other ones the same, then come back around and go tighter on all of them, then a final tightening.

The one way multi gauge is perfect for jointer knife setting.

[Brian Runau]

The key to setting knives is to . As you tighten the gibs the final time the cutting circle is opening up. What makes setting knives difficult is a warped or bowed knife.
Always start with knives that are ground straight perfectly sharp and in balance.
Good Luck

I am doing the first item (snug them just enough so that you can move them up or down). By gibs I assume you mean the nuts. Yes, when I finally tighten them down the blade is rising out of the recess higher than it was set. Are you saying that it SHOULD do this? If yes, how do I know the final set up is even across the blade and from blade to blade if it moves from the jig tolerance? Blades are good and professionally sharpened by the same guy that does them for Woodcraft. Brian

[Brian Runau]

Very lightly tighten one then do the other ones the same, then come back around and go tighter on all of them, then a final tightening.

The one way multi gauge is perfect for jointer knife setting.

Matt: thanks, what I have been doing worked fine for the last 12-13 years, just in the last couples changes have the blades started moving when I tighten them. I do gently snug them across the blade so the blade still moves set the night and then gently tighten them and go back and finish tighten them, but still moving the height up for some reason.
Thanks brian

[mike calabrese]

Most likely you know this method but for what it is worth.
To Compensate for the blade (knife) rise when tightened strips of masking tape can be added at the blade (knife) magnet to modify the pre tightened height.
The attached picture should be reasonable explanatory but ask any questions477179

[Brian Runau]

Most likely you know this method but for what it is worth.
To Compensate for the blade (knife) rise when tightened strips of masking tape can be added at the blade (knife) magnet to modify the pre tightened height.
The attached picture should be reasonable explanatory but ask any questions477179


Mike: Would the pressure of a magnet be enough to keep them from moving? I have heard of using a piece of glass with a weight on it in the same way. thanks brian

[Warren Lake]

Brian is your stuff all clean no burrs etc each time I change knives all goes under a wire wheel on the grinder to clean it. All the bolts come out and under the wheel and im sure there are no sharp edges. Slot is cleaned as well wire brush. Usually the machining in the groove is rough and maybe on purpose for safety for grip. If so I could see how stuff could climb but maybe its not climbing maybe the knife is just being pushed harder when tightend. I really dont think I find stuff climbs when setting. But maybe the machine I used the most is different than the older general stuff

[Andrew Hughes]

I really don’t see how your knives could be slipping upward unless the gibs are horribly defective or deformed.
The two best ways to set knives are the stick drag and dial indicator with a mushroom tip. The closer we get each knife to another the longer they last each taking a cut. It’s a worthwhile endeavor
What most people are noticing as they tighten the gibs is the knife slot expanding and the tip of the knives is swinging open or out. It’s not something you can prevent from happening but you can account for it.
On my jointer I’ve found one side the knives slot expands more then the other. My solution is to hit that side down when the gib is snug not tight. When all the knives are sticking out from the head to my liking then I set the outfeed table height. With the wheel provided by the manufacturer on the end of the outfeed table.
Always start with knives that are ground as straight as possible sharp and in balance.
Here a pic of my raw hide knife hammer.

[mike calabrese]

Hi Brian
The glass method could work but the magnets will pull the knife up so it is co-planer with the out feed table, No the magnets are simply there to pull the knife up and hold it in space supposedly happy with the outfeed table
Sometimes it is necessary to put some shims over the magnet over the knife (masking tape or similar) to leave the knife short of the out feed to kind of compensate for the "rise you may get when the bolts are loaded against the knife.
It is a hit or miss process. In the end I have a mag base dial indicator so I can get an idea the relative position of the knife to other knifes and to the outfeed table.
If the knife reads too high I add a layer of tape to stand the knife down some, to undershoot the height so to speak.
I recently replaced 3 knife blades on my Jet 6 inch took me about 1 1/2 hours of screwing with this but in the end I got all 3 within .001 of each other and even with the outfeed.
The other thing you want to check is that your in feed and out feed tables are even to each other, long straight edge is all you need here.
Bottom line this is a miserable process but the result is so nice when you finally get it dialed in.
mike calabrese

[Brian Runau]

Brian is your stuff all clean no burrs etc each time I change knives all goes under a wire wheel on the grinder to clean it. All the bolts come out and under the wheel and im sure there are no sharp edges. Slot is cleaned as well wire brush. Usually the machining in the groove is rough and maybe on purpose for safety for grip. If so I could see how stuff could climb but maybe its not climbing maybe the knife is just being pushed harder when tightend. I really dont think I find stuff climbs when setting. But maybe the machine I used the most is different than the older general stuff

I do use brass brush to clean slots etc. Maybe over time the slot is smoothed from the nut head allowing upward movement. Iset height using the grizzly jig, feet set on cutter head raising the blade to clearance with the foot stable. After tightening the foot rocks due to blade being to high. Brian

[Mike Kees]

Brian ,you have a jackscrew cutter head. Snug your knives purposely low, do all three. Now use an indicator or stick or whatever for the height adjustment but use the screws to raise the blades to the same plane. Then tighten them slowly ,going around the head all three knives in stages. This worked really well for me.

[Brian Runau]

Brian ,you have a jackscrew cutter head. Snug your knives purposely low, do all three. Now use an indicator or stick or whatever for the height adjustment but use the screws to raise the blades to the same plane. Then tighten them slowly ,going around the head all three knives in stages. This worked really well for me.

I tried this, but when I final tighten them, they are being raised in the process. Thanks brian

[Tom M King]

If they all raise the same amount, just raise the outfeed table after you're finished setting them.

[Billy Stray]

I have one of those "one way" tools , its a game changer!!!

[Robert Hazelwood]

It's normal for the knives to rise a few thousandths when you tighten due to the gib bolts distorting the cutterhead. It's difficult to account for this with the knife setting jig except by trial and error. It's why I like to use a dial indicator to measure the knife relative to the outfeed table or cutterhead, because I can monitor the rise as I tighten.