Low-tech and low-cost solution for clamping stock on sliding table saw

[Phillip Mitchell]

I did not come up with this arrangement (saw it first from SD woodworker Ben Brunick on Instagram) and finally implemented these on my SCM sliding table saw that came to me with no factory stock hold downs / clamps.

These are the Kreg Automaxx Auto adjust 6” bench clamps with the compatible bases mixed with some T slot and stubby bolt hardware from McMaster Carr to fit close to my saw’s table slot dimensions. I did end up having to grind about 1/16” of thickness off the bottom of the T slots to get everything to fit properly. There was not an off the shelf t slot but that would fit exactly as ordered.

I certainly considered and priced a pair of Mac Campshure’s Air Tight pneumatic clamps, but just didn’t have enough pennies set aside for that at the moment. This solution was around $120 for all hardware / shipping for the pair. A pair of air clamps for my saw was priced at around $3200 a few months back.

I obviously don’t have the crosscut fence /outrigger on the saw for the photo, but typically am using that for cross cutting, but still felt like I needed clamps for certain / most cuts. Now my hands will be free to only focus on pushing the sliding table through the cut and not a human clamp.

Maybe this will help someone. This has been on the list for a handful of months and excited to start using them. They slide very easily along the entire length of the table slot for quick movement and adjustment. The clamps themselves have a good bit of auto adjustment clamping pressure and can also be manually adjusted via spring loaded cap screw on the clamp. They can also swivel to pretty much any angle/position for odd clamp positioning.

Thanks for looking.

[Jim Becker]

Good solution. Practical and cost effective when the machine doesn't have the OEM cam clamps available. I made the tee stock from oak and use blind nuts on the bottom.

[Mike Kees]

Phillip I will finally have to figure out how to post pictures. Funny but I came to that exact same clamp on my own. My base is slightly different ,I used steel and made my own T track moulding from a Piece of UHMW stuff that a friend gave me. The clamps work real well. My first attempt used a Quick grip type clamp and was not great but worked for about a year. Love the auto adjust feature of these. I also have one six inch clamp and one smaller one, like the six inch better.

[Jacques Gagnon]

Mike,

Here is how I managed to insert photos so far:

1. Press the image icon

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2. Choose select file on computer

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3. Find the files you wish to use

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4. Select the file and press « Use »

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5. Press the « upload files » button

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This is how I do it on my tablet; the computer interface will be a bit different, mostly related to the location of your files.

I hope this helps,

J.

[Kevin Jenness]

That looks good, Philip. I like the self-adjusting feature. Is the throat large enough to reach over the crosscut fence?

Here's one of mine using a press screw. I made a batch of wooden runners for various jigs with tee nuts for fastening.474797

Also a wedge jig for diverting cutoffs away from the blade (thanks to Rod Sheridan)474798

[Phillip Mitchell]

Phillip I will finally have to figure out how to post pictures. Funny but I came to that exact same clamp on my own. My base is slightly different ,I used steel and made my own T track moulding from a Piece of UHMW stuff that a friend gave me. The clamps work real well. My first attempt used a Quick grip type clamp and was not great but worked for about a year. Love the auto adjust feature of these. I also have one six inch clamp and one smaller one, like the six inch better.

Hah! My first idea was modify the end of a Dewalt quick grip clamp to be more like the tracksaw style clamp, but have it fit in my table slot. It ended up being more than I wanted to deal with and would leave the thin metal clamp bar sticking up in the way. I knew about the Kreg clamps and decided to try this approach.

Posting photos is interesting on this site. I have found that I always need to rotate them 360* and very slightly crop / edit them in some way (on my phone usually) prior to posting or they will end up randomly rotated.

[Phillip Mitchell]

That looks good, Philip. I like the self-adjusting feature. Is the throat large enough to reach over the crosscut fence?

Here's one of mine using a press screw. I made a batch of wooden runners for various jigs with tee nuts for fastening.474797

Also a wedge jig for diverting cutoffs away from the blade (thanks to Rod Sheridan)474798

I really like that wedge offcut diverter....might have to make something similar. I usually keep an air hose w/ blow gun laying on the table close at hand and give small off cuts a blast of air to push them away but it’s an extra step and an awkward reach back/around depending on the size of whatever I’m cutting.

Yes, the clamps clear my crosscut fence. The first setup I saw of these on someone else’s saw must have had a taller x cut fence because he had shimmed up the bottom of the front / reaching over the fence clamp to clear. I don’t really have other Kreg products, but these clamps seem very nicely suited to this application and I’m looking forward to using them for the added safety and convenience. With proper pressure adjustments there is no movement from the end of a piece clamped like a showed in the first post even with significant sideways force from me yanking on it.

[Mike Kees]

Kevin ,I use the six inch one over my crosscut fence. I welded a base with a piece of 1/2'' thick steel so it would work out.

[Mike Wilkins]

Saw something similar on a YouTube video recently and just purchased the Kreg clamp to make my own hold downs. I have to get creative since my Laguna slider does not have off the shelf hold down
hardware. Your idea is top notch.

[Mike Stelts]

I found Kreg clamps to be the most versatile. I used very old, very hard oak with T-nuts in the slot. Oak is easy to "machine". An unexpected problem was that the oak was too hard to drive in the t-nut pins - I had to predrill starter holes.

I originally bought the Felder clamp for behind the fence; but, it went to storage. It's too picky about board thickness, doesn't pull wood into the fence, and a chore to remove when it's in the way.

[Jonathan Jung]

Good solution. Curious why SCM didn't have any clamp available? How old is the saw?

[Mel Fulks]

I think saw manufacturers just don’t want to be found responsible in a court of law for someone getting cut. The lawyer for an injured guy
will say what I’m saying . “The clamps are fine, where was the fence ?” You can buy a chop saw cheaper than those clamps. And they come
with a fence.

[Rod Sheridan]

Yes, I made a diverted wedge with magnets long ago, a great addition to a saw…..Regards, Rod

[Phillip Mitchell]

Good solution. Curious why SCM didn't have any clamp available? How old is the saw?

The saw is from the early 80s. I seem to remember calling SCM right after acquiring the saw and asking about a few different accessories - the hold down being one of them - and them saying they had nothing but manual PDFs for that model at this point. They just don’t support machines that are this old in my experience; I have a L’invincible shaper and planer that are slightly older than this saw (late 70s from my research) and they have told me the same thing when calling about those models.

[Phillip Mitchell]

I think saw manufacturers just don’t want to be found responsible in a court of law for someone getting cut. The lawyer for an injured guy
will say what I’m saying . “The clamps are fine, where was the fence ?” You can buy a chop saw cheaper than those clamps. And they come
with a fence.

Mel, to be clear - I have a crosscut fence and (cast iron auxiliary table) that I use anytime there is cross cutting happening. I keep it off when not using repeatedly as my shop is tiny and it can clogs up the flow of walking past the saw, so I just didn’t install it for this photo. Would never crosscut without the fence and expect any level of success and safety.

[Jonathan Jung]

That's good to know. I thought it was newer since you said SCM, but it must be an SCMI. I've got a '91 SCMI wide belt for which I've been able to get 5-6 special parts for. Maybe I should plan on retiring it in the next 10 years.

It seems odd that something so simple like a "miter" track clamp would be defunct.

[Phillip Mitchell]

Lol, SCM before it went to SCM(I). They have come full circle and are now back to SCM. I think the “I” was added sometime mid-late 80s but others would know better.

I don’t know what their actual age threshold is for keeping parts in stock, but they definitely aren’t focused on provided any real level of support or parts as machines get over ~20-25 years old. Not that I blame them, there is no profit or efficiency in doing that, but it is something to be aware of when considering older machinery.

The sliding table on my saw is all cast iron (not aluminum like models from the early 90s through present) and likely had a totally different T slot dimension and hold down design that was probably phased out and upgraded at least a few times over by now, I’d imagine.

Also, given the prices that they charge for their OEM replacement parts, I wouldn’t be surprised if a single stock hold down clamp was in the $500-800 range from them. At that price I’d rather save my pennies and do what I’ve done here and/or build my own pneumatic clamping system over time.