Hand tool window help needed after error

[Scott Clausen]

Last night I was trying to finish joining the top sash meeting rail to the stiles. I looked at my layout lines and thought “why do I have another line here?” I was also starting to think about how I was going to cut the glazing rebate without being able to go all the way to the end but kept working anyway cutting the tenons in the stiles. Suddenly I woke at 4:30 and it hit me, I was supposed to leave one side of the stile longer to fill the meeting rail glazing rebate.
So I have three options
1) add a filler piece – this is my least favorite as it gives moisture one more point of entry and looks bad.
2) Cut a stopped rebate, but how. I am doing a hand tool built so I would prefer to do by hand but a router (power) is all I can think of and finish the ends with chisel.
3) Start over on the stiles – I can’t remember if I cut both or not.
So my question here is can I cut a stopped rebate using hand tools?
The only way that comes to mind is to cut a knife wall and remove waste with a chisel repeatedly. Finish final depth with a router plane. Any other ideas out there? The rebate needs to be 1/2” deep.

[James Pallas]

Don’t know what tools you have. Cut as much as you can with your rabbet plane. Rough in the rest with a chisel. Finish with a bull nose plane and chisel at the very end. There are some tricks with rabbet planes or combination planes but more complicated for just a few.
Jim

[Jim Koepke]

Don’t know what tools you have. Cut as much as you can with your rabbet plane.
[edited]
Jim

Knowing what tools are available to the person asking questions of method is mandatory for a quick answer.

If you have a rabbet plane it could be very easy with a Stanley #78, Record #778 or Sargent #79. These all have a bullnose position which would allow you to use the by merely sawing and chiseling the waste at the front and back of the plane.

If you have a Stanley #45 or similar plane cutting stopped dados and other work is fairly simple. There is still a little chisel work but less than with your average rabbet plane.

There a few different posts on this concept. The gist of the matter is the depth stops are set to a position just below the skates. Resting the skates on feeler gauge helps with this. Then as the cut is being made the blade is lowered about a quarter turn of the adjuster on each subsequent pass.

Read more here in the following links:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?196104

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?242089

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?257497

For a clean finish, cut a little short of what is needed at the toe of the plane. Use a chisel to make a clean end.

jtk

[Scott Clausen]

Sorry, I have a nice amount of hand tools now. Stanley 78, 45, large veritas router with full set of blades and a large shoulder plane. With this being a stopped rebate and not a dado coming in from the side with a chisel would be easy. I thought about using the 45 to do a light pass to establish a wall but I could probably do just as well with a knife. Thanks for the links Jim, I will check them out.

[Scott Clausen]

Wow, you have really put some thought into this. I can't wait to go look at both of my 45's fence's. I am still having trouble getting my head wrapped around this but will use my 45 as a visual aid tonight.

[Jim Koepke]

Wow, you have really put some thought into this. I can't wait to go look at both of my 45's fence's. I am still having trouble getting my head wrapped around this but will use my 45 as a visual aid tonight.

The idea is you ride the plane on the depth stops instead of the skates. A long rod out the right side with the cam stop would help keep the plane level.

Let me know if you need more pictures or other information.

This all came about after wondering why there were often #45s with a notch in the fence. The notch allows the blade to be adjusted down through the fence.

Save the rosewood and make a fence out of a piece of scrap pine.

jtk

[Scott Clausen]

No grooves in my 45 fences and like you I can't bring myself to make one in rosewood. I didn't get far enough last night to play around with the 45 yet.

[Jim Koepke]

No grooves in my 45 fences and like you I can't bring myself to make one in rosewood. I didn't get far enough last night to play around with the 45 yet.

If you have a blade just a little less wide than the size of the rabbet, a stopped plow can be cut and then carefully remove the outside edge waste. This would make it so modifying the fence would be unnecessary.

jtk