Hand saws stop at 2/3 blade

[Richard Hutchings]

I have 2 saws that come to a hard stop well before the handle. What do you attribute this to? 1 is a tempered hardware store saw and the other is an old Disston rip saw that I sharpened but did not reset the teeth.

[Jim Koepke]

I have 2 saws that come to a hard stop well before the handle. What do you attribute this to? 1 is a tempered hardware store saw and the other is an old Disston rip saw that I sharpened but did not reset the teeth.

This could be related to what kind of wood you are sawing. Wet or dry - soft or hard.

Are the teeth evenly set over the full length of the plate? It the teeth are suddenly set wider it could experience this.

Are the saws stopping due to binding in the cut? This would be more likely considering one is a "tempered hardware store saw." With some woods this would be a common occurrence. When rip cutting it is commonly necessary to use wooden wedges in the cut. Happens to me all the time with soft woods like fir/pine.

Another cause could be the teeth need jointing. A tall tooth or two could cause a saw to stop.

[Richard Hutchings]

It isn't from binding. It's a really abrupt stop but easy to pull back. I guess I'll joint, refile and re-set the teeth on the Disston. I was thinking maybe it had something to do with technique since it happens on 2 of my saws. It doesn't happen on my LV back saws though.

[Prashun Patel]

Sure its not bent teeth?

[Richard Hutchings]

No I'm not. I think I need to give this saw the full treatment, hammer the set and re-set plus joint it and re-file it.

[chris carter]

I think it's technique. The same exact thing happens to me depending on how I'm sawing. For example, I'll often lay the board on the benchtop hanging off the edge held down by holdfasts and then saw with both hands in an overhand grip, saw pointing almost straight down. The saw will often want to stop about 3/4 of the way through. However, sawing this way is easier on my body, saves energy, protects some of my many chronic injuries, is overall faster, etc. So I accept it. If I clamp the board upright in a vise and just go at it one handed normal-style, then I can slam the handle into the wood if I don't stop it.

[Jim Koepke]

No I'm not. I think I need to give this saw the full treatment, hammer the set and re-set plus joint it and re-file it.

If you have a metal vise it is easier on the teeth to squeeze them between the jaws of a vise with a few sheets of paper folded over the saw's teeth.

jtk

[Dave Zellers]

It isn't from binding. It's a really abrupt stop but easy to pull back. I guess I'll joint, refile and re-set the teeth on the Disston. I was thinking maybe it had something to do with technique since it happens on 2 of my saws.

Your arm is fully extended. Move closer.


It doesn't happen on my LV back saws though.

There's the proof- shorter stroke.



No, I'm not serious. Unless it's a riddle. :D

[James Pallas]

Since it happens with two saws about the same I would be suspicious of technique or work positioning. An offset tooth or long tooth could cause it. Also can happen with heavier tooth saws in narrow work. If your hand drops as you cut a tooth can drop over the edge. Before you work on the saws try picking up on the handle a bit and take another full stroke. It happens sometimes to me when I use a low tooth count saw after not using one for a while. When you get use to using high tooth count backsaws a lot, as I do, it happens.
Jim

[Richard Hutchings]

Thanks for the tip

[steven c newman]

Is it at the same spot on the saw each time it stops? Mark that spot on the saw..then look at the teeth at the spot.....then fix that tooth...

A "Quick Fix".....a coarse sharpening stone....run it down from handle to toe...once on each side of the teeth, and once down the tips....a LIGHT swipe is all...then recheck the saw's cut. IF there is a "bad" tooth, you will feel it as you go by.