Lift lock and roll

[Gregg Feldstone]

I wish I had bought the lift lock and roll mobility device which apparently is not made anymore. Does anyone know where I could get one or have one to sell? I need it for my PM 3520 B

[Paul Heely]

Not exactly what you are asking for, but what I do for moving my 3520b is a lightweight floor jack and 4 of these tri-dolly from Amazon. Works like a charm. Each tri-dolly is rated for 300lb, and I've had no problems with them handling the weight. I jack up one end a couple of inches and slide one under each foot. Repeat on the other end of the lathed, and then roll into position. Repeat to remove the dolly. Not as quick and easy as the lift lock and roll, but it's worked great for me.

Paul

476695

[Pat Scott]

I have a Lift Lock n Roll that I don't use. I put them on my lathe and haven't moved my lathe for years so I took them off and they've been sitting in the corner.

[Robert Hayward]

Gregg, if you have metal working abilities, welding, cutting and grinding I can walk you through the steps of making your own Lift Lock and Roll.

[David Walser]

Gregg -- Perhaps you can work something out with Pat. If not, allow me to suggest Harbor Freight's 1,000lb capacity hydraulic table cart. It's what I use to move my PM 3520C. (The cart fits between the legs and easily lifts the entire lathe off the floor.) I bought it to avoid liftgate fees on a delivery a few years ago. Since then, I've found countless uses for it. It raises to the height of my pickup truck's bed, making unloading heavy items much easier. I use it as an extension of my workbench or as an outfeed table for my table saw. It's very handy to have around.

[Roger Chandler]

I’ve been searching thru pics of the LL&R mobility system. I have the metal working/welding skills, but need info on parts, sizes, angles, etc. I want to fabricate two sets, one for my G0800 and one for my G0766 lathes. If anyone has some detailed plans, I would really be interested.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Gregg -- allow me to suggest Harbor Freight's 1,000lb capacity hydraulic table cart.

+1 on the HF hydraulic table cart. I use it to reposition my Laguna 2436 lathe often and very easily. I have an 11x14' shop with very tight space so for storage, I've started storing it under my ways when not in use and then whenever I am turning I pull it out and use it as a table/tool caddy next to my lathe. The one downside is that it is very heavy and hard to move up/down stairs (my shop is in my basement, so I pretty much keep the hydraulic table there exclusively).
Tom

[Robert Hayward]

I made my LL&R from pictures so I do not have any plans, hand drawn sketches only. I initially made a wooden mock up to see if my design would work, in theory as it was not strong enough to hold up a 3520b. I will put together list of what I used to make mine and post it here in this thread. Maybe one of the CAD types can produce a working drawing for everyone.

[Brice Rogers]

There is a thread about 3" below called Caster for Jet1642 and Dick Mahony posted some pictures of a Lift Lock and Load made out of wood. The concept is very clear from Dick's pictures. It would be easy to make one without the need for welding (for those that don't have a welder) and a person could substitute aluminum or steel plate if anyone doubted the strength of the wood. I encourage folks to take a look.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?297150-Caster-for-Jet-1642

[Robert Hayward]

The main angle is 3X3X1/4. The angled pieces are 2X1/4 on a 45 degree angle. The caster support pieces are 3X1/4. The pivot rods are 3/4 diameter. The caster hinge bolts are 1/2" and are inside a 1/2" schedule 40 steel water pipe that had to be reamed to smooth the internal weld seam. The lifting cams are 2X1/2 with a cam type radius ground on one end to allow easy lifting of the lathe. The casters are 3" and I believe polyolefin, do not really remember. Check Caster City web site for what they recommend, that is what I did.

Not having an engineering background to calculate stress and loads I used material heavy enough to support way more than a 3520b lathe. For those looking at all the shavings and chips laying about in my pictures, I actually use my shop.

The critical dimensions are the caster hinge points and the cam hinge points. These two determine how high and easy your LLR will operate. Also whether or not the castors will clear the floor when the lathe is on its factory feet. It is recommended you do a full size mock up of one corner of the lifting mechanism. I made mine out of wood and actually attached a caster to determine the best locations for the pivot points. I used the wood model to determine the shape of the lifting cam also. Once welding begins it would take a lot of work to grind welds and cut the assembly apart to change the position of a hinge. I drilled the cam pivot rod for cotter pins as you can see in the pictures. No idea why I thought I needed that. Once the assembly is welded there is no removing the pivot rod. The position of the lifting handle on the cam pivot rod is important also. With the lathe sitting on its factory feet the lifting handle should rest against the lathe legs so it does not fall down and cause a tripping hazard. The handle also needs to clear the shop floor when the lathe is up on the LLR casters.

When I made my LLR my 3520b was still under warranty so I made the device so it could be attached and used with no modifications to the lathe. No holes drilled, nothing. I also left the factory leveling feet intact by cutting a slot in the 3X3 angle so the angle would go around the factory feet.

[Roger Chandler]

Thank you much for this detailed info, Robert…. It is much appreciated!

[Robert Hayward]

Thank you much for this detailed info, Robert…. It is much appreciated!

If you or anyone else wants better measurements or explanations just ask.

[Roger Chandler]

If you or anyone else wants better measurements or explanations just ask.

I will likely take you up on your offer here, as I have ordered the steel for the fabrication for both my lathe LL&R units. Perhaps, I might send you a private message, and we could exchange a phone number, so conversation and questions might be easier, if you are okay with that?

Thanks again! :)

[Robert Hayward]

Yes, I am good with that.

[Mike Goetzke]

Gregg, if you have metal working abilities, welding, cutting and grinding I can walk you through the steps of making your own Lift Lock and Roll.

Robert helped me make one of these! He was very helpful in teaching me to weld by email. Ha - was also helpful in helping me spend $ on my side-hobby. All kidding aside, welding is very fun hobby. I just need more time to play around and practice.

[Robert Hayward]

Adding one more picture to show the caster hinge bolt sleeve.

Hi Mike, have not seen you around here lately.

[Roger Chandler]

Robert, you & Mike have me chomping at the bit to get to making my units. I got a Miller Multimatic 215, and have welded a couple of steady rests already, and done some repairs on a friends landscape roller. I have most of what I need on hand,except casters, and maybe some 3/8 steel flat bar. Gonna get exciting around here soon! :D Mike has offered his CAD drawings….looking forward to them arriving by email!

[Robert Hayward]

That 215 is a nice machine. I use a 211. Nice of Mike to offer CAD drawings! Order your casters before you start building. The geometry of the casters will determine the final shape/sizes of your lift.

How do you cut steel? If you do not have one already look into a cold cut saw for steel. When I got my 14" Steelmax saw and sold the abrasive chop saw it was a game changer for my metal working. Just looked at current prices and was a bit shocked. Mine was less than half of current price.

[Mike Goetzke]

Robert, you & Mike have me chomping at the bit to get to making my units. I got a Miller Multimatic 215, and have welded a couple of steady rests already, and done some repairs on a friends landscape roller. I have most of what I need on hand,except casters, and maybe some 3/8 steel flat bar. Gonna get exciting around here soon! :D Mike has offered his CAD drawings….looking forward to them arriving by email!

Robert pointed me to this SkilSaw SPT62MTC when it was $250! I use this saw often but they are loud.

[Roger Chandler]

I currently use a 7-1/4" circular saw with a Diablo "Steel Demon" blade, and have a portaband mounted on a Swag table in verticle orientation for small parts. I also have a plasma cutter, so at this point, cutting metal plate or square stock is not an issue. I have been toying with the idea of an Evolution 14" metal saw. Having a dedicated miter saw for steel would be helpful, but I'm so crowded now for space, that is on the back burner. I am planning to relocate for retirement, so a new house/shop is in the plans, but real estate prices are thru the roof right now! :eek:

Mike, your CAD drawing arrived today...what is your caster size in the drawing?

[Mike Goetzke]

Mike, your CAD drawing arrived today...what is your caster size in the drawing?

Wheels are 3" diameter and the top of the mounting plate is 4-1/8" from the ground.

[Roger Chandler]

Robert and Mike….what is the total length of your main angled supports [the ones with the 45 degree angle]? Measured along the centerline of the piece?

[Robert Hayward]

From the long point of the 45 to the square cut end is 6 7/8" on mine.

I know you asked for center line but too difficult to measure with all the other stuff in the way. It should be real easy to figure out the center line measurement with what I gave you.

[Roger Chandler]

From the long point of the 45 to the square cut end is 6 7/8" on mine.

I know you asked for center line but too difficult to measure with all the other stuff in the way. It should be real easy to figure out the center line measurement with what I gave you.
Thanks Robert, much appreciated. I got my casters yesterday, and now just need some time to work on these. I also have some tie down rings coming in tomorrow to weld on one of my trailers. When I go to move, those will come in handy to move my lathes with the LL&R.

[Mike Goetzke]

Robert and Mike….what is the total length of your main angled supports [the ones with the 45 degree angle]? Measured along the centerline of the piece?
Here is mine (you should be able to scale the print and take dimensions as needed):

478010

[Roger Chandler]

Here is mine (you should be able to scale the print and take dimensions as needed):

478010. Thanks so much, Mike…this drawing really is helpful!

[Roger Chandler]

Well, no joy quite yet on building these LL&R bases. Had to take a trip out of town for a family situation, and had to get the garden planted, and regular work duties and such. Now, it looks like about 3 weeks before I can get to fabricating these. Stay tuned….

[Robert Hayward]

Thanks for the update. I had been wondering how you were coming along with the project.

[Roger Chandler]

Back home now, and hope at least to get started in the next few days. Got some major lawn work to do though, rains and high temps while away have gotten the lawn looking a bit like a hayfield! :eek: When I get into the making, I might give you a phone call Robert!

[Roger Chandler]

I have most of the parts cut for the assembly now. I have to drill the holes on the supports, lifting cam, etc. I need to get some bolts, washers and nuts for the casters, and axle from the hardware store next week, then a mock up with a corner tac-welded to test the apparatus. If all goes well, then full blown assembly and welding of the parts ... stay tuned! :)

[Roger Chandler]

I ran into a snag on this build. The 3/4” bar I wanted wasn’t available from McMaster-Carr when I got materials, but they had a 3/4” galvanized, so I got them. Turns out the 3/4” diameter was made bigger by the galvanized dip, so I need to find some 3/4” rod….about 12 feet for both lathes.
Galvanized is terrible to weld, and can really cause health problems, which I did not know when I ordered on the fly a while back.

One place I checked last week did not have any, so I’m searching. When I get some progress, I’ll post again.

[Robert Hayward]

To make things more troublesome not all 3/4" round stock is really 3/4". My 3/4" round stock was a tiny bit over 3/4" and would not fit in a 3/4" drilled hole. I realized this after I had cut, shaped and drilled all my pieces that needed holes. Was able to borrow a ream that was 49/64".

[Roger Chandler]

To make things more troublesome not all 3/4" round stock is really 3/4". My 3/4" round stock was a tiny bit over 3/4" and would not fit in a 3/4" drilled hole. I realized this after I had cut, shaped and drilled all my pieces that needed holes. Was able to borrow a ream that was 49/64".I’m going to check with some steel suppliers within about a 100 mile area from me, and see if I can’t get the rod I need. Fortunately, I only drilled a 3/4” hole in two of the many parts I cut out, as I was going to use them for a mock up of one corner to test the lift, so If I need to, I can cut two more, and back down to a 1/2” rod, or maybe a 5/8” rod, depending on what is available.

Don’t you just love the supply chain issues we’re experiencing these days?! :rolleyes:

[Mark Greenbaum]

If there is a Metals Marketplace store near you, they have scrap bins with numerous good stock of all types of metals. They will also ship.


I’m going to check with some steel suppliers within about a 100 mile area from me, and see if I can’t get the rod I need. Fortunately, I only drilled a 3/4” hole in two of the many parts I cut out, as I was going to use them for a mock up of one corner to test the lift, so If I need to, I can cut two more, and back down to a 1/2” rod, or maybe a 5/8” rod, depending on what is available.

Don’t you just love the supply chain issues we’re experiencing these days?! :rolleyes:

[Brice Rogers]

I've bought some steel and brass on ebay. Shipping can be a deal killer though. The smart sellers know how to ship cheaply. Once I bought a half dozen 12" long x 1" diameter 12L14 (free machining steel) and the shipping was something like only $6 (New York to Calif). The shipper taped the rounds together, wrapped with stretch wrap and put into a non-padded USPS envelope. Then the seller wrapped the entire envelope with two layers of reinforced filament tape. The package probably weighed 20 or 30 pounds and proved to be indestructible.