Simple dovetails?

[James Pallas]

I’m always aware of the number of tools and the number of processes used for a task. I have been using this method for a few years now. I haven’t done any tails for a while and decided to give myself a little practice because I have a project coming up. I thought to share as it may be useful to some. The first 2 photos show the crate material used. I cut in in half using my 10 point backsaw set one piece on the end of the other and marke with a pencil line. The next photos show setting the saw by thinking 11:55 or 12:05 for the other end. Saw down to the line by eye and check with a square if you wish. The next photos show all of the cuts done by eye. I next chisel the waste being careful to cut to the line an leaving it. TO BE CONTINUED.
Jim

[Scott Clausen]

I started using a knife line to mark the tail & pin depth. I find it more absolute than pencil and allows me skip over the areas to remain unlike a gauge line. Maybe I am too picky, or so bad I need all the help I can get.

[Jim Koepke]

I started using a knife line to mark the tail & pin depth. I find it more absolute than pencil and allows me skip over the areas to remain unlike a gauge line. Maybe I am too picky, or so bad I need all the help I can get.

Have to agree Scott. My biggest problem with my early attempts at dovetails was using a pencil and learning to saw next to the line. The pencil would have difficulty marking right up to the edge of the tail on the pin board or up to the edge of the pin on the tail board. The pencil line was always in the part of the joint to be kept.

Now my marking is done with a thin knife with a bevel only on one side. Sometimes a pencil is used to make the line more visible. A white pencil helps on darker woods.

jtk

[Derek Cohen]

I started using a knife line to mark the tail & pin depth. I find it more absolute than pencil and allows me skip over the areas to remain unlike a gauge line. Maybe I am too picky, or so bad I need all the help I can get.

Not only that, but a chisel wall will ensure that the line does not move back ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3_html_1c5285f4.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Scott Clausen]

Not only that, but a chisel wall will ensure that the line does not move back ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3_html_1c5285f4.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek
I do a full line on the inside of the joint and just the parts to be removed on the show side. On almost every project I get twisted up and get them reversed at least once. I need more practice I guess.

[Jim Koepke]

I do a full line on the inside of the joint and just the parts to be removed on the show side. On almost every project I get twisted up and get them reversed at least once. I need more practice I guess.

This used to happen to me. One solution was to come up with a marking system that identified the lower corners on the inside of a piece.

The lower right corner of a tail board will have the same mark as the lower left corner of the mating pin board. The outsides will have no mark.

Arrows always point to up if not otherwise noted.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Insides are ALWAYS marked....with a pencil...as to "IN" for inside...."T" for the top edge...and a "B" for the bottom edge....and, as each corner is done..a number is assigned...either a "#1" or sometimes a series of marks like the Romans used.."III".....Once the box is glued up, a piece of sandpaper can erase all those marks.....well, sometimes the groove for the bottom panel will "take out " the B...

Helps me keep things straight, when glue up time arrives, in the usual rush....

[Mike Allen1010]

This used to happen to me. One solution was to come up with a marking system that identified the lower corners on the inside of a piece.

The lower right corner of a tail board will have the same mark as the lower left corner of the mating pin board. The outsides will have no mark.

Arrows always point to up if not otherwise noted.

jtk

As usual Jim, great suggestion. FWIW, I was trained with the "cabinetmakers triangle" that always points either to the top of the piece or the back of the carcass. For example if you're laying out a drawer and you have all four pieces on edge as if you are viewing them from above, the front and back would have it 2 part triangle pointing towards the back (tip on the back, and base of triangle on the front), and the two sides would have two part triangle on their upper edges also pointing to the back .

Just now realized, writing this is ridiculous, picture would be much more helpful. Sorry adding a picture to SMC is way too complicated for me. My bad!