MM16 Throat Plate Replacement

[Izzy Charo]

The throat plate on my MM16 (2007) sags and needs to be replaced. Wondering if anyone has a source for this (other than SCM) or has 3D printed one? Thanks in advance!
Izzy

[Keith Outten]

Can you provide a drawing for the plate?

[Zachary Hoyt]

I've always made bandsaw throat plates out of aluminum plate. You can get 6"x6" or so pieces of aluminum plate in various thicknesses on eBay and they will provide enough to make 4 or more throat plates for any saw I've worked on, though I'm not familiar with Euro saws and maybe they are different. It's easy to cut the aluminum to size with a jigsaw and then sand it to a final fit on a belt or a disc sander. My current 18" bandsaw is an old Parks and it has to have a pin to keep the plate from turning in the hole, so I drilled and tapped a hole in the aluminum and screwed in a brass screw that I had sanded down to the right diameter. Once the threads were bottomed out I hit the screw between a hammer and anvil, and locked it in place.

[Kevin Jenness]

When I got my used MM16 the throat plate was dished and cracked. I built it up with thickened epoxy.

[Mark e Kessler]

I designed and 3d printed one, i can get you the file but not sure how to get it to you. Can they be attached in a dm?

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[Jamie Buxton]

I built one from a few scraps of baltic birch plywood. Or if you don't have baltic birch, any hardwood will do.

[Jim Becker]

Material and method doesn't really matter...it just needs to level up to the table and it should be perforated like the OEM insert to assist with dust collection air flow.

[John Pendery]

I have the same saw and have made replacement inserts with baltic birch ply and hardwood as others have suggested. Quick and easy to make, and they have served me better than the factory insert did.

[Bruce Page]

As nice as the MM16 is, they cheeped out on the throat plate. I destroyed mine doing some resawing. You will likely need to contact SCM for a replacement or find someone with a 3D printer setup. I have metal working equipment, so I elected to make one out of some ¼” brass plate: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?105988-Fixing-a-MiniMax-16-Weakness

[Joe Calhoon]

I made a 2 piece wood throat plate for both my Hema and Aggazani saws. With extra inserts to keep it fresh and for different blades.

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[Izzy Charo]

Hi Mark,
I sent you a PM
Izzy

[edward kinslade]

Mark.
If you have the STL file, it would be fantastic to share it......
We all seem to struggle with this insert :)

[Frank Necaise]

Mark sent me his STL file back in April. I printed one last night. Izzy message me your address and I will drop it in the mail to you. Frank
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[David Zaret]

Mark sent me his STL file back in April. I printed one last night. Izzy message me your address and I will drop it in the mail to you. Frank
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guys, i have a laser and can make these from 1/4” baltic if we think that would work. happy to make for others on the creek. can someone send me the file?

[Mark e Kessler]

I missed this, PM me your email and i will sent it. I don’t think there is a way to send via SMC.


Mark.
If you have the STL file, it would be fantastic to share it......
We all seem to struggle with this insert :)

[John TenEyck]

FWIW, the holes will help with air flow only when the stock is narrow enough to allow them to remain open. Any piece that covers the holes will shut them off. And have you (collective, no one in particular) every considered how few CFM can flow through those little holes. No much. What's more important is how the air comes into the dust collection system below the table. That's where the teeth are carrying the dust and the only place it can be removed from the blade. Above the table the dust is trapped in the kerf.

The insert plate will be stronger w/o holes.

John

[Mark e Kessler]

Sure, I find the holes somewhat effective as and will leave them. Also it’s strong enough although my print is made on a Markforged printer which prints with reinforced chopped carbon fibre, not sure about other pedestrian type printers


FWIW, the holes will help with air flow only when the stock is narrow enough to allow them to remain open. Any piece that covers the holes will shut them off. And have you (collective, no one in particular) every considered how few CFM can flow through those little holes. No much. What's more important is how the air comes into the dust collection system below the table. That's where the teeth are carrying the dust and the only place it can be removed from the blade. Above the table the dust is trapped in the kerf.

The insert plate will be stronger w/o holes.

John

[Leigh Betsch]

David, If you do make a batch of these I'd be interested in purchasing one. I'm assuming that it would fit my MM20 also. I don't have the ability to create a solid model though.

[edward kinslade]

Mark. I reached out to you for the file - thanks.
You could also put it on 'Thingiverse' there is a Universe of woodworking related prints on that site.
Cheers
Ed

[Edwin Santos]

I fully understand the reason for the holes, but why on earth is the throat plate so deep (thick)?
Every time I am performing an operation that requires me to tilt the table any more than a scant 3 or 4 degrees, that deep throat plate is a problem and needs to come out.

[Robert LaPlaca]

Edwin, the ribbing on the MM Centauro built bandsaws are very deep, Centauro unfortunately chose that the throat plate is secured at the bottom edge of the the table ribbing, hence why the stupid throat plate is so thick. If the throat blade was secured in a rebate at the top of the table, a much thinner plate could be used..

[Lee Schierer]

As nice as the MM16 is, they cheeped out on the throat plate. I destroyed mine doing some resawing. You will likely need to contact SCM for a replacement or find someone with a 3D printer setup. I have metal working equipment, so I elected to make one out of some ¼” brass plate: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?105988-Fixing-a-MiniMax-16-Weakness

That is a very nice looking insert. Since the saw table is cast iron, it would appear that yo could securely hold the brass insert you made in place with a couple of rare earth magnets set into holes in the insert.

[Bruce Page]

Thanks Lee. The weight of the brass and a snug fit keeps the throat plate in place very well. I rarely ever tilt the table but I don’t think it would be a problem if/when I do.