Blade lubricant post-cleaning?

[Jon Endres]

I have a stack of saw blades that I'm going to clean up, generally accepted practice is Simple Green or washing soda, scrub clean, followed by a thorough drying and some kind of blade lubricant/rust protectant. I could use WD-40 but contrary to myth, it's not a lubricant. I have Boeshield T9 but I'm not sure if it's appropriate to apply to saw blades (I use it on my cast iron tables and planer bed). Also see Bostik BladeCote (DriCote?) and Quality Aerosols' "Slick Kote" products available. Any particular preferences or advice here? I've never really tried cleaning blades, I've always sent them out for sharpening and the sharpening service cleans them.

[Dave Sweeney]

Jon Endres said, " generally accepted practice is Simple Green or washing soda, scrub clean, followed by a thorough drying".

Your above method is basically the way I've cleaned my blades forever. The drying part is critical as any moisture left on the blade can promote rust. As long as the scrub clean part is removing all the accumulated crud you should be good to go.

[Doug Garson]

I use the same method, Simple Green, nylon or brass brush then rinse with hot water and dry with a towel and spray with Blade cote. works for me, never any rust. Hot water helps it dry faster.

[Kevin Jenness]

I used to use DryCote, now known as BladeCote. It seemed to make cleaning a bit easier but didn't really prevent schmutz buildup. Now I just dry the blade and call it good. I do clean cutters between sharpenings as pitch buildup can affect performance and the associated heat accelerates dulling.

[Robert Hayward]

I realize most here recommend Simple Green but you need to give Krud Kutter a try. I get much better and quicker results with KK. KK is also an excellent lubricant for your diamond sharpening stones.

[Richard Coers]

I bet I haven't cleaned a blade in 40 years. Probably when carbide blades came into common use. What are you cutting that your blades are bad?

[Frank Pratt]

I bet I haven't cleaned a blade in 40 years. Probably when carbide blades came into common use. What are you cutting that your blades are bad?

Resins (all woods have them) in the wood you cut will build up on the carbide teeth & create more friction and heat. Cleaning that stuff off makes a real difference. Try it. You'll like it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

To dry blades, put them in a 250 degree oven for ten minutes. Use a pot holder to remove them, as they are HOT!. I spray my blades with some "GULF WAX' disolved in oderless mineral spirits. Let it dry, then wipe off excess.

[Randall J Cox]

Simple green soak, scrub with nylon brush, dry, resume cutting wood. Randy

[Jon Endres]

I bet I haven't cleaned a blade in 40 years. Probably when carbide blades came into common use. What are you cutting that your blades are bad?

I don't have a photo but it's buildup from cutting a fair amount of softwoods on my miter saw. I can no longer clearly see the edge of the teeth to line up a cut so I know it's overdue. I do cut a fair amount of pine & plywood on my table saw but it's not as bad. The more it builds up, the more the blade heats up, then the crud bakes on. I swapped out the dirty 80-tooth miter saw blade with a clean sharp 80-tooth blade right after I posted this thread and the cut quality, ease of cutting and speed of cut were like night and day difference.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Which Simple Green are you using?
There was a very long debate concerning the original SG formula and the carbide process. Search this site for "original simple green bad for carbide". In short, their (SG) website cautioned the use of the original because it could affect the brazing process of the carbide chips. I don't want to start another debate. The new biodegradeable SG formula is fine to use. Just don't use the good original formula.

A friend of mine once said with Simple Green and Brakleen, you can dissolve anything in the world. They are both super good and caustic cleaners.....

[Frank Pratt]

I've read a few times about being careful with the chemicals used to clean blades. Mainly the brazing is damaged when soaking the blade for a period of time in certain cleaners.

[Doug Garson]

Yeah, I can't imagine a 5 min soaking in Simple Green could affect the brazing.

[Joe O'Leary]

I agree that anything you put on today’s carbide blades will be gone once it starts cutting from the tips. However for the blade body try fluid film from Eureka chemical company. I love the stuff for a lot of things it’s great corrosion inhibitor.

[Dave Sabo]

I bet I haven't cleaned a blade in 40 years. Probably when carbide blades came into common use. What are you cutting that your blades are bad?

blades (even carbide ones) get dirty from a variety of material. Pine (heart pine is even worse), fir, foamboard, lexan , pvc pipe, some melamines and laminates, as well as pre finished ply can gum up a blade. Azek trim will also do it.

[Jack Frederick]

I wait until my wife is out of the house for a while and run them through the dishwasher. I do have to make sure they are back out in the shop before she gets home. Very very infrequently done, but it works really well.

[Jim Allen]

I've been using OxyClean for many years, put the blade in a plastic oil drain pan, sprinkle OC on the teeth, then add ~9 oz of HOT water. Once it's cool enough to not get burnt scrub the teeth with a brass brush, rinse in hot water and dry, no lubricant, never any rust on the blades.