Drill Press Project

[Mike Goetzke]

I have an old belt drive floor standing drill press that failed and found a DP head that I’d like to put on the column. Problem is the column of the floor standing DP is 2.9” and the head is 3.1”. Anyway to make this work?

[Lee Schierer]

From your dimensions you need to add 0.1" to each side of your tube. Purchase some 0.050" shim stock and put two wraps around the tube.

[Charles Taylor]

What failed on the older press? Anything that can be taken off the newer one to replace the failed part(s) of the older one?

[Mike Goetzke]

What failed on the older press? Anything that can be taken off the newer one to replace the failed part(s) of the older one?

The DP head is refurbished Nova Viking from Teknatool. May be pre-mature on this because I have yet to get a price quote on it.

[Charles Taylor]

The DP head is refurbished Nova Viking from Teknatool. May be pre-mature on this because I have yet to get a price quote on it.


Ah. Cannibalization is definitely not an option. Wish I had an easy answer to your question, but unfortunately I don't.

[glenn bradley]

Franken-press Lives!!! I'm with Lee on the shim stock. You will want the shim stock to be wide enough to be present over the entire contact area between head and column. That is if the column makes contact 2-1/2" deep into the head you do not want a 3/4" strip of shim stock around one section.

[Malcolm McLeod]

From your dimensions you need to add 0.1" to each side of your tube. Purchase some 0.050" shim stock and put two wraps around the tube.

Good idea for Mr. Goetzke^^.

For the sake of speculation, I'd assume the head has some tolerance in what size post it will clamp onto ... could it clamp on the smaller post as-is? The 0.1" per side might be too much for the post clamps I've seen, but worth an eyeball.

0.050" Steel shim stock is a bit too stiff to hand bend smoothly to the column's 3.1"D - IMHO. Brass might be a better choice if you go this route?

Or, have a sheet metal shop roll a piece of 12ga (0.105")* to the proper diameter. It might be easier to install this single layer in the head and drop them together on the post?

*- 13ga is 0.090", but probably not as common as 12ga.

[Mike Goetzke]

Good idea for Mr. Goetzke^^.

For the sake of speculation, I'd assume the head has some tolerance in what size post it will clamp onto ... could it clamp on the smaller post as-is? The 0.1" per side might be too much for the post clamps I've seen, but worth an eyeball.

0.050" Steel shim stock is a bit too stiff to hand bend smoothly to the column's 3.1"D - IMHO. Brass might be a better choice if you go this route?

Or, have a sheet metal shop roll a piece of 12ga (0.105")* to the proper diameter. It might be easier to install this single layer in the head and drop them together on the post?

*- 13ga is 0.090", but probably not as common as 12ga.

I was almost wondering too even with the difference in fit if you just tightened the head mounting bolts well if that would be enough to prevent it from moving?

[Mike Goetzke]

I got the quote for the DP head and it's about $500 to my door. Super tempting.

(I did find a supplier with a steel tube with 2.87ID and 3.00OD (my need is 3.07" OD and 2.88"ID.)

[Frank Pratt]

I needed some shim stock for my router lift because the motor was just a little smaller than the clamp body. I found some of the correct thickness on Amazon that just happened to be the exact right size. It was less than $10, probably closer to $5.

[Mike Goetzke]

I needed some shim stock for my router lift because the motor was just a little smaller than the clamp body. I found some of the correct thickness on Amazon that just happened to be the exact right size. It was less than $10, probably closer to $5.

I think I may make a go for it. I found the tube that gets me within 0.070" on the OD and maybe shim stock for the final amount.

Thanks for all the help!

[Bruce Wrenn]

Another option is to have someone "spray weld" the column, tten turn to correct size on the lathe

[Mike Goetzke]

Another option is to have someone "spray weld" the column, tten turn to correct size on the lathe
You know I did find another tube with the correct ID and 3-1/8” OD. So wonder is a machine shop could turn the OD down to 3.07”. (I’m not a welder but have one if that helps)

[Brian Holcombe]

Probably easier to have the head bored out.

[Jim Becker]

It seems to me that the easiest approach to this is what has been mentioned..very lightly shimming in the recess as long as the top of the column bottoms out on something inside the drill head. You just need to make it secure so it stays "in plane" in use and getting a snug slip-fit followed by securing, maybe with some set screws, will do the trick. I could be wrong, but the KISS method could be a great approach here.

[Frank Pratt]

Another option is to have someone "spray weld" the column, tten turn to correct size on the lathe

$$$$ Might as well just buy the right parts. Easier, cheaper, better.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Once when I needed shim stock, I went to a local machine shop and they just gave me some shim stock.

[Bruce Wrenn]

You know I did find another tube with the correct ID and 3-1/8” OD. So wonder is a machine shop could turn the OD down to 3.07”. (I’m not a welder but have one if that helps)


A place that rebuilds truck drive shafts would have a lathe capable of doing this. Fleet Pride is one name that comes to mind. As boring head out, both the base and table will need to be bored. You never explained exactly what happened to the old head.

[Roger Feeley]

The standard thickness of a beverage can is 0.097.

[Mike Goetzke]

It seems to me that the easiest approach to this is what has been mentioned..very lightly shimming in the recess as long as the top of the column bottoms out on something inside the drill head. You just need to make it secure so it stays "in plane" in use and getting a snug slip-fit followed by securing, maybe with some set screws, will do the trick. I could be wrong, but the KISS method could be a great approach here.

My current DP has about 0.010"-0.015" diametrical clearance. My old DP and the new head use two set screws to secure the head. The depth the column goes into the head until it bottoms out looks to be about 5".

This is the drill head (for sizing - the post is 3"):

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[Mike Goetzke]

The standard thickness of a beverage can is 0.097.

OMG - I owe you a beer! (but only if I can keep the can)

But wait a minute, you may be off a decimal?

[Mike Goetzke]

UPDATE:


While waiting for Nova to go through their quality checks of the drill head I have still been looking at lead times for the Voyager and they seem to have lessened. And today I received an email from Nova that they are almost done with the quality checks on the drill head.


So now I need to make a decision - purchase the Viking drill head and mod my current DP or hold off another 3 months and wait for the Voyager. Any help appreciated.


Thanks
Mike

[Roger Feeley]

OMG - I owe you a beer! (but only if I can keep the can)

But wait a minute, you may be off a decimal?

My bad. Number was correct. Forgot to say mm not niches.

[Jim Becker]

What other advantages do you see you will get if you wait for the Voyager? That's the answer to your question and it doesn't impact things you need to do now.

[Mike Goetzke]

What other advantages do you see you will get if you wait for the Voyager? That's the answer to your question and it doesn't impact things you need to do now.

Guess I will wait for the Voyager. It's the one I really want and looking over the Voyager/Viking manuals and videos there are quite a few user interface advantages for the Voyager besides the 2xpower, longer stroke, greater depth, and being floor standing.

Thanks for everyone's help!

[Bill Dufour]

How tall are you? You could make a hollow or solid plug that fits inside the existing tube and has a short section of the correct diameter above. raises the head 8-12 inches.
BillD

[Derek Cohen]

I would wait for the Voyager. A few months go by quickly. Disappointment last much longer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Bruce Wrenn]

Is the tube seamless? If not, there is a ridge on the inside. If your drill head is like most, it only bears at top and bottom. If that's the case, you could have a couple rings made, instead of a complete tube.

[Ronald Blue]

Did you look at exhaust pipe adapters? 3" od to 3" id. It might not be sufficient but it has about a 1/16" (.0625) wall thickness. Or just a short piece of 3" id exhaust pipe. Cut a split down one side.

[Mike Goetzke]

Thanks for all the help. Changed my mind again and I received the Viking drill head couple days ago. I just ended up purchasing a tube and found a source to turn to the dimensions required. Should receive the sleeve next week. The sleeve was not as expensive as I had originally thought. Can't wait to put this thing together. (me being me - I will most likely purchase a Voyager down the road as they become more available (and don't include big handling charges) and sell this Viking or give it to my son.)

Mike

[Tom M King]

https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-3533-8242-3-18-od-x-120-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx and have the end turned down, but I see you've already found a solution

I looked for 78mm steel tube, but none readily available.

[Mike Goetzke]

https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-3533-8242-3-18-od-x-120-wall-dom-steel-tube.aspx and have the end turned down, but I see you've already found a solution

I looked for 78mm steel tube, but none readily available.

Tom - thanks that’s the tube I bought!

[Alex Kapl]

Post pictures when you are done. Didn't even think of doing that. I gave up waiting for Viking and got Bosch PBD40 :)

[Mike Goetzke]

Post pictures when you are done.

Will do - I just cleaned up my current floor standing base. Should get my sleeve next week. Even though there should be a slight interference fit I'm thinking of tack welding the sleeve to the post for extra security.

Mike

[Mike Goetzke]

Post pictures when you are done. Didn't even think of doing that. I gave up waiting for Viking and got Bosch PBD40 :)

It was a long rough road for this "fun" project. I ordered the drill head at the end of February. Had to have it replaced because I discovered a couple cracks around one on the set screw mounting holes. Then the second one had a display assembly that was held on by the wires - not any fasteners. I was looking for a full refund but they happened to find another unit. So back went the 2nd and I received the third one this past Monday.

The assembly onto my old drill press post was easier than I thought and this unit is working well. Some of the excitement was gone due to the long wait but I have a chance to play with my new toy this weekend.

Mike

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