Bandsaw blade for resawing

[Tim Elett]

What is a good resaw blade? I have been using a 3 tpi 1/2 inch blade a wood mizer I believe, but it dulls fast, it seems to me. Are the carbide tip blades the way to go?
Using a powermatic 14 inch with rizer. I know that this is not the best saw for resawing, but it's what I have.

[Maurice Mcmurry]

3/4 inch is my minimum width for re-sawing anything greater than 4 inches. I like my carbide tipped blades.

[Kevin Jenness]

For that saw I would be looking at a 1/2" x 3 or 4 tpi bimetal blade like the Lenox Diemaster 2. Maybe it will tension a 3/4" blade. I use http://www.spectrumsupply.com/

[Zachary Hoyt]

Personally I would think that you're about right with the blade you have for that kind of saw. I tried a Diemaster 2 once but it took a much wider kerf, so with marginal power you'll have a harder time getting through, I imagine.

[Tim Elett]

It seems like when resawing a large blank,10 inch,the blades dull quickly, I use a wood slicer blade from Highland Woodworking for resawing kiln dried hardwood. That blade is amazing, but not too good for logs for very long.
I think I should be looking for a bigger chainsaw to cut the pith out of the center of big stuff ,less expensive than a bigger saw . Thanks

[Kevin Jenness]

Personally I would think that you're about right with the blade you have for that kind of saw. I tried a Diemaster 2 once but it took a much wider kerf, so with marginal power you'll have a harder time getting through, I imagine.

Lenox actually has a 4tpi hook blade with a .025" thick band, only slightly thicker than a Wood Slicer. A bimetal blade will stay sharp considerably longer. Worth a try anyway.

[tom lucas]

At first I tried a Wood Slicer, and then another popular brand that I don't recall the name of right now. Both of those cut great for a while, but not very long. Then I switched to Lennox bimetal diemaster. Much, much, much longer blade life. I would say the cut is not quite as smooth, but the wood slicer was a 3/4" and the Lennox is 1/2". So hard to compare. I'm sold on the Lennox bimetal. If you aren't cutting curves, and are mainly resawing, I'd get a 3/4". Just not sure your saw will tension that big of a blade.

[Prashun Patel]

I'd use a 3tpi not 4. Lower tooth count will be more efficient. More important to have a flat cut than a smooth cut here.

[David Walser]

Stumpy Nubs YouTube channel recently posted a video on the various types of bandsaw blades, their construction, durability, advantages, etc. It’s the best summary of this topic I’ve seen. Watch it so you can make an informed decision on what’s best for your situation.

IIRC, Stumpy uses a wide, carbide tipped, blade for ripping. However, that doesn’t mean you should, too. For ripping, he’s using a much larger saw than your 14” Powermatic. The goal of his video is to teach you how to select the right blade for a given task, using your saw. He’s not trying to sell a particular blade.

[Reed Gray]

Well you say resawing, are you cutting boards? My little saw, for cutting rounds, I have a Lennox bimetal diemaster blade, 1/2 inch and 3 tpi, and the thicker one, but don't know the numbers on it..... Cuts longer and straighter than any other blade. On my big saw, which cuts 16 high, I have a 1 1/4 Lennox bimetal blade with teeth about 3/4 inch apart. It is great for cutting slabs for bowls and platters. I am lucky to have a local bandsaw blade maker locally. When I first started, I asked about carbide tipped blades. His comment was that they are for cutting veneers. I did get one just to see, and it leaves a much cleaner surface, but like I was told, best for veneers. It didn't seem to last any longer than the bimetal blades, and the bimetal blades can be sharpened several times before they are toast. The tips on the carbide blade were so small, they could not be sharpened.

robo hippy

[Dave Mount]

Reed (or others), do you sharpen your own blades or have a shop do it? If the former, with what tools? Also, with the 1/2" blade, what do you consider the minimum turn radius when roughing green rounds? I've found the "nominal" cutting radius for blades is not the real world minimum, especially cutting thick green wood.

I've used a 3/8" wide kerf carbon steel blade up to now and am ready to give the bimetal a try based on recommendations from you and others. Was thinking the wider blade would be stouter and better able deal with little wobbles that sometimes happen if my chainsaw rough-out isn't dead flat on the bottom side. I have a 17" 2hp saw.

Best,

Dave

[Tim Elett]

Stumpy Nubs YouTube channel recently posted a video on the various types of bandsaw blades, their construction, durability, advantages, etc. It’s the best summary of this topic I’ve seen. Watch it so you can make an informed decision on what’s best for your situation.

IIRC, Stumpy uses a wide, carbide tipped, blade for ripping. However, that doesn’t mean you should, too. For ripping, he’s using a much larger saw than your 14” Powermatic. The goal of his video is to teach you how to select the right blade for a given task, using your saw. He’s not trying to sell a particular blade.
Thanks I will check out the site.

[Reed Gray]

I have it done by my saw sharpening service. The 3 tpi 1/2 inch blade and my big blade can be sharpened a number of times before they are worn out. I would want a needle file for the gullet. I have tried the 'spin the blade backwards, by hand, and keep one of the diamond hones on it while doing this. Never came close to what the saw shop could do.

I will have to check out the Stumpy Nubs video.

robo hippy

[Tim Elett]

I have it done by my saw sharpening service. The 3 tpi 1/2 inch blade and my big blade can be sharpened a number of times before they are worn out. I would want a needle file for the gullet. I have tried the 'spin the blade backwards, by hand, and keep one of the diamond hones on it while doing this. Never came close to what the saw shop could do.

I will have to check out the Stumpy Nubs video.

robo hippy
Do you know if they do send in orders? I have a few to sharpen. The local shop cannot sharpen bandsaw blades.

[Kevin Jenness]

Very few services find it profitable to sharpen bandsaw blades, probably because the ones they get in are thrashed and their cost is high relative to replacement. If you do find a good mail-in service I hope you will post it here.

I have sharpened quite a few blades using a Dremel with reasonable results, but it is tedious. Best to get a bimetal blade that doesn't need sharpening often.

[Tim Elett]

I agree ,but I like to reuse or at least recycle, I guess I'll try a Lennox blade and be more selective on what I saw,green wood seems to be the worst.

[Tim Elett]

Any one tried the Laguna Pro forse blades? I can get them local without shipping.

[Reed Gray]

I don't know if they do or not. I used to use an old shop, not sure if they even have internet, that is how old they are, and they don't call when things are done. Next time will be with Oregon Industrial Carbide, and they were referred to me by my blade maker. The blade maker told me that they were thinking about getting into it themselves, but hadn't yet. If you buy from some one that makes them, that would be best bet. One thing they have to be careful about is blades that have breaks in the back of the blade, which is where mind seem to go first. This usually happens from having the blade guides too high, which causes the blade to bend to the back side. If your blade is oscillating front and back, this is what has happened. Generally now that I know, I will remove the blade before it actually breaks. These can't be repaired.

robo hippy

[Tim Elett]

Thanks for the great help,I found a local store Oak Tree had the Laguna blades in stock,I am going to try a carbide tip they have.Kind of pricey for me but should stay sharp longer,and no shipping cost.

[Reed Gray]

I think some blades are designed to be used and then tossed when dull. They are generally low quality and just don't perform well as in keeping on track and drifting even if the saw is properly set up. That is why I use the bimetal blades. They do cost more, and are worth resharpening.

robo hippy

[Scott T Smith]

Laguna Resaw King's are the best resaw bands that I've used. My second choice is Lennox Trimaster's, but they have a slightly thicker kerf.