Need to chat with someone who is well versed in rifle reloading

[Don Morris]

I give up. My son and I have a 1903 A3 Springfield that we've had for a couple years. Shoots amazingly well. We were moving towards the M1 Grand when the ammo shortage hit, and we've been sitting here for a couple years now waiting for the cost of a box of 30-06 ammo to become reasonable enough to purchase. I'm ready to make that move into reloading and willing to spend $500.00 + even more if necessary to get a quality set-up that will last. I've looked at several reviews, read several articles, but I don't know anyone personally that reloads. My experience with the people on the Creek has always been 100% positive as far as advice and guidance goes. So where better to ask but amongst the people who have helped me the most in the past. Anyone out there who doubles woodworking with an avid interest in reloading? I'm looking primarily for NEW rifle reloading hardware/kit recommendations and/or advice to stay away from some system for a beginner. Note:I did some shotgun reloading 30 years ago. So I'm not unfamiliar with the basics.There are a couple books I know I have to familiarize myself with their content, but I thought I best wait until I had the system I would be using as that might save me some unnecessary reading.

Many Thanks in advance!

V/r

Don M
301 762-3340 Hm
301 503-1680 Cell
donmorris@verizon.net

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Don, I have never reloaded for shotgun but have hunted with them a bit.

I shot rifle bench rest competition using a 6mm Ruger bolt action , hunted elk with a Reminton BDL 30-06, a custom built 338-06 and a custom built 7mm-06 (284 Remington IIRC). I hand loaded for all the rifles, but it's been 20 years since I reloaded. I'd recommend you find someone locally who is a skilled reloader to teach you how to reload rifles. Reloading for rifles I suspect is a totally different beast. Excessive pressures become a whole lot more important and dangerous. For example, once while reloading for hunting loads for the 30-06 using a proven, often personally used load in that rifle, I began to experience evidence of excessive pressures in the form of a slightly harder opening bolt on the rifle and measured unusual, fired case expansion. The cause? A new can of powder from the same manufacture was suddenly turning problems up across the country as they had switched types of cellulose used in the powder. Tolerances become much more important IMO in rifles than in shotguns, I suspect.

I have shot pistol silhouette using a Ruger Mark II 22 caliber and hand loaded for 44 mag.

With rifles, a multistage reloading press isn't necessary IMO. With a shotgun or a pistol, a multistage press would be advantageous. I used an RCBS Rock Chucker press and RCBS dies.

I used RCBS reloading equipment exclusively to support the local manufacturing plant. For target shooting I used Speer bullets as they are locally manufactured, and I could buy them in bulk from a local gun shop. For hunting I used Hornady and Nosler bullets.

[David Dalzell]

I reload for a variety of calibers. I have worked my way through 3-4 different reloaders over the years. For the last 15 or so years I have been using the Dillon Precision RL550 machine. If interested Google Dillion Precision and check out their website. If you call they are very helpful. The RL550 is somewhat pricy but, in my opinion, worth the price. It is capable of fairly high speed loading. That is, many loaded cartridges in a short period of time. Dillon Precision stands behind their guarantee. The RL 550 can handle almost any pistol or rifle cartridge reloading. ( you must buy the caliber dies separately). Among calibers I load the 30-06 also.

[Alex Zeller]

I have a Lee progressive reloader (I think they call it their loadmaster) that I mainly use for pistols but on occasion I have done rifle reloading. My hunting buddy bought a Dillion not long afterwards and the Dillion was a lot nicer press. If I was to replace my press I would seriously look at Dillion. Unless something has changed their warranty is excellent.

[Jerry Bruette]

I've been reloading for 357 mag, 30-30, 300 savage, and 6.5x55 mauser for40 years. Reloading is a very rewarding hobby in my opinion.

Problem you're going to have is finding components. Powder and bullets will probably be the hardest to find. Don't fool yourself either, you won't save any money reloading unless you shoot a lot and I mean several hundred rounds a year.

Not trying to discourage you, just trying to ease you into the sticker shock. I say go for it and I'll help with any advice and encouragement I can give.

The most important and cheapest piece of equipment you'll need is a good reloading manual. Speer, Hornady, Nosler, Sierra all print excellent manuals. If you can, flip through some before buying. Buy one and read through the front half of the manual a couple times until you thoroughly understand the process. You'll avoid a lot of headaches and potential dangerous conditions.

Buy a good cast iron frame press, RCBS, Redding, Lee, Lyman all good names. You'll need a good case trimmer, I have a Lyman and it works well. A good powder scale, I have no experience with the electronic ones so no advice there. I have a RCBS 1010 scale and it's served me well even when I was loading 300 rounds of 357 mag in a session. If you're loading for a Garand you'll want full length sizing dies, neck sized cases may not chamber in semi auto. Most of my dies are from Lee. You'll need a deburring tool and a way to clean primer pockets and a bullet puller. I use the wax based lube in a spray can made by Hornady.

That's a starter. Like I said I'm happy to give any advice I can.

[Rich Engelhardt]

www.thefiringline. com - remove the space

www.thehighroad. org - remove the space

Either/or - or both - can give you access to the information you'll need to get you up and running. They have a separate form for reloading.

I've loaded for .38/.357mag, .44spl/.44mag, 9mm, .45acp, .45 Colt, .30/30 and .30/06 since the mid 1970s. I use a Lee turret press, which is considered a low end piece - that I'll get around to replacing when it wears out. ;).

Dillon is a top brand.

Just remember - there are old reloaders and the are bold reloaders - but - there are no old bold reloaders - as the old saying goes.
Enjoy!
I enjoy the handloading aspect as much as the shooting.

[Perry Hilbert Jr]

I did lots of reloading over the years But no modern cartridges. Always avoided semi autos, they are too hungry. Loaded mostly single shot calibers, 577 Snider, 577-450 Martini, 58 Remington, 50-70, 45-90, 45-70, 11mm Mauser, 43 Spanish Remington 40-50 Sharps, 38-55, 38 XL Ballard, 44-40, 32-20, 25-21 Stevens, Mostly fun stuff that isn't that expensive.

[George Yetka]

I load 9,45,223,308,6.5 grendel, and a few others. First find some primers. I probably have close to 250,000 rounds loaded. There are 2 ways to load, 1 is for volume I load 9,45,223 for volume. 1000 rounds a sitting or more. Then there is for accuracy or low volume. The difference will be whether or not you want automated aspects of the loading.
So for volume I have a dillon 650(auto indexing) with case feeder, powder feeder, and bullet feeder. This is a 5 stage press that automatically moves on the upstroke of the handle.All I am left doing is pulling the handle.
For low volume i'm set up on a dillon 550(manual indexing). I run the case through the press 2 times. The first time through I remove primer/size case then trim the case in another station. The case comes off the press and is cleaned. Then I ream the flash hole deburr/chamfer the case mouth etc polish inside case neck with brush. I then prime off the press. add the powder and introduce the cases one at time into the press. Manually add a lubed bullet, seat, and crimp. I normally go 50-100 rounds per sitting for the final load. 2-300 for the first pass.
The dillon equipment and company are great but you can load on anything. especially if your only going after 100 rounds a sitting.

I would pick up the Sierra book. Its actually more of a binder(it lays flat which is nice). There is a nice section in the front that has how to then the back has all the load data. I would definitely check out youtube for a good overview. And when your ready make a checklist that you put the rounds through. I have kids so my thing is I set up to do alot of any one thing at a time so if I have to leave I wont forget where Im at. Currently in the middle of first pass with 223 (10,000 rounds im looking to size/deprime/trim/clean) so when I stop I know next ttime I get at it Im still working on the same thing. After that I will switch to 9mm and load 3-5000 rounds.

What do you need to know? I dont load for benchrest I load to whats accurate enough for me.

Focus on cleaning and case prep to start once you got a few hundred cases prepped and ready you will be able to make a test box. which you will have to take to the range and run. you will look for the 2 most accurate powder weights. Come back and make another box with smaller increments between those 2.

If you want to get crazy accurate I would start with measuring chamber of rifle and setting the neck a 3-5 thousandths back from that so that the round will chamber and not stick. then measure the lands and set the bullet to just barely kiss them or a little back from there. Then do the ladder box(test box with powder increments). I have the stuff to do that but live in NJ so I only have 300 yards to shoot so I never needed to get more accurate then a simple ladder box and sammi standards

[Greg Parrish]

Right now, the cost savings is not there in my opinion unless you are shooting something like 1,000 rounds a month. The cost of equipment and components has risen to the point that it's hard to justify based on cost savings. Also, as mentioned above, finding powder and primers is still difficult 2 years after CoVid started. I would suggest you try to get your hands on the appropriate primers and a pound or two of possible powders before buying any other equipment. I haven't looked in a while so maybe it's gotten easier to find, but would suck to buy all the equipment and then not be able to get any of the needed components.

As far as an entry level equipment package that can handle 30-06 and stays under your $500 budget, this is a nice press (I have one): https://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/product/productId/14706
You would still need a set of dies to go with that kit. Unless you have a source of new, ready to load brass, you would also need the associated equipment like brass cleaning, depriming, etc.

The Dillon is also showing in stock with the .30-06 die option, but you'd need to grab the other items missing like scale, powder trickle, deburring tools, etc. https://www.dillonprecision.com/rl-550c-reloader_8_1_23594.html

Can't go wrong with Redding and Dillon presses in my opinion. Good luck whichever way you go!

[Keegan Shields]

I agree with the Dillon RL550 recommendations if your primary goal is to load rifle ammo. I use a 650 to load volume 9mm and 300 blk. But for lower volumes and long action cartridges, I would consider using the 550.

If you are looking for something cheaper, consider a turret style press (Redding T7, Lyman All American 8) or even a quality single stage O press (RCBS, Lyman, Hornady)

Remember that there are some of other items to buy (good powder scale/dispenser, dies, case length gauges etc.) I’ve not reloaded for an M1 but have read there are some unique considerations when loading 30-06 for a Garand. Bent rods come to mind.

[Monte Milanuk]

Had a nice long reply queued up last night, and then the forum software timed out when I went to post. :mad:

In addition to the reloading manuals that have pretty good tutorial sections (the Lyman manual is pretty good, but none of them are really 'bad') check out a book called 'The ABCs of Reloading' (available on Amazon, in either paper or Kindle format). I have a little bit of a hard time saying that, because the way those books 'teach' loading for metallic rifle cartridges, and the way *I* load for precision long-range rifle competition, tend to diverge a wee bit ;)

The 550 (or any progressive, really) wouldn't be my first choice for any long action cartridge. Yes, it can do the job - and I've used it for such. It's definitely not as comfortable clearance-wise as it is with handgun and short-action calibers. Then you get into the mess with trying to use a powder thrower for large-ish rifle charges, and 'ball' powder (which has it's own quirks). Again, yes, it can work just fine - just not ideal. Might be borrowing more trouble than you really want though. Turret presses get you part of the way there, but honestly, having started with one a couple decades ago... the juice ain't worth the squeeze, as they say, in my opinion. Get a decent O-frame single stage press. Not the smaller end (RCBS Partner), but it doesn't have to be a monster (Redding Ultra Mag) either. I use a Forster Co-Ax, but a Lee Classic Cast would work just fine.

Do yourself a huge favor, and get a good (i.e. expensive) set of digital calipers if you don't already have 'em. Even the cheap 'house' brand ones are better than nothing (usually). Strictly speaking, I suppose a person could get away without using them at all (bad idea) but where they really come in handy is troubleshooting, and especially in conjunction with a decent comparator gauge like the Hornady. Again, not 100% necessary, but I wouldn't load without it (or something similar in function.

[Ole Anderson]

Haven't hunted or even shot my 30-06 Remington BDL in decades. Initially I was interested in reloading on a budget so I just used a Lee reloading kit that apparently didn't fully resize the case. Lent some ammo to a fellow hunter while on a Wyoming antelope hunt. Yep, got one of my cartridges stuck in his gun. Fortunately others more knowledgeable than myself were able to push the cartridge back out using a cleaning rod and a (yikes) hammer. Learned a good lesson right there.

[Jack Frederick]

It has been years since I’ve reloaded, but just last week was looking through my dies, 45acp, 45 LC, 38/357, 222, 223, 22-250, 30-30, 25-06, 308, 30-06 and assorted gear. I shot hi-power for a short time and to get serious about it, well, it was just to much time and money for the ammo. I kinda smiled when I see you are going from the 03-A3, a great rifle, to the Garand, another great. I had a NM Garand. I would suggest that you stick with the Springfield. In my experience semi-autos lead to mass increases in ammo consumption. Having to crank that bolt handle slows down the consumption and if round on target is the goal, it isn’t the worst thing. I ended up dropping the hi-power stuff and got into shooting small bore (Anschutz Super Match) and air rifle. Good luck on your reloading adventure.

[Alex Zeller]

Others who are still reloading can better answer this but when I was doing it buying powder was kind of an issue. Not so much buying it but shipping it. If you can't guess it has special shipping requirements. I believe there is (or maybe it's changed) a flat Hazmat fee so you want to buy in bulk or buy it local if you have a gun shop that sells it. But there's limitations on how much you can ship in one package. Don't quote me on this (USE A PROPER CHART) but 1 pound of powder can do less than 150 rounds of 30-06. If you are just shooting occasionally that's a lot of ammo. But, if you want to go to the range once a week and shoot 100 rounds you're going to want to buy in larger quantities. Also, with COVID and other issues, you are going to want to have plenty on hand so you aren't struggling to find the same powder you were using.

To me once I decide on a powder I like I stick with it. As others have said each type of powder has it's own little quirks when it comes to reloading so once you know how the one you have chosen works with your reloader so changing powders just adds to the learning curve. Once you go down the reloading path you are going to want to look into reloading other calibers you have. The press is the biggest expense so buying extra dies to do other calibers just kind of makes sense. If you do you'll you're very likely going to be buying different powders. That leads back to what I was saying about shipping vs finding a local shop to buy from.

[Greg Parrish]

Biggest problem during covid has been finding powder and primers in stock. Second biggest is quantity limits of 1 box primers and limit jugs powder. Makes the shipping and hazmat fee hurt even worse. May be better now as I quit looking sometime last year.

[Monte Milanuk]

Others who are still reloading can better answer this but when I was doing it buying powder was kind of an issue. Not so much buying it but shipping it. If you can't guess it has special shipping requirements. I believe there is (or maybe it's changed) a flat Hazmat fee so you want to buy in bulk or buy it local if you have a gun shop that sells it. But there's limitations on how much you can ship in one package.

There is a max amount for the flat hazmat fee, but you've got to be ordering some serious quantities (as far as individual use for small arms cartridges) to come anywhere maxing that out. I don't recall the exact number, but I seem to recall it was somewhere north of 50 lbs. When I was shooting *seriously* I probably went through 20-30 lbs per year through a .308 Win.


Don't quote me on this (USE A PROPER CHART) but 1 pound of powder can do less than 150 rounds of 30-06.

One pound of powder (16 ounces) equals 7000 grains. If you figure an average .30-06 powder charge is around 50 grains, the math works out to 140 rounds, not counting any spillage, etc.


If you are just shooting occasionally that's a lot of ammo. But, if you want to go to the range once a week and shoot 100 rounds you're going to want to buy in larger quantities. Also, with COVID and other issues, you are going to want to have plenty on hand so you aren't struggling to find the same powder you were using.

To me once I decide on a powder I like I stick with it. As others have said each type of powder has it's own little quirks when it comes to reloading so once you know how the one you have chosen works with your reloader so changing powders just adds to the learning curve.

Just to make things more fun / interesting, when you find that special snowflake / unicorn load, using brand X powder Y... and you go back to the store to pick up another one pound bottle, or order an eight pound jug to keep you busy for a while... it's probably not going to be the same lot # as what you had before. How much that matters... kinda depends on what your expectations are ;)

[Jerry Bruette]

Just to make things more fun / interesting, when you find that special snowflake / unicorn load, using brand X powder Y... and you go back to the store to pick up another one pound bottle, or order an eight pound jug to keep you busy for a while... it's probably not going to be the same lot # as what you had before. How much that matters... kinda depends on what your expectations are ;)

Or how close you are to a maximum load. I always thought working up a unicorn load was the fun part of hand loading. Starting groups that sometimes looked more like a shot pattern and ending up with one ragged hole is very satisfying..

[Michael Schuch]

I have been reloading everything on my Dillon 650XL for 30+ years (.380, 9mm, .45acp, .44mag, .50ae, .30 carbine, .223, 6.5x55, .308, 30-06, 8x57) and it has always done EVERYTHING I ever needed for a reloading press. The ammo it produces is as accurate as any that I have ever loaded on a single stage press but at a greatly faster rate. It was a big investment initially but quite cheap when amortized over 30+ years. The Dillon 750xl is the replacement for the 650xl, both are pretty equivalent and I would grab a good deal on either if I came across one. If you are buying new the 750xl is the only choice and an excellent choice. The Dillon 550XL is also a very good press to but is only has 4 stations instead of 5 stations and it is not auto indexing. The 550 is still a solid productive progressive press.

In the $500 price range to get started a Single stage or turret press is what you will be looking at. A good progressive press costs many times your budget.

For single stage presses I have a RCBS Rockchucker that barely gets used because of the utility of the Dillon 650. The RCBS Rockchucker is a great single stage press and a great way to start.

I think the best bang for buck in a single stage press in a Lee Classic Cast press. Well designed, incredibly strong, heavy and made out of cast iron. I would have bought a Lee Classic Cast press if I hadn't stumbled upon a great deal on my Rockchucker. There are other single stage presses that are also very good but they really aren't any better than the Lee Classic Cast even though they cost much more money. The Lee breach lock press with quick change die collars sounds really neat but a lot of people have complained about used primers not being handled well by this aluminum cast press (I would not buy one). There are some cool looking Forester, RCBS and Franklin presses that deviate from the classic O ring press design... I don't think they are worth the extra money (just my opinion and I haven't ever used any of them).

A turret press is another option which is supposed to be a little faster than a single stage but quite a bit below a progressive when it come to production volume. I have never used one so I really can't give any meaningful advice about them.

I have not found any noticeable difference between the major brands of dies. Lee, RCBS, Lyman, Hornady, Redding and Dillon all make very good dies. I have not found an appreciable difference between any of the brands... with two exceptions: The Dillon .223 and .308 carbide resizing dies are worth the extra money for a progressive press (for a single stage press they are not worth the extra money in my opinion). I use Lee collet crimp dies for pretty much every cartridge I reload. (Lee is usually considered the bargain equipment because of their lower price but SOME of their equipment is very good which makes it a great value). I personally would never buy a Lee progressive press.

Reloading kits that bundle the press with all the other equipment to get you started reload pretty much always bundle sub-par presses with sub-parr accessories. A good press will last a life time and the presses mentioned above are good presses but the other equipment in the beginners kits almost always get replaced within 6 months to a year after purchase. When you don't know what equipment you need and where to spend money on good equipment I guess the kits are a good way to get your feet wet but when you gain experience they are pretty much a waste of money.

A basic (single stage) kit to get started:
A good reloading book - Lyman reloading manual is the defacto standard and will give you everything you need to get started.
A good press
A set of reloading dies for each cartridge
A shell holder for each cartridge family. Most reloading dies do not come with a shell holder. Progressive presses will need a special holder unique to the press. Most single stage shell holders are standardized.
A lube pad and lube - RCBS is kind of a standard but others work just as well.
A powder scale (buy a digital scale)
A powder measure to dispense the powder into the cases
A decent set of calipers
Someway to clean the dirty brass: vibratory tumbler, rotary tumbler or ultrasonic cleaner are the usual choices.
(You can get away with a case go-no gauge for each caliber but they are really nice to have when you are new and don't know if your ammo is in spec).

If you go for a single stage press make yourself a few nice reloading blocks (should not be a problem for even a beginner woodworker).

After you are setup and producing ammo there are some things that will be really nice to add when you can:
Case trimmer.
A case prep center.
Plastic ammo boxes. I use the cheap ones that hold 50 rounds to organize all of my reloaded ammo. Much nicer than carrying it around loose in a bucket or ammo can.
Some sort of hand primer if you went with a single stage press (most single stage loaders I know find the single stage press built in primers usable but slow and cumbersome)
... and the list of possible accessories seems almost endless.


I tried to give you a complete list but I am sure I forgot some things. I will update my posts when I remember something or another poster points out an oversite of mine.


I have never used ANY of this gear but this is another interesting turret press kit that I would research as a possible starting kit: https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101962221?pid=544156

P.S. I am a big fan of both the 03A3 and Garand! I also have a soft spot for the Swedish Mausers when it come to mil surplus rifles.

Edit: The RCBS Rockchucker starter kit looks like a pretty decent kit. I find the balance scales cumbersome and greatly prefer a digital scale. The powder measure is a quality one but it does not appear to come with the bench mount bracket for the powder measure. I don't know if the Speer reloading manual lists loads for all common bullets or just the ones that Speer manufactures. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/1023389781?pid=345426

If you add up all the pieces separately it does look like the RCBS Rock Chucker kit is worth the money.

474834

I still like the Lee classic cast but I do not see a Lee starting kit with the classic cast press... only their smaller presses that I would recommend staying away from.

This Lyman Turret press starting kit looks interesting although I have not used any of this equipment so I can't personally recommend it. https://www.midwayusa.com/product/101962221?pid=544156

I often frequent and post on TheHighRoad.com but would not recommend the site to the un-initiated as there is so much noise from all sorts that it would be VERY hard to filter all the chatter down to just the good advice.

[George Yetka]

Or how close you are to a maximum load. I always thought working up a unicorn load was the fun part of hand loading. Starting groups that sometimes looked more like a shot pattern and ending up with one ragged hole is very satisfying..


I used to shoot 90% bolt action. But with limited range and a good rifle in NJ it was getting boring. My range has 300 yds(closer to 350 if you push target back as far as possible). But got a new shooting buddy who asked why I was doing it and introduced me to nicer pistols. Reloading has become less about precision and more about what runs the best for me.

I would painstakingly make up perfect cases(no mixed headstamps). Followed by hand priming and used and auto trickler to drop each load. Then went to the range and shot half a box of loads. and went back to develop further..
Now I go and dump 500 rounds at steel and love it.

[Don Morris]

Thanks for the replies people! Special Thanks to Michael S. for such a detailed and comprehensive response...just what I had hoped to get but didn't expect it. Extremely grateful for all the replies with helpful info. Now to copy it, digest it, get the book and read it until all the questions and not well understood issues are understood. That may take me a few minutes (LOL).

I never expected this much support. I am so impressed with Sawmillcreek.org members

V/r

Don M

[Greg Parrish]

I think everyone gave great advice, but will go on record one more time and suggest you look around to see if you can get your hands on primers and powder before buying anything beyond the book. I haven't tried buying any in a year or more but am guessing it may still be difficult to come by. Good luck in the new venture!!


Thanks for the replies people! Special Thanks to Michael S. for such a detailed and comprehensive response...just what I had hoped to get but didn't expect it. Extremely grateful for all the replies with helpful info. Now to copy it, digest it, get the book and read it until all the questions and not well understood issues are understood. That may take me a few minutes (LOL).

I never expected this much support. I am so impressed with Sawmillcreek.org members

V/r

Don M

[Don Coffman]

Don,
Another reloader here, for near 50-years. I load 9mm, 9x23, 38Super, 38Spec, 357M, 44M, 45ACP, 223, 243, 25-06, & your favorite 30-06. I still use the same RCBS Rock Chucker single stage press I started with in 1975. It works perfectly for my needs, mass production isn't. As all have noted primers are the issue now, but for the '06 large rifle primers aren't that difficult to acquire. Start today saving your brass.
While you are deciding on the mechanical equipment also focus on the ingredients; grab the components (assuming you have a good reloading manual) it will provide several proven loads that you try.
As all have indicated ask a specific question in the open here on the forum or private message - you'll get plenty of help.

[Rollie Meyers]

Don, I have never reloaded for shotgun but have hunted with them a bit.

I shot rifle bench rest competition using a 6mm Ruger bolt action , hunted elk with a Reminton BDL 30-06, a custom built 338-06 and a custom built 7mm-06 (284 Remington IIRC). I hand loaded for all the rifles, but it's been 20 years since I reloaded. I'd recommend you find someone locally who is a skilled reloader to teach you how to reload rifles. Reloading for rifles I suspect is a totally different beast. Excessive pressures become a whole lot more important and dangerous. For example, once while reloading for hunting loads for the 30-06 using a proven, often personally used load in that rifle, I began to experience evidence of excessive pressures in the form of a slightly harder opening bolt on the rifle and measured unusual, fired case expansion. The cause? A new can of powder from the same manufacture was suddenly turning problems up across the country as they had switched types of cellulose used in the powder. Tolerances become much more important IMO in rifles than in shotguns, I suspect.

I have shot pistol silhouette using a Ruger Mark II 22 caliber and hand loaded for 44 mag.

With rifles, a multistage reloading press isn't necessary IMO. With a shotgun or a pistol, a multistage press would be advantageous. I used an RCBS Rock Chucker press and RCBS dies.

I used RCBS reloading equipment exclusively to support the local manufacturing plant. For target shooting I used Speer bullets as they are locally manufactured, and I could buy them in bulk from a local gun shop. For hunting I used Hornady and Nosler bullets.

RCBS is not manufactured in HorribleVille anymore?

[Maurice Mcmurry]

I have not been a shooter since BB gun days and I have not hunted for over 40 years. I still have my guns. Our town is home to Midway USA. My brother in law works there. Larry Potterfields' business has really grown. His youTubes are fun because you get to see inside one of his shops. Check out his reloading supplies there are 5945 products.

Whoops there is my BB gun right by the back door. I guess I am still a shooter.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

RCBS is not manufactured in HorribleVille anymore?

Speer bullets, RCBS primers and some other products were made locally here in Lewiston. Omak was headquartered here, IIRC. It was the 2nd or 3rd largest employer in town at one time. I am not sure about it now as it's been sold and is owned by another outdoor equipment company.

It appears that the reloading presses and dies were made in Oroville at one time. Again, I am not sure about it now.