Jet 1642 EVS Lathe

[James Baldwin]

Hi, I'm watching two Jet 1642 EVS lathes on an auction site. School program shutting down. No accessories but I have plenty from my Jet 1246. Thoughts? Price? I don't normally do auctions but I just scored a Jet HVBS7MV metal cutting bandsaw. I bid on it figuring I'd get outbid. Won it for $290. In pretty good condition but supposedly had a bad coolant pump ($300). Turns out the pump was clogged around the shaft. Easy fix. Did involve a 600 mile round trip to pick it up but I needed a break and a saw upgrade. Jim

[Edward Weingarden]

I had a 1642 for about 15 years before I upgraded to a larger lathe. I think it's an excellent machine for it's size. Part of the price consideration will be based upon the size (HP) of the motor. Mine had the 1.5hp motor, but I think it was also made with a 2hp/220v motor. Do you have a 220v outlet in your shop if that's what's required? Age and condition will also be factors in determining an appropriate price. Not knowing any of those factors, I would guestimate that a private party may list one for around $1,200, plus/minus.

[Robert Henrickson]

I've had a 1642 (1.5 hp) for perhaps 15 years. When a used PM 3520 was available, I bought it but kept the Jet. Never did like the PM as well as the Jet on almost every count. Bought my 'last lathe' and sold the PM. I still have the 1642.

[James Tibbetts]

I have had mine for about 10 years with absolutely no complaints. It has the 2 hp/220 motor.
I honestly don't remember what I paid but I'm thinking it was about $900.
There are newer, fancier, bigger ones out there but this one does everything I ask with ease.
Even if it needs a little cleanup and paint go for it if it's in working order !!

[James Baldwin]

Looks like they're 1 1/2 HP models. One has a Nova chuck and turning tools the other one doesn't.I have several 220 volt plugs in my shop so that's not a problem. Jim

[Zachary Hoyt]

I was the back bidder on one last August in a school auction at $1500 or so, but that was the 2 hp version.

[Richard Coers]

I found a 1 1/2hp model locally for $1,000. I've also discovered over the decades that school machinery can either be fine, or complete junk. Depends on the instructor and what he permits students to do. I've seen enough junk I completely stay away from school auctions now.

[Paul Haus]

I have the Jet 1642EVR, 220v lathe for some time now. I also bought the 18" bed extension for it so I can turn up to 60" turnings. I did replace the power switch the other year, that's the only repairs I've done to it. If you do have switch problems, some disassemble them and try cleaning, I found a new one on Ebay for about $10 IIRC while the assembly was around $80-$100 direct from Jet.
It's done very well for me and I enjoy turning when I have the time to do it. Unless you have needs exceeding the capacity of the lathe, I think you'll like it.

[James Baldwin]

Update. Well I took a run at it and won it with a bid of $1085 plus $113.85 buyer's premium. It will involve an 800 mile round trip to pick it up but Hell I'm retired and it's to wet to roto-till the garden. It will be a major improvement over my Jet 1246. Jim

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Congrats!
That's a good price to pay! Enjoy your new toy. Um, I mean tool.

[Zachary Hoyt]

I hope you'll have a safe trip and that the lathe will be all you've hoped it to be.

[James Baldwin]

Well made the trip up on the 23rd and was back home on the 24th a 1000 miles round trip but it was worth it. Overnighted about an hour 1 1/2 way. Went on into Darby the next morning. Got there and we broke it down to load. Took about 20 minutes. It's in very good condition. Run just fine. Reassembled it today. Plugged it it in and it immediately tripped the GCFI plug. I'm going oh crap I've done something to it. So if all else fails read the instructions. I had read this in the manual but it didn't register. The lathe will not run through a GCFI plug so tomorrow I'll be changing some outlets out. A simple fix. I'm going to put in 20 amp outlets and replace what I suspect are 15 amp outlets. Jim

[Paul Haus]

Here's the info from the manual:
5.2 230-Volt Operation (Model JWL-1642EVS-2 only) A plug with a UL/CSA listing suitable for 230V operation (Figure D) must be connected to the power cord. Contact your local authorized JET service center or qualified electrician for proper procedures to install the plug. The lathe must comply with all local and national codes after the 230V plug is installed. The lathe with a 230V plug should only be connected to an outlet having the same configuration (Figure D). There is no adapter available nor should one be used with the 230V plug. IMPORTANT: In all cases (115 or 230 volts), make certain the receptacle in question is properly grounded. If you are not sure, have a registered electrician check the receptacle. Note: The JWL-1642EVS-2 lathe requires a 230-volt single-phase input. It is equipped with a power inverter, located between the power cord and the drive motor. The inverter takes the 230V 1-phase input from the power cord and converts it to the 230V 3-phase output required by the drive motor. A lightning strike or power surge may cause the inverter to fail. When lathe is not in use, disconnect power plug, or have a 3- or 4-pole disconnect installed on the power side. IMPORTANT: The JWL-1642EVS and JWL-1642EVS-2 Lathes cannot be run on a GFCI circuit.

This is all the info I had when I got mine and I used a 220v 220v circuit breaker along with 12 gauge wire and IIRC I used 30 amp outlets on it. It's run just fine and I've had it for many years that way. Good luck.

[James Baldwin]

Well I replaced the GCFI outlet with a 20 amp regular outlet and everything is all well. Runs really quiet and very smooth. I may become spoiled. Jim

[Dwight Rutherford]

I’m sure you are going to like your 1642. I’ve had mine since 2003, it gets used daily and has served me well. Enjoy!

[Kyle Iwamoto]

The GFCI outlet is there for a reason. It's for your safety and probably electrical code. It also could power outlets downstream that need to be protected.

If you are in a garage, try the overhead garage door opener outlet. If the receptacle is above a required height, it need not be GFCI. But, if it's a 15 amp don't swap the breaker for a 20. The breakers are to protect the wiring in the house, you could overheat the wires if you swap out the breaker to a higher setting.
Be safe.

[James Baldwin]

The shop is separate from the house and the previous owner wired it. I've since had to add some 220 volt outlets and upgrade some of the outlets to 20 amp. The only place that I really need a GCFI is an outlet by the door which can be used for power to the outside of the shop. It has 125 amp service so I'm not straining the system. Jim